DIY: Stainless Steel Clutch Line
 

Well after some time I decided to change out my puny stock clutch line to a more efficient stainless steel line from Z1 Motorsports. There pretty cheap part. I think $29 bucks. Plus you need to pick up a bottle Motul RBF600 brake fluild to help the system operate to it's fullest. This mod is best to do if your changing out your Catalytic Converter (Cats) to HFC's or TP's. For they will need to be removed to to this install. I couldn't imagine them being done with them on the car. If you never have removed your Cats I suggest doing some good research first. They could be a pain. But I have been moved. Wasn't a big deal for me, but others have struggled.

14mm socket
Rachet Extension (12'' preferable)
Swivel
14mm wrench (2 works best)
10mm line wrench (standered wrench can work)
10mm socket
8mm wrench
Flathead screwdriver
Pliers


Here in the first pic you'll see the cross member brace that connects to my Test Pipes (TP). They actual connect to both sides of my TP's or Cats, whatever you might have. Plus there's two bolts that help hold the bracket in place to the underside of the transmission. There's four in all. All are 14mm. Use your rachet and socket with your wrench together to remove all. Place to the side. You'll also need to go ahead and unplug the O2 sensor for the driver side. You can see in the pic the passenger side is still hooked up. It can be left alone.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline005.jpg


My next two pics you can get a good picture of my TP's. You will need to remove the two 14mm nuts and bolts on the flange in the far left of the first pic using two 14mm wrenches works best for me. And in the second you will see the triangle shaped flange that connects to the maniflold. You will have to remove the three nuts and bolts here also. This is where your rachet, socket, extension, and swivel works best. There are actually two nuts and bolts and the third is just a nut due to there a set bolt already placed in the manifold flange. You can see the different one in the top right of the flange.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline002.jpghttp://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline003.jpg

Now below are some pics of my TP's removed along with the clutch lines. Look carefull at them. You will noticed the hard line on the inner side of the body, then the rubber line in the middle (has heat shield on it), and then another hard line that connects to the transmission.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline007.jpghttp://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline008.jpg
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline009.jpg

Ok. In the pic below (same as above) start to remove this hard line. Start with the silver bracet and black bolt the lays in the middle of the the line. Remove it with a 10mm socket. Then start to remove the hard line form the clutch slave cylinder (the brass colored fitting) using a 10mm line wrench or standard wrench. Just be carefull here for these fittings are usally over tighten from the manufacture and can be strip easly. Even though you will not be reusing this particular line and fittings back for it will not be needed. The new line deletes this part. It has a banjo fiittng that bolts directly to the clutch slave cylinder.

Also have a drip tray ready for just about all the fluid will leak out here. Also in the upper middle part of the pic you will see a pressure clip that will have to be pulled out using a flathead screw driver to pull out. The clip has a lip on that can be pried on. This clip can be tight. See the second pic for better look. The third pic is what you will end up with. Just let all the fluid drain out at this point. Mkae sure the cap is off the reservoir to allow for flow.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline009.jpghttp://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline016.jpg
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline011.jpg


Now were going to concentrate on the other end of the the clutch line. This can be tricky here. For it is a tight area to work in being the manifold flange is all in the way. These connection points also have a pressure plate here also. I found it easier to remove the pressure plate first with a flathead. And pull down on the line a litte but not to hard. Don't want to hurt anything. Normally I'd say leave the line in place untill you loosen the line. But there is hardly any room to turn a line wrench in there due to the manifold flange. And being likely over tighten from the manifacture you could easily strip it. I know for I did. I had to order another hard line. It was only $13. But doing it the way I'm describing and some patience you should be fine.

Back to removing. Refer to the second pic. Sorry it's blury. You will see the line pulled down a little. Use some pliers and grip the bigger part of the fitting just above the heat shield. It has two flat edges to grip. Careful of the heat shield for you will reuse it on the new line. Then use a 10mm wrench on the upper nut and losen. Remove line and then remove heat shield by cutting zip ties. The Z1 kit comes with new zip ties.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline007.jpg
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline013.jpg

Now take the new SS clutch line. Comes with a line, banjo bolt (what I call it), two copper washers, and zip ties. Now take the bigger part of the new line and attach it to the the hard line by the manifold flange. It only needs to be tighten to about 12lbs of torque. I just use my best judgement here. Good thing the Z1 line has a hex fitting (19mm) that makes it easier to connect to the hardline. Just reconnect same way you undid. Route the fittings back up into the shelf stub where you pulled the pressure plate from and reinstall it. This can be hard for you have to hold the line even as you press in the clip. I had to hold the line take a flathead screwdriver and pry between the clip and the manifold flage. Be carfull not to slip. Could bust your knuckles.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline017.jpg

Now slip the heat shield over the new line. Take the other end of the line (the banjo fitting), banjo bolt, and copper washers ( 2 of them). Use the copper washers on both sides of the banjo fitting and tighten to the clutch slave cylinder (brass fitting). Might have to route the line around to the inside the bleeder screw then tighten. You can see below. Also go ahead zip tie the heat shied tighter to the new line and cut off excess.

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...tchline019.jpg


Mkae sure everything is tight. Reinstall TP's. Now start to bleed the clutch. Fill the clutch resesvoir with the Motul brake fluid. It's the small cap to the right in the first pic below. Fill up to top. Put cap on. Start pumping clutch alot. You will have to use your hand at first. For once depressed it wont come back up. You also in the begining have to open the bleeder screw to get the fluid to flow down at first. This is where the 8mm wrench comes in. Seal off bleeder screw, pump clutch with hands more. It will take a bit. Keep going back to reservoir to always make sure it doesnt get to low and feel up with air and that your always reinstalling the cap. I feel this is easier than doing the brakes. A lot less fluid and lines. Just keep bleeding till all the old fluid is out and your sure the new fluid is coming threw. Now eventually you will feel the pressure build for it will be alot stiffer than stock. Even though the pressure will build and the clutch will rebound on it's own when you open the bleeder screw the clutch will stick to the floor and you will have to seal off the screw and pull the clutch back up last time. Ensuring the bleeder screw is sealed off pump the clutch some more and pressure will build. Top off the fluid one more last time. Sorry for no pics on this. But I do hope this helps alot.




Again I hope this helps and you guys like my write up. Sorry for any bad grammer. Now enjoy your stiffer feel clutch line. It's a big difference from stock. Combined with the fluid you should have to worry about the clutch sticking to the floor from hard launches and track days.

Any suggestions or questions and comments welcome. Write ups are usally big and easy to leave out some things for it's alot to do.

Is it absolutely necessary to remove the TP's or Cats?

good write up Chris.

The TP / HFC doesnt have to be removed. When mine was put it, we did not remove them. Just gotta be able to reach slightly behind them.

I assume you could leave them on. I wouldn't want to. I had trouble loosening the bolt up by the manifold on my car. So I had no choice in the manner. It's really easy to remove them. Cats could be harder but even when I removed mine it went well. But my car didn't have many miles on it at the time so I feel that made it easier to break loose the demon bolt everyone speaks of.
Thanks. And thanks again for the other day. Now where's my rep?:icon17:

you mean wheres my rep for giving you directions!!

Oh yea. Damn! I got yea. I wouldn't of found it without you.

Week later update. The clutch pedal feels alot better than ever. Great soild feel. Almost gives you confindence. Now if I could just get my softer clutch spring I'll be set.

How many bottles of brake fluid are needed for this line change?

Less than 1. The clutch reservoir is tiny. Even with flushing, it shouldnt take more than 1 bottle.

It looks like you have a gasket leak on your test pipes. Might want to put some RTV over the gaskets.

Why isn't this stickied?! This should DEFINITELY be stickied.

Heat shield
 

I recently ordered an Insulated S.S. from the Z Store.
http://www.thezstore.com/store/graph...arge212176.jpg
Link
Do you think I should do a heat shield over it anyway even though it's insulated? I would think it wouldn't hurt to put a heat shield on anyway, where did you get your heat shield from? Cheers!

I just reused the stock one. You can get a clutch line from Z1 for $29.
Z1 370z/G37 Stainless Steel Clutch Line

oh i had no idea the stock one already has a heat shield on it. In that case I'll just use the stock one over the insulated s.s. clutch line i got from the Z store. Thanks!

the material on the S.S. clutch line from Z1 depicted here is not heat shield, its merely a coating meant to prevent fraying of the S.S. braiding that could occur from vibration under heavy stresses of the track. The heat shield wrapped around the OEM clutch line is to protect the sub-standard material from the heat damage of close proximity of the manifolds. It can't hurt to reinstall the OEM shielding.. it will help protect the line from heat and any roadway debris that might be kicked up off the front tires.

Great write up - just what I was looking for. I'm planning to upgrade my 40th.

Thanks :driving:

faoideaujsfcksodfoisernfg ****! i think i may have ****** up my hardline. how hard was it to swap? i got everything off, but that stupid nut to the rubber line would not come off. i ended up sticking the stock line back on, and went to bleed the clutch. everytime the clutch is pressed, then returns, i hear a swoosh or squish sound like air is getting back into the lines somewhere

You'll have to go to Nissan to get another. Easy to replace after removing the inner plastic fender and tire. It's a right there. These fittings and nuts are definitely over tighten from the manufacture.

in stock? or ordered?

Most likely ordered. May take only two days most.

I have the one from the zstore for a few thousand miles without the heat shield so far it's holding up pretty good.

gah. guess im bending my own then!!!

edit: success! for anyone who strips the flare nut that goes from the hardline to the softline, go to your parts store and buy something like below. its a coated steel brake line with the following specs:

- 3/16 Inch Outside Diameter x 30 Inch Length
- SAE Inverted Flare/Metric M10 x 1.0 Thread

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0834&ppt=C0066

i simply cut the hardline off where the flare nut was, then used that to make a close to identical bent hardline from the driver side wheel well. you will need about 27 inches to mimic the OEM hardline, but the extra 3 inches wont hurt.

Just finished this DIY and let me say it was a huge pain in the a$$. First of all I decided to leave the HFC and bracket in place, if I were to do this again I would probably remove it. The pressure plate is hard to remove and install in such a tight space.

I also removed and drilled out the restrictor in the fender well to improve flow. I found that when I had the line completely open, no fluid wanted to flow out. But when I was installing the SS line it decided to drip onto my head.

Another tip, the fitting by the banjo bolt has a slight bend to it and I think I had mine the wrong way which made it extremely difficult to get lined up.

Lastly I am probably going to have to replace the CMC and CSC (might as well do clutch and flywheel) because I cannot seem to build full pressure in the pedal. I have had this problem for a while now

Might tackle this tomorrow! Great write-up

Bump, any chance for pics? I know they were up a couple days ago, was gonna start this tomorrow and they're down :eekdance:

Just to update: DIY was great even without pictures, and helped a lot, although I wouldn't recommend the listed bleeding procedure. I tried to manually bleed the car for about 4 hours, but literally nothing was able to dislodge the air bubble that had gotten trapped in the master cylinder(I could hear it.) I used every technique out there, following instructions to a T, but gravity/depressing the pedal simply did not generate enough force to move the air down the line. I could build partial pressure, but the car was not driveable in the slightest.

In the end, I went to Advanced Auto and got a vacuum bleeder which I rented for free. Was done bleeding in about 2 minutes, with the reservoir cap off and another person monitoring the level while I sucked all the air and fluid out of the bottom.

Also, I soaked all of the hardline bolts in PB blaster the night before, they all came off easily besides the one by the manifold, but that still came off with some effort using a line wrench. I would say this is a necessary step, I would have stripped that nut otherwise, it is extremely tight. Also, 45-degree plier were the only thing to remove the pressure plate by the manifold flange. I left my ART pipes in and worked around them, wasn't too bad. The line wrench was bumping against the manifold rather than the pipes, so they weren't directly in the way.

EDIT: Also, do yourself a favor and file down the edges of the subframe before you do this job. They can be razor sharp, I slipped at one point and gave myself a pretty gnarly slice near my wrist. After I filed it down and it was safe even if I slipped, took less than a minute to file off the sharp edges.

do you have to drop the transmission to upgrade the clutch line to the stainless steel clutch line?

Pictures for this thread are not view-able....is this only me ?:crying:

where the pictures at

Holy hell was this a b*tch. Pumped the pedal for about an hour straight to no avail. Ended using a vacuum pump to pull air/fluid through the line, which worked like a charm. Definitely have one on hand if you are planning on swapping out the line.

Once installed I can confirm what everyone else is saying. No more sloppy engagement point after hard or hot drives. pressure stays perfectly consistent. For $30 I can't think of a cheaper insurance policy for the CSC or CMC.

I have added a few pictures in this thread:

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ne-change.html

For those looking for some