Hey pfdaxe :tiphat:

From a specialist from Germany

From time to time he has steering wheels in the shop:

https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-...01210-223-7856

Greetings

Just wanted to say thank you, this thread was a big help this afternoon!

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...dddfc59341.jpg

Steering wheel source:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-US

Looks like I will be doing this again, I'm off to the left by a spline.

Wanted to say THANK YOU for this DIY.

ran into an issue with one of the Tamper-Torx bolts, but was able to grab it with a needle nose vise grip and using a crescent wrench on the visgrips get the bolt removed.

I went to the hardware store this morning and picked up two M6x1.00 caps head bolts and washers in stainless steel, to replace the tamper-Torx bolts with.

will make it easier to change or adjust steering wheel in the future

My wheel should be here sometime this week and I was about to head to Home Depot to purchase the T30 Torx tamper bit when I noticed my wheel didn't have a T30 Torx bolt holding the airbag in place. Mine is held on with a standard 10mm bolt on both sides. I tried my socket and the bolt loosened with ease. Maybe I have these instead as I have a early '09?? And yes, it's the original OEM wheel that has never been removed and the Z has never been wrecked or had the airbag deployed. Anyone else find this?

:happydance:

New Wheel
 

New wheel came in and this thread helped with the install. Thank you OP! :tiphat:

I had the wheel custom made and shipped from Europe for a steal of a price with stitching and top ring to match OEM Touring interior and while I had the airbag off, I added a little carbon fiber wrap around the switches:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...psr79ms7fe.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...ps5y1qeclh.jpg

:driving:

Going to attempt this soon. Going to hit the bolts with some wd-40 to hopefully loosen them up. Wish me luck. :eekdance:

Thank you guys for posting about aligning the spline. Hopefully I can get it straight the first time. :ugh2:

Edited with tips
 

If anyone is looking for an orange airbag clock spring connector PM me.

Here are a few tips and cautionary advice on top of what has already been mentioned for those attempting this mod.

1. An hour or two before starting, hit the two airbag T30 bolts with WD40 or liquid wrench to loosen them up. You can clean up the mess inside afterwards.

2. Use a socket ratchet to remove the airbag T30 bolts. You will likely need this for additional leverage. These bolts are tight.

3. Remove the gray clip first to give you more room to remove the orange and yellow airbag clock spring connectors (don't ask me why I know what they are called, ugh).

4. Have a small needle nose plier ready to remove the orange and yellow airbag clips.

5. There is a small hook that keeps the orange/yellow wires away from the center of the wheel. Make sure you unhook the wires to give yourself more room to unclip the orange/yellow wires.

6. Remove the orange connector and then the yellow. Furthest to the closest.

7. Be CAREFUL with the orange/yellow connectors. I broke the black clip on the yellow connector and had to open up the connector and pull the two wires out. Felt like doing surgery. If you need to do this be careful, these the ends are fragile. Had to remove and reinstall these little wires 3 to 4 times to align the wheel correctly and broke them. Had to purchase a set of the orange and yellow plugs on ebay. I have an orange one for sale.

8. After removing the steering wheel center nut, before pulling out the wheel, mark the steering wheel bolt to provide a reference for installing the new steering wheel. My OEM steering wheel center nub didn't match up to the steering wheel bolt notch on the car. Also take a photo so you can reference when re-installing. If it's not aligned properly, you need to redo the entire DIY again because you won't notice until you actually drive the car if it's just off by one small spline.

9. Remember to tuck back the orange/yellow wire harness away from the center of the wheel.

10. Lightly tug and push on the connectors to make sure they are seated properly. Don't what that airbag light to come up. you should hear a click, if not they should not be able to pull out.

11. A trick to keep the bolts on your screwdriver and out of the steering wheel. Is to insert the T30 screwdriver to your bolt and tape it so it doesn't fall back behind your steering wheel. Tape should stick to the bolt, just remove it after nut is tightened with needle nose pliers.

I hope the tips above makes your experience smoother than mine. This is a simple DIY but you can't just blow thru it because you're dealing with tight bolts that can strip, special connectors, reference points for proper alignment.

Speaking of special connectors, PM me if you need an orange airbag clock spring connector. :rofl2:

This was a great reference for installing my new steering wheel. :tup:

Thanks so much for the DIY, was a very easy process when done carefully with the proper tools. Just had to reset the windows to open/close properly when opening/closing the doors after reconnecting battery.:tup:

I bought a salvage Z. Airbag was blown, seller had stripped the bolts. I tried all the suggestions in this thread to no avail. A few things I also tried unsuccessfully but not, I think, in this thread:

1. Use next size up torx, t35 security and pound in with hammer.
2. Increase friction with any of the following; valve grinding compound, rubber band, duct tape, green scrubber material from back of sponge, steel wool.

So I was at the point of drilling them out but decided to see what my local shop said. Their mechanic with 25 yrs experience got them out. He did a lot of picking at them from what I could see and got the intended bit to finally grab. Well worth the 50 bucks to keep me from screwing it up further. I was having nightmares about how to hold the drill steady and how it would interact with the small security pin in the middle of the bolt. To the guy who got it out with needlenose visegrips, you dah man, I tried several and no way could I get them in there...

I shall be attempting this job soon and after perusing the thread and consulting the manual I have a couple of questions:

No 4:

Manual says to just lift up the locking tabs on the tops of the clockspring connectors of the airbag rather than remove them. It says once the tabs are lifted each clock spring connector can be removed.

No 5 & 9

Is the small hook removeable or do you have to bend it to release the airbag harnesses?

No. 4 - use your own judgement on how to remove it. If you have a manual, use those instructions as they are straight from the maker. Be careful with those connectors as they are special and can be hard and expensive to source. They can be hard to pull up if the right spots are not pinched. Probably meant to be like that so they don't jiggle loose.

No. 9 - loop is open at the bottom cables can just be move out of loop.

Do what makes practical sense. If it's not going smoothly, don't force it but progressive force may need to be used in some situations like any DIY install.

Thank you for the clarification.

The information for No. 4 comes from the Nissan service manual but I am not looking forward to tackling those connectors.

As an update I fitted my new steering wheel today and I was surprised to find that a 2017 base model only has one airbag connector that was indeed removable by raising the black portion of the clockspring connector with a small screwdriver.

Biggest problem was my factory wheel had a counterweight/anti vibration plate? fitted at 12 oclock on the centre hub. My replacement remodelled OEM Juke /370Z steering wheel had partial holes that were not threaded. I had to drill the holes and tap the threads.

Despite trying two different spline positions I think I will have to get the tracking done as the mark on the steering wheel is off.

Is there a need for a steering wheel puller? It's being called for in the OEM repair manual.

No puller was required when I changed my steering wheel. I just unscrewed the retaining nut a fair way then pulled on the steering wheel which released very easily.

My biggest problem was unscrewing the two airbag retaining bolts as its easy to round off the Torx heads due to excess Loctite . I obtained replacements in advance from the Nissan Dealership.

:iagree: This is easy, just take your time with the torx heads and you will be fine. Don't forget to discount your battery first. :tup:

Horn won’t beep
 

I had both of these issues. The issue of the wheel not lining up was fixed when I got an alignment, but 9 months later I still don’t have a horn.

New wheel probably didn't come with the little, round, copper horn contact points. (2) Mine didn't and I had to complain and get some sent to me, which took another 2 months.

While you might be correct, I am learning towards this being an issue with the connection of the grey plug that sits to the left of the airbag. My reasoning behind this is due to my pick up/end call button no longer working after this install, in addition to the horn. Do you have any pictures of the copper pieces? I purchased my wheel from @Jaliscos_carbonfiber on Instagram, and he didn't mention anything like that. If I remember correctly, when I first installed the wheel, the red racing line was like 5-10 degrees off center. This led to me removing the wheel two or three times in total in an attempt to get it center (this was fixed when I got my alignment). I also had an EXTREMELY hard time (every time I removed the wheel) disconnecting the grey plug due to my fingers being too large to reach the release for the grey harness. As a result, I had to use numerous random objects such as skewers, and long screwdrivers in order to push the clip down.

Sounds like you may have damaged the clock spring connector. Do you have any lights on in the dash and/or are your stereo buttons working?

Horn and Buttons won’t work after install
 

No, there aren’t any lights on the dash indicating any issues. Everything on the wheel works fine except for the pickup/end call button, and the horn.

Side note: I don’t really know how to use this site well, is there a way to get a notification that you responded to my comment? I don’t really like having to come back to this page and check for updates every few days.

After doing some more research today about how a clock spring works, I think you might be right. While I don't exactly remember purposely spinning the spring, I do recall it moving, and I can totally see myself getting bored and just spinning it for fun.

Thanks for the guide easiest install ever once I found a wrench big enough to give me some leverage with security bolts gosh Nissan why so much loctite!

https://i.imgur.com/xRI2aKV.jpg

That has to be the sexiest steering wheel made. I'm afraid to ask what it costs.

Carbon Steering Wheel
 

Well, my wheel isn’t the exact same as his, but I’ll be selling mine soon. I think this link will show you a picture of it. http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1625713303

You were right.
 

Well, it seems we were both sort of right. I removed my carbon wheel the other day and noticed that I didn’t have the copper pieces that you had mentioned, which explains why the horn didn’t work. The thing I’m confused about now is that my pick up/end call button still doesn’t work, which has me confused. I rotated the clock spring to the left and right and the amount of turns were even, so now I’m not even sure if still broke the clock spring 🤷🏼*♂️.