Are springs themselves worth all this trouble?

I had the exact same problem on the passenger side. Godzilla must have assembled my passenger side suspension too. The torque spec for this bolt is high (120ft-lbs if I remember correctly) but it's on there much tighter than that from the factory. Or maybe there's thread locker....

Anyway, get a good 6-pt socket with at least 1/2" drive, a 24" breaker bar, and a propane torch. Hit the nut with the torch to heat it up, then make sure the socket is on the nut properly and pull as hard as you can. It will make a very loud crack when it lets go and it will sound like you broke everything. Make sure you don't slam the breaker bar into your fender when it lets go....

You could also use an impact gun if you have access to one. I didn't when I did this but I wish I did.

It depends on what you want out of your car.

I ended up going with coils, but I bought springs because I got an awesome deal. Not to mention, if you aren't tracking or trying to slam you car, springs are probably the best choice.

I loved the way my car used to ride. hahahhahaha :bowrofl:

It doesnt seem like it lower your vehicle by too much compare to stock. But then that's what Tein Spring are known for. Do you have a picture of after it was installed from far away?

There are TONS of different spring makes out there...

TEIN
Swift
Eibach
H&R
Megan Racing

ect...

Tein lowering springs:
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...Z/75a5cb82.jpg

Only picture that I've got without coils.

Just installed swift springs. Took about 3 1/2-4 hrs. Easy install everything went smoothly. I wouldn't recommend it without air tools though. Trying to compress the springs by hand would be a b*tch.

Did my Swift spring install yesterday. No air tools, so I took the strut assembly to the local Mr Tire and they changed the springs out for me for $70 bucks. Well worth it, in my opinion. Thanks for the write up. Rep +1.

[IMG]http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/...reandAfter.jpg[/IMG]

Looking Nice! :tup:

Have you driven it much yet? Ride Comfort?:driving:

I've driven it a bit. The ride is very comparable to what it was with stock springs. Surprisingly, it's no more harsh than it was. I haven't done a spirited mountain run yet though, because I want to get it aligned first., just basic tooling around town so far.
I'm pleased with it.

Looks sweet, the Wife says she can't tell enough, but I'm considering it, I think it looks Perfect the way your wheels fill almost to the fender now, I wonder if it well settle any.:yum:

They say it should settle after 3-4 days. The pic was taken less than 1 day after install, so maybe. it is definitely noticeable.
My wife didn't notice it either, until I showed her the before-after pics.
I will say I have 15 and 20 mm spacers, but I think it needs more, maybe 20 - 25 or wider tires.

Im doing this install right now. I have the front struts off and spring compressors on one. The top hat bolt is just spinning and not coming off? I can feel inside the shock the whole bar spinning when im trying to loosen it with a ratchet. I have no air tools and ive gotten through everything else fine without them. Any suggestions?

*Edit: j/k. I figured it out lol. And for anyone doing this, if you dont have air tools for the spring compressors, its well worth $50-$80 to take the front shocks to a shop and have them switch the springs out for you.

Yep. I remember that part being a PITA!

I ended up being able to get one but couldnt get the top hat bolt off the other. Thank you Mr. Tire. $20 bucks well spent. Ill post pics tomorrow/later on today. Great DIY btw. Repped.

great write up but I have a question...
What did you guys do to remove the 17mm lower control arm bolt?
MY GWAD.. tried impact gun tried just about everything...
driver side I managed to kick it loose but passenger side.. whole different story

looks like im not the only one!!!lol
godzilla... damn you

Lmao @ Godzilla

1/2 drive and a breaker bar served me well.

I had the same issue with my passenger side. It took a 900 ft lb air impact wrench to get it off.

1/2" with a breaker bar. Fairly easy if you're a man.

Yes. Breaker bar is the answer.
:)got my swift installed !!

nezt week i will do it on my car look to easy

Bought a 1/2 electric impact wrench from Harbor freight for 39 bucks and deep well sockets for 19 bucks to install my swifts. Worked like a charm, money well spent:tup:

nice Diy TypeOne this will definetley help when I do the tein springs sometime next week. +1 for you. :tiphat:

Hi all I just got the chance to start on this, like most said the passenger is pita
But can someone help me where the 17m use. How do you get the bolt mount back
On. I can't seem to get back In straight

I'm having an issue taking the two bolts that are on the strut mount plate. Can't seem to fit my wrench/socket. Any suggestions?

try metric tools.. :confused:

Question for you guys. After swapping springs on the front struts, they don't align inside the strut tower and the bottom strut mount...does that mean I have to compress the springs , loosen the top hat and redo?

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Turn your steering wheel

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I think I know what your asking and yes, the orientation is important


I mark the tower and mounts with a touchup pen before removal so the orientation is unaltered when putting back the strut to the car with new springs.
If it doesn't align, you need to take it off the car, rotate the mount by loosening the piston shaft nut. Which means you need a spring compressor if the lowering spring has preload. Yah, it sucks. :D

Yes it has to align. When I did mine a week ago it twisted slightly when I was putting the nut back on and I had to redo it. If it isnt exact you cant install the upper and lower mounts.

The Torque spec shows the middle bolt for 120 ft/lbs but the other bolts on this bracket are not listed. Someone know the torque spec? If it is in the FSU.pdf im clearly missing it. Does any one know it?

Edit: Listed the wrong ft/lbs as 163 ft/lbs. Its actually 120 ft/lbs. 163 is the Nm measurement.

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/d...l-f485d13b.jpg

Was just going to ask this yesterday! I was racking my head too-could not see anything on the PDF.

Anyone?

anyone no the size of the lower strut nut? I need a replacement one. local nissan dealer says he can have one next tuesday, i want one tomorrow.

Rep sent, first time ive tried to work on a car other then simple oil changes/car stereo stuff. your DIY made the job easy and not so intimidating

Just did mine this past weekend, that lower strut nut on passenger side struck me , stripped it and had to cut it off, luckily the Nissan dealership about 30 miles away had 3 in stock, for the nut part # S5269-2Y00A. $3.76

And it is impossible to find that nut other than Nissan, unless you have a place near that sells custom ones, I went everywhere to avoid the stealership

Yes sir u drive 65 miles to get mine on a Saturday to the not so nice side of chicago. I only had to pay 1.50 each for mine. I bought two of them so I have an extra ;)


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Attempted to install springs today without air tools...I gave up on the front due to demon bolts. I did the rear and called a few shops to install the fronts only...getting price quotes around $150 =(

Big breaker bar and a pipe


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I picked up a 30" breaker bar earlier...going to try again tomorrow. Think I should go pick up a long *** pipe as well?