DIY: SPL Parts Rear Camber Arms Install
 

Lets get right down to business...

SPL Parts Pro Rear Camber Arm Install DIY by DoubleDownMotorsports.com

http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/37...cadiystep1.jpg

Estimated Install Time = 1-2 hours
Difficulty = Easy

Tools Needed:
- Floor Jack
- Jack Stands
- Torque Wrench
- Lug Wrench
- Ratchet with 17mm and 14mm sockets
- 17mm and 19mm wrenches
- Phillips Head Screwdriver or Punch
- 3/16 Allen Wrench
- Adjustable Crescent Wrench
- Rubber Mallet

Step #1:
Jack the rear of the car up until the rear tires are off the ground and you can slide jack stands underneath the frame rails. Once jack stands are in place, slowly lower the car onto the jack stands and remove jack from work space. Double check to ensure that the jackstands are properly placed and all four corners of the stands are firmly planted on the floor. I even like to give the car a nudge or two to make sure it doesn't move at all or fall off the stands before I get underneath it.

Step #2:
Remove the rear wheels by removing the lug nuts. This may not be necessary for the install but the extra room will sure make life easier. Set the wheels aside.

Step #3:
Locate the rear camber arm. Here is what they look like off the car...
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/37...camberarm1.jpg

Step #4:
Use the 17mm socket and wrench to remove the outer camber arm bolt (the one closest to the brakes). If necessary, use the rubber mallet on the end of the wrench to break the bolt loose. Once the nut has been removed, use the screwdriver or punch and rubber mallet to gently pound out the bolt.
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/37...cadiystep4.jpg

Step #5:
Use the 14mm socket and loosen the sway bar bracket bolts. You do not need to remove the bolts completely, just loosen them enough to move the sway bar down a bit allowing the inner camber arm bolt to be removed in the next step.
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/37...cadiystep5.jpg

Step #6:
Use the 17mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the inner camber arm bolt. If necessary use the rubber mallet on the end of the wrench to break the bolt loose. Once the nut has been removed you should be able to wiggle the bolt out, above the sway bar that you lowered in step #5.
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/37...cadiystep6.jpg

Step #7:
Remove the stock rear camber arm from the car.

Step #8:
Put the stock rear camber arm and SPL Parts Pro Rear Camber Arm next to eachother and adjust the lenght of the SPL arm until it is equal with the stock arm. Use the stock bolts and put them through the mounting holes of both arms to ensure that they are of equal length. Make sure everything is tight on the SPL arm before install.
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/37...cadiystep8.jpg

Step #9:
Reverse the steps to install the SPL Parts Pro Rear Camber Arm.
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/37...cadiystep9.jpg

Step #10:
Repeat Steps 1-9 for the other side of the car.
http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/37...adiystep10.jpg

Step #11:
Re-install the wheels and tighten the lugs so the wheel sits flat and firm against the brake rotor hat.

Step #12:
Use the floor jack to raise the car up off of the jack stands and remove them from underneath the car. Slowly lower the car back down to the ground.

Step #13:
Use the torque wrench to torque the lugs back to factory specs (I torque mine to 80 lbs.)

Step #14:
Roll the car out of the driveway and back in to allow the suspension to settle.

Step #15:
Check your camber and toe to insure proper alignment.
***Note: If you do not have proper alignment measuring tools, it is highly recommended that you get to an alignment shop as soon as possible.

Please do this install at your own risk. Double Down Motorsports does not hold any responsibility for problems that may occur due to installing these parts on your vehicle. As always, it is recommended to have a professional install these parts.

Good write up! :tup:

do u have to drill to enlarger holes for toe bolts? My shop is charging me a extra $100 to install the rear camber arms with toe bolts

The camber are completely separate from the toe bolt so no, but if you got SPC toe bolts along with it, you will need to enlarge the holes.

If I was to go for spc rear camber arms do I have to do some MODS? Is it just straight up bolt on?

They are just a straight bolt on replacement, no modification needed.

:tup:thnx

Pics aren't coming through for me.. anyone else have that problem?

He said he was going to re host it. can't see it either:confused:

fixed

THNX!!!!:tup: Great DIY

where does the toe bolt go? i kno i have to enlarge the hole to fit the SPC toe bolt in. Precision Z in LA want to charge me $250 just to install the toe bolt due to the hole being small and have to be enlarged.

on step #10 are those two camber bolts that hold the camber arm in also know as "toe bolt"??

No. The toe bolt is one the bolts that hold the rear spring perch in. Look under the car and find the rear spring perch attachments and you will see the cam-lobed adjustment washers on the toe bolts.

Ok just found it (:
Thanks!

Ive also been told that the SPC toe bolt will not fit so i would have to drill the hole bigger? Is that true?

Yep. The SPC Toe bolts are basically the same as stock with a more aggressive cam lobe washer. To allow for the extra adjustment the mounting hole must be elongated to allow for full range.

Thank you

I will be adding Swift Spec R springs in the next few weeks, what determines whether or not you need to use the toe bolts?

You should be fine. Usually those who lower their car quite a bit are the ones who end up needing the toe bolts.

I will also add swift spec r springs, will i need to add any cam arms to the front?

Thank you.

I could not find a DIY for this mod, and went ahead and started the install. I put the rear camber arms in with no problems. However when installing the Toe Bolt and enlarging the hole I made the hole larger for the toe bolt that goes were the camber arm goes and not the spring bucket.

Below is a DIY for the 350Z that states this goes were the spring bucket goes.
http://www.batit.com/forumpics/spctoeboltinstall.pdf

My questions... Obv I have to remove those bolts now and place the stock ones back on. Did I **** up my cars toe by making those holes bigger?

If the SPC toe bolts fit in that location I would keep them there and buy another set for the correct location.

^ Can't I just put the stock toe bolt and put the SPC in the correct location?

Or can they dial in the Toe thru that spot?

You probably can put the stock bolt back in but I don't think you will be able to get your camber back to perfect since the smaller cam lobe will be pretty much useless with the larger slot. If you plan on tracking it, your camber may even change due to the high g-loads as it slips back and forth in the oversized slot. You really need to have the correct sizes cam lobe in there to retain full functionality. That being said, if you put the stock bolts back in, it won't harm anything or cause damage. For the $30 though I would definitely buy another set for the toe settings. What you did is just basically given yourself even more range of adjustment on camber instead of toe.

Taken care of, car is aligned and well.

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/3404/lalajv.jpg

Here are the instructions:

http://cdn.splparts.com/tech/SPLHADJ.pdf

Mods, If the OP doesn't remove / correct this DIY I would suggest deleting this thread before more people follow this nonsense and possibly destroy their $280 arms.

This issue might have been corrected on the customer's alignment, but I don't think it should have left the shop like that even in a simple measuring tape install / alignment.

What is the point of toe bolts if you have to buy them separately, I lowered my car on Stance coilovers and want to adjust my rear camber but dont know what i need.:ughdance:

SPC camber arm & toe bolt
 

I just installed the SPC camber arm & toe bolt. I used "white out" to mark the area of material to remove when installing the cam bolts. Also helps a bunch when you have the right dye grinder bit. Grainger had it along with cutting oil. 1/2 the price of SPC although SPC has 2 bits in the kit, I only needed 1.

Is it safe to assume that car can be driven to shop for alignment after this DIY?

thanks again for DIY, did this mod today with alignment and got back to factory specs for the rears now gotta save up for fronts.

Just an update on this. You should not make all the adjustment with one section. The pictures shown in the DIY show all of the adjustment being made in the larger threaded section. This section should not be extended out more than 3/4". As pictured it is beyond the limit stated by SPL.

HERE is a link to the directions from SPL.

I know this thread is old, but before i get my parts in would there be anyway to fix the pictures on this DIY?

Yes, I would like the pics updated also. :)

+1 for updated pictures please!

Good write-up. This DIY was very helpful. The camber adjustment bolts on my 2014 Nismo would not go back in cleanly from the front side. Did anyone else experience this? They are basically blocked by the sway bar preventing them from going back in without a struggle. I ended up reversing the cam bolt, cam washer and nut to do the inboard camber link attachments. Time estimate was right on the money. 90 Minutes start to finish.

Thanks for the DIY Write-up.

Great Write-up!
 

Just finished installing the spl camber links on my Z..

after a good look from behind i noticed that the camber is dead even (per side), but sitting a bit negative and slightly visible toe ( im ocd i can see it! :) )

Of note, the nut ( bolts near the brakes) didnt want to move. rather than strip it, i breaker bar'ed the bolt side and it got to moving without deformity to the bolt head.

I also gave it a good greasing at the joint... ( wish there was a boot of some sort for that bit. )

Also, the lock bolt kit i got from z1 was a good fit, but it didnt torque when i expected it to ( just kept going - no click from the torque wrench zzz) dunno if the washer is just getting compressed and ill eventually get it.. On the safe side, it was tight enough for a test drive, but im contacting z1 for torque specs on these bolts/washers.

all in all , easier than i thought it would be.

Next on the list, are the swift springs waiting to get put on... Looks like the rear will not be trouble, but the fronts will be involved...

THx Again

Just installed the SPC rear performance camber arms the other day, didn't have to touch the rear sway bar brackets, was able to wiggle out the camber bolts.

Follow up 6000mi later
 

I can say ive put a beating on them since i put them in... Ive had to go rounds with the regional mgr at Firestone to keep my lifetime alignments, but all is good....

That said, ive had 2 alignment checks ( and adjustments) made so far, after initial alignment for the camber links...

Happy to say, that they didnt have to touch the camber links to adjust the car... these things are solid. A 1/2 season of hard driving on the winding roads up in the rockies, and im not looking back.

Im actually thinking of putting in the SPL mid links as well, so i can all but forget about the rear... i might option for some good grade non-solid bushings though... i dont want to have too rigid a car, since it is a street car with some track time. That, the upper control arms, (sell a kidney) and its time to drop the car.

:)