Nissan 370Z Forum
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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   DIY Section (Do-It-Yourself) (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/)
-   -   DIY - Brake Cooling Ducts (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/19584-diy-brake-cooling-ducts.html)

FL 4Motion 10-19-2011 07:34 PM
the mystery deepens. Well, I hope it's correct. If so, I might just have to buy the new oem parts and swap them to my car.

b1adesofcha0s 10-19-2011 07:40 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by FL 4Motion (Post 1367519)
the mystery deepens. Well, I hope it's correct. If so, I might just have to buy the new oem parts and swap them to my car.
All we can do is wait and see.....

Dustin@Z1 10-19-2011 09:10 PM
Most likely the 2012's oil cooler is going to be what is already been installed on the Middle Eastern and Austrailian spec 370Z's. It just makes sense that Nissan would expand a product, that they already produce for two markets, to the rest of the world. It is extremely unlikely that Nissan would develop a true air to oil oil cooler setup like what is offered by us, GTM, Stillen and Nissan Motorsports.

This oil to water style oil cooler is what was installed from the factory on the 350Z and G35 VQ35DE engines. I have been shocked from day 1 as to why Nissan did not keep that style of oil cooler on the Vq35HR and VQ37VHR engines.

These parts are already available for the most part, just no in the US.

ResIpsa 10-25-2011 07:26 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin@Z1 (Post 1367302)
In reality you do want the brake duct aimed at the center of the disc, not a single disc face. You concerns are correct here.

The idea of a brake duct is so that the air is channeled into the middle of the disc, scooped up by the internal vane design (between the disc faces), passed between the disc faces and out around the perimeter of the disc. As the air passes between the disc faces it extracts heat evenly from both faces. If you cool the brake pads unevenly, it can cause the brake pads to be less effective.

In addition, having the duct aimed properly will also help keep the wheel bearings cool and hopefully prolong their service life.

Something to also pay attenion to is the rotation direction of your rotors. You want it so that it scoops air from the inside and expells it outward. If you have this backwards it will prevent the ducts from doing their job as effectively. Stock 370Z rotors are not directional, but this is something to pay attenion to if you ever upgrade to a BBK or aftermarket set of rotors with directional vanes.
The big problem I had ducting the air to the center of the rotor is the design of our front suspension. Our cars have a massive aluminum spindle taking up all the space in the center of the rotor.

My design does route some air at the face of the rotor but the majority of the duct is inside the rotor.

And yes, my rotors are backward. However, they are not directional. I noticed this after I had already installed everything and was just too lazy to take everything apart again.

ResIpsa 10-25-2011 07:38 AM
** very important note**
 
A couple of weeks after installing my new ducts I noticed that my ABS warning lot was coming on intermittently. After taking the wheels off I discovered what was going on.

The metal zip tie I used to secure the brake hose to the duct on the rotor was rubbing against the ABS line. It was starting to slowly cut through the line. Luckily, I noticed this before actually cutting through the insulation.

Although this picture is not the best angle, you can see how the line runs next the duct. I had to drill out the rivets on the passenger side duct (very easy to do) and move the duct about ½ inch away from the ABS sensor. It should be pretty obvious when you do the install. Just make sure that no part of the brake hose or clamp touches the ABS line or sensor.

Also, it would be a good time to remove the ABS sensor (10mm socket) and clean it off. Mine was covered in brake dust.


http://www.the370z.com/members/resip...336-duct-7.jpg

Dustin@Z1 10-26-2011 11:50 AM
The orientation of the slots on the face does not matter. You should be fine here.

What are you using to secure the ducting to the chassis???

On my Z32 Slicktop I used various size Worm Clamps and drilled a hole in them. I used the hole to attach the clamps to the chassis/suspension as needed. I then tightened down the worm clamps to secure the duct piping.

ResIpsa 10-26-2011 07:11 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin@Z1 (Post 1377927)
The orientation of the slots on the face does not matter. You should be fine here.

What are you using to secure the ducting to the chassis???

On my Z32 Slicktop I used various size Worm Clamps and drilled a hole in them. I used the hole to attach the clamps to the chassis/suspension as needed. I then tightened down the worm clamps to secure the duct piping.
Just a zip tie around the lower section of the shock absorber. So far there have been no issues. But I will monitor the brake ducting for any potential issues.

This is why I like to daily drive my mods for a couple thousand miles before I take them to the track. Fingers crossed...

KevinB 10-29-2011 05:30 PM
reslpsa: any updates on your ducts? Happy with it so far?

ResIpsa 10-30-2011 09:44 AM
The ABS warning light problem has been 100% fixed. Everything else seems to be fine.

RoshDawg 04-03-2012 01:06 PM
Sorry for the age old bump,
But do you guys think it's possible to do similar type of ducting but instead of routing air from the fangs, route air from the undertray?

Edit: maybe with something like this: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...46/Naca_Ducts2

axio 04-03-2012 01:19 PM
I was wondering the same as well as I don't think there is enough space for me to do this with all the plumbing from the GTM Stg2 SC intercooler and oil cooler.

RoshDawg 04-03-2012 01:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by axio (Post 1637576)
I was wondering the same as well as I don't think there is enough space for me to do this with all the plumbing from the GTM Stg2 SC intercooler and oil cooler.
If routing air from the undertray, a lot less tubing needs to be used it just goes from the control arm area to the brakes, effectively bypassing the inter cooler and oil cooler locations.

Check out: Brake Cooling Options

And pay close attention to the 'Scoop mounted to control arm'. You can route a hose to under the control arm, and on track days when you do not have to worry about clearance, you can simply attach the huge scoop (to make up for the low pressure area) to the pre-installed hoses.

scruffydog 05-29-2012 10:03 AM
Great write up, I am in the middle of trying install a brake duct kit for my 370z as I'm gonna track it at Laguna Seca next month. Where did you get the Aluminum Flange at? Most of the ones I found has 2 rivot flanges that extends out of the circular shape. Link

I don't know if the brake dust shield will have enough room for this particular shape.

ResIpsa 05-29-2012 10:42 AM
Aircraft spruce aviation supply company.

scruffydog 06-07-2012 05:41 PM
I'm in the process of doing the same thing...
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...tallation.html

My DIY is more of just plain pictures but I'll update you guys when I'm done. I decided to go with 3" Diameter...a little overkill, in fact now i'm a little worried because more cool air will get exposed to the surface than the inner hub of the rotor. Oh well...maybe I'll design something else like a tray funnel style one day.

Also, have you taken any temperature? Stillen's website (essentially the exact same thing) claims 25% drop in temp, but I noticed they put a Stoptech brake setup. Who knows if that claim is really true.


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