Differential Bush removal options
 

Hi guys. New to this forum. Already read into some helpful DIYs for the diff bush mod for our Z cars as mine blew months ago. I'm actually surprised it's still running decent with a loose diff bush. Probably not a good idea hah!

My question is simple. Is there any other way to take out the OEM bush without using a hacksaw? Just concerned if I cut too deep into the subframe I'll damage it if not careful. I'm new to the whole DIY mechanics stuff so any helpful info is appreciated.

You could try Z1's removal tool. But it's a piece of chit.

If you are installing a SPL bushing. Put it in the freezer for a couple of days. Or pack it in dry ice. If you are installing a poly bushing. They like to squeeze out at the sides when being pulled in. The bushing hole is not perfectly round. It's kind like egg shaped. It got that way from the welding.

The oem bushing has 2 chambers with silicone fluid. The one that's leaking, you don't have to worry about. The one that ain't leaking will spray fluid about 3 ft when you start to cut in to it.

Once you have the diff out. Work from the front of the bushing. Use a 1/2' drill that you plug in. You could smoke a cordless drill. Cut out the inner bushing using a 2" hole saw. I linked it below. Then using a sawzall. Make 2 or 3 cuts in the outer shell. One at the bottom of the shell. The other ones at the 4 or 6 o:clock positions. Being careful of not going too deep. Stop and inspect your cuts a couple of times. Once you have your cuts done. Use a muffler tool. Link below. Position the cutting edge of the tool with one of your sawzall cuts. You can hammer it out, or use an air chisel and you will be done faster.

Once the outer shell is out. Use a 2", 40 grit flapper wheel on a drill or die grinder to remove the paint and smooth out the inside of the hole. Link below. MAKE SURE THAT THE INSIDE OF THE HOLE IS BABY BUTT SMOOTH! If you have any burrs or metal sticking up. You will not be able the fully install the bushing. As it will hang up on the burrs. And you are SCREWED! Once you have the hole cleaned up. Anti seize the chit out of that hole. Install the bushing from the front. You will have more working room.

To install the bushing. I used a piece of 1/2" threaded rod about 14" long. Double nut the one end of it. 2 pieces of 3/8' thick, 4x4" squares with a 1/2" hole in the center of them. On the thread rod, put a couple of 1/2" washes on it and slide them back the the double nuts. Take one of the plates and position it on the rear of the hole. Then put the threaded rod through it. Put you bushing on the rod, followed by the 2nd plate, a couple of washers and a nut. Finger tighten the nut up. Make sure the bushing is squared up with the hole before tightening the nut up with wrenches. Once squared up, start to tighten the nut. Once you can't turn the wrenches anymore. Use a hammer and beat on the plate. You will have to repeat this a few times. Once you have the bushing flush with the hole. Remove the plate and put a big socket on the rod, followed by the plate. You want the bushing about 1/8" to3/16" below the front of the hole. If you don't get the bushing far enough in the hole. You will have trouble installing the front 2 bolts.

Use this hole saw. It cuts deeper then any hole saws.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-2...00CT/301697691

Muffler inner pipe cutting tool.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Flapper wheel
https://www.premiumtool.com/flap-wheels/

Good luck on your install. :tup: I've done a few of them. :icon14:

Thanks! Didn't expect all that info overload! Appreciate it. I have the whiteline diff bush set. Guess I have some tool shopping to do heh.

Also could I just get away with having the bush flush on the rear side? The DIY pics seems to have it that way and it works fine for them. Also you mentioned anti-seize. What product would you recommend? I'm from Australia so brand name might be different. It wouldn't happen to be WD-40? Actually the whiteline set comes with a lubricant satchet. Not sure if that's what you mean.

This is the most outer bushing you’ll be cutting to get out; it’s like the oem glues it in place. :tiphat:
Here’s pic of the anti-seize too :tup:

Haha cool appreciate the pics. Atleast I have an idea what to get now. Should hopefully make this mod easier to do.

One more pic of the hole in subframe, after bushing is out.
As as Rusty has given you professional instructions on removal & installation...it will come out in multiple pieces :ugh2:

Finally got that dang stubborn old diff bush out. But I made a mistake though. I sort of cut past the outer shell a little bit. I hope this isn't too bad of a mess up?

I didn't realize how stubborn that outer shell was. I thought after you cut the metal it would just naturally break apart and come out. But after I hammered it out a few times it started to lift and come out.

Sorry about the pic. My phone won't focus properly. It's the scratches at the top mid left.

You HAVE to smooth all of that out with a flapper wheel. It's got to be baby butt smooth. Otherwise, suicide will be on your mind.

Thanks man. Appreciate your helpful advice and tips.

:tiphat:

Where did you source the flapper wheel? The link is to a Canadian company that doesn't have online store nor have they answered my email for 2 weeks. I haven't been able to locate one through online search. :tiphat:

Home Depot. :tiphat:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WALTER-S...F306/305936869

Nice thanks!! Been searching flapper wheel all this time and dang HD etc. didn't make the relation. :shakes head:

You have watch your search on Home Depot. You put in flapper wheel, and you get toilet flappers. :icon14:

Pretty much. I noticed the same with ebay, amazon and lowes as well with Amazon ALYAWS being a fail! So much for AWS. :rolleyes: