Yes I used the old pads to push in the pistons. I also changed one pad at the time which I think also makes it easier.

I like the Hawk HPS pads. I've had them on my 350Z for a long time. They are good pads for street/autocross driving. Good bite, low dust. Generally I think you'll find that they are better than the OEM pads in almost every way.

My next project is to change my brake lines and fluid. I've got a set of GT Motoring Challenge stainless steel brake lines that I plan to install. I also plan to change my brake fluid to Motul RBF600 at the same time.

I know you guys mentioned one could use channel-locks to push the pistons in, but I can't find a set with rubber covers. I'm reluctant to use the 'old' pads cus I'll be swapping them back in again shortly.

What do you think about these? They're $6 each, very adjustable, and seem to be no larger than channel locks in terms of fitting within the caliper to compress the pistons. They even have nice little rubber covers to avoid marring the pistons and caliper. I bought two to compress the pistons at the same time.

Think they'll work?

Disc brakes are a piece of cake. Drum brakes suck a$$

those should work spear, where do you get them?

Home Depot. Nice little rubber caps, easy to adjust and slowly screw tighter, and super cheap...hopefully they do the trick.

So I'm going to be doing this today, but I just had a question.

If I do it one pad at a time, do I just do the following:
1. Remove pins.
2. Push/Pull one of the pads towards the pistons.
3. Remove that pad.
4. Apply brake grease between shim and pad.
5. Slide in new pad.

Only reason I'm a bit confused is the DIY link included shows them pulling out each pad, and then putting them back in sideways? Is that necessary, or can you just remove them and then put in the new pad?

The reinserting the pad sideways is to push the pistons back in to give you room. You'll need some extra space when you're inserting new pads when replacing old pads.

The steps are:
1. remove wheel
2. turn wheel to side you're working on (optional but helpful and easiest if front end is completely on jack stands)
3. pull out cotter pin (one in each retaining pin)
4. Use screw driver to push retaining pin out a bit while pressing on the tensioner plate with your other hand (the pin runs across the tensioner plate...you'll see what I mean). Once the pin is pushed out a bit, you can grab the inside with needle nose pliers and pull it out. Repeat for second pin. The tensioner plate will come off...save it to reinstall later.
5. using your fingers, pull on one pad with even, generous force to pull it away from the rotor and compress the pistons on that side. You just need a little movement to remove the pad.
6. Once the pad is out, reinsert it sideways and make sure it's covering both pistons if you're working on the front calipers. Use it as a gentle pry bar to pry the pistons further into the caliper. This will allow you to install the new, thicker pad. Be careful and slow and you won't chip the pad you're prying with. In time, you can just use an old worn out pad for this step.
7. Slide in your new pad that has been greased on the side edges and back. You can be generous with the grease.
8. Repeat steps 5-7 on the opposite pad in that caliper.
*don't remove both pads at once and then try to pry the pistons. You'll just push the pistons out on the other side as you pry the opposite side into the caliper. If you're doing the front caliper, you have to push the pair of pistons evenly or one will go in while the other comes out.
9. With both pads swapped, replace the tensioner plate over the pads and slide the retainer pins back in place. Just take your time and it will all line up. If the pins won't go in, try removing and replacing the pads or swapping them (sometimes they're happier on one side than the other, though they look identical).
10. With the pins in place, replace the cotter pins.
11. Repeat for the remaining calipers.
12. Turn the ignition to 'on' or start the engine. Depress the brake pedal repeatedly until it firms up. Check your brake fluid level to make sure it's still at the Max line. Below Max will get you Slip and VDC lights. Over Max will get you an overflow spill potentially.

Enjoy the pads.

Thanks a lot spearfish! It was way easier than I expected it to be, which figures, haha. Most difficult thing for me was lining up the cotter pins on the rear caliper's, couldn't see so well.

Glad everyone mentioned to keep an eye on the brake fluid, I had to suck out a good amount, and if I didn't notice it would of overflowed.

pretty much it, but I take two flat blade screwdrivers and use them to push the pistons back in while the old pads are still on the car, since it won't matter if they are damaged a little. Insert the screwdrivers between the pad and rotor, one on each side and use leverage to push the pistons back in.