Last night I did my buddy's 2013 STi and my.orange pad was producing SO MUCH dust and I'm not really sure why. I kept spraying it to make it a little damp which should help. And right when I was done with that pad it got pretty hot on the back of the backing plate and pad. I didn't know until I went to take it off. I keep having problems with these orange pads but I really like the white pad and m105.

Anyway the results came out awesome and took me 7 hours. From 9 pm to 4 am.

I did try out speed 6 a little and I think that's what messed the orange pad up maybe for some reason. Any advice guys? I never really had dust problems with either pad

Here's some pics:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...5310b080d5.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...f1d4544fd6.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...79e304f06a.jpg

Roof looks scratched but it's some stuff on the ceiling of his garage
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...f1b866cb60.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...92128ffe95.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...327a19f7e4.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...bde59fc379.jpg

Yes. Don't be Charles Barkley on the golf course and this will never happen to you. If you have watched my machine polishing videos, this will make perfect sense to you.

Of course it does! I'll stick to speed 5 I guess. I just wanted to experiment to see if I could get it done quicker but reality is detailing ISNT quick.

Not with THAT machine. You can get done a hell of a lot quicker but the trade off is it's a hell of a lot more easy to screw up your paint. Another thing, you won't have a dusting issue if you use the right amount of compound. When you use the wrong amount, you will have the experience that you had. Changing the technique only added to the problem.

So excessive dust is only because I used too much right? Using too little wouldn't cause dust would it?

I also have another question on what you would do..do every step panel by panel or clay the whole car, m105, m205 then wax the whole car?

Yes it can if you work it too fast but not as bad.

Answer me this. How are you going to keep the pad from touching the panel that is adjacent to the one that you are working on? :confused:

You are right haha. I've been working the whole car step by step. Maybe next year when I have more experience under my belt I'll get the flex 3401 vrg to speed things up a bit since I'm doing this on the side not just for myself. :)

something about those water drops...💞

Little update, just restored my headlights. Boy were they disgusting!

Before:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...dddeb5e48e.jpg

After:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...6a778052a5.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...6beddc61c9.jpg

If you guys want to follow my adventures, be sure to check out my instagram accounts in my signature :)

Nice what did you use for your headlights, I have been trying to figure this out for a while but no luck.

I'm just getting into this in a small way. Do I have this right...wash, clay, polish, wash, and wax? I'm just doing it by hand with mainly meguires products. If I get half as good of results as you I'll be happy

First clean it off. Then I wetsanded with 2000. You can then go to 2500 and then 3000 but I wanted to do this same-day and 2000 is all I could get.

Then I used meguiars m105 (high cut compound) with a high cut pad to get rid of sanding marks.

Then followed it up with meguiars m205 (light cut polish) with a low cut pad to get rid of the high cut marks.

3 coats of klasse paint sealant and 1 coat of wax because I'm anal. :)


Wash, clay, (some like to wash again after clay), compound if needed, polish. sealant/wax.

Doing this all by hand unfortanutely will not net you great results as far as swirl marks.

What it will do is make your still feel incredibly smooth.

Hope this helps.