Another update:
It has been two weeks since my last wash, and the car was getting a bit dirty. I drove through really heavy rain and hail (!) last night and the beading was much better than any wax I have seen. I parked it in the garage and left it overnight, and this morning the paint was immaculate. I'm not sure I even need to wash it this weekend. Very cool. |
Very nice. I'm glad you are liking it. On a side note, I rubbed the paint with an old dirty microfiber rag with one spray of QD to see what would happen. Nothing happened to the paint at all. This would have marred the original paint quite a bit. So I know it is much harder than the oem paint.
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What happens if you vinyl over something like this since vinyl doesn't exactly use an adhesive adhere? Or would this be an option for those who want a more permanent application to their vinyl to opticoat over it.
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If I remember correctly what I read on autopia awhile back, opticoat does get pretty hard, but I saw pics where people still swirled it like any paint after some time. I had thought "what would be the point with the prospect of potentially applying it wrong and leaving streaks that would need to be buffed out..." But if it actually makes washing the Z without marring it easier, it might be worth it. Currently I use Optimum Opti-seal and just bought some Collinite 845 to try. I was thinking of using Blackfire Wet Diamond next year after I polish, but if I am brave enough I might use opti-coat2. Please keep us updated as to how your new opti-coating resists swirls over time. :) |
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There is no reason to top it. Nothing will stick to it for any length of time anyway. It looks great, beads like crazy and releases contaminates. What else could we want.
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If you already have the vinyl on, then just put OC over it. If OC is on the car and you want to add some vinyl, then you will need to polish the OC so the vinyl will stick. I have clear bra on my car and have OC over the clear bra as well, to seal it in and protect it for life, or a least until it gets beat up and needs to be replaced.
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If you are already using opti-seal, then you will have no trouble with opti-coat because the application is the same.
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For anyone planing on opti-coating their car, I have found using a microfiber covered sponge to work the best. It coats a lot more evenly with this application, but does use a little more product.
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NXTAZEE the G35 was amazing. We had about 8 or 10 cycles of torrential downpour and dry. The car would literally dry itself withing a couple of minutes - not a drop anywhere and super glossy. The only place we had dirt was all over the back since there is a spoiler there. I'm confident that it will blast right off. It beads like crazy as we saw with the 370Z that was waxed last week was more sheeting than the OC. The 300ZX looks amazing and I'm looking forward to getting the OC on the 370Z. It's hard to imagine not having to wax the car.....
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OC will release bug guts better than anything you could put on top of it. OC will, and has, lasted for years. Some early trial cars are more than 3 years with OC on them and the OC is just as good as when it was first applied.
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I'm glad everyone is happy with it. I just love the stuff. Oh, your 370 is washed and clayed and ready for polishing. The blue should look awesome with OC.
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I always end up streaking the opti-seal. I try not to use too much, but I guess I always do. That's one reason I wasn't sure about opti-coat2. But, I have always used a foam applicator and you are saying it is easier with a microfiber applicator to get it even. Maybe I'll try a microfiber applicator next time I apply opti-seal to see if I can get the hang of it.
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