DRL/Fog not turning off?
 

Hi guys, I tried posting this in the general forum, but since this pertains to cars originally equipped with Daytime Running Lights, The majority of forum members in the US can't really help.

Recently my car srtated doing this weird thing.

When I turn the engine off and exit the car, the fog lights (which are the daytime running lights) stay on.

I've waited up to 10 or 15 minutes, they don't turn off. I'm guessing that at the 30 minute mark they probably would becaus of the battery saver, but that's not normal.

From what I can gather, it's likely a relay that "sticks" to the on position. Problem is that the relays for these things are built-in to the Power Distribution module (IPDM) so they can't be replaced without changing the entire module, which isn't cheap.

Has anyone had something similar?

My timers for lights off are set to zero and every other lights shut right off when I close my door after a shut-down so that's not it.

Sounds like a trip to Nissan, but i'd like to see if anyone had this, I would like to point them in a direction in case they give me the "can't reproduce it" type of answer.

Thanks!

That is weird. Have you had the Z since new? If not, did someone wire up a switch to turn the DRL's on/off manually?

Just bought it this past January so i'm only starting to drive it this last month.

I've looked it over and it seems there's absolutely no modifications, no odd wires or switches.

I've read Nissan had problems with IPDM on other models that had sticky relays, but nothing on a 370Z

It may be a relay or wiring issues. Was any work done on the front end, was the bumper removed to add a CAI or maybe the bumper was replaced incorrectly after an accident/repair? That's where I would start. I am certain someone else will chime in.

As far as I can tell no modifications at all (and no signs of past modifications removed).

Carproof showed no accidents either. It's a 2013 with 23,000km on it.

If only I could change out the relay, but it's built into the IPDM.

Many sticking relays are caused by eroded/oxidized contacts. If you can get to the contacts, a small burnishing tool* should fix you up.

*Just an example, not a recommendation

electrical contact cleaner also works for cleaning electrical contacts =)

https://shop.harborfreight.com/media...mage_24186.jpg

Hmmm, you're missing the point. The relays in the IPDM are not replaceable. Can't get to them. If this was a regular automotive relay, i'd have tried swapping it out already.

The IPDM is where all wires connect next to the battery and where most fuses are. The only relay that can be changed is the starter relay. All other relays are inside, soldered to the board.

Sorry to threadjack but does anybody know a way to disable the DRL? Searching didn't yield any concrete solutions and I doubt a dealership would be keen to disable them in the BCM as it's a safety thing. I'm not a big fan of constantly running the headlights even at a reduced voltage or however it's done. Just wondering if anybody had found a way.

Can you get access to the board? You nay be able to clean them even if they are soldered on...

Another alternative is just to rewire them yourself.. Just need a switched 12V source that has a big enough circuit to power them. Are we talking about the DRLs that come on the 13+ or is this specific to Canadian models?

Burnishing does away with the need to replace. Repair, not replace.

There should be a way to get to them (IIRC, they aren't glued/welded together) ... but it may be more work than it's worth. FSM may give you some clues on how to get it apart.

A good dose of contact cleaner, as mentioned above, will help any sticking that is caused by old lubricant.

Ok, this will help understand how this thing works.

I took this image from the steering lock thread. What you see here is our IPDM. The ONLY relay that's removable is the black one, that's the starter relay.

Inside this beige board are many more. (wiper, fog, a/c, etc.) But i've not been able to find any pictures of what it looks like inside there. I'm a bit reluctant to crack mine open to see if it looks like we can replace one or even clean them. Most of the ones you have to solder as typically fragile and you risk breaking them if you try to open them.

http://www.the370z.com/members/yamah...01-photo-7.jpg

If you want to fix that relay you have two choices:
1) Replace IPDM.
Pros: Easiest solution.
Cons: Expensive.

2) Disassemble IPDM and repair relay (or replace - unsoldering/resoldering is not that difficult).
Pros: Cheaper than #1.
Cons: Documentation may be hard to find. If you screw up bad enough, go to #1.

If you decide to go with #2, please take a lot of pics and post a DIY.

Here's my plan:

I was told this car has an extended warranty that ends in 2 weeks. I have an appointment this coming tuesday at my local Nissan dealer. I hope they either can reproduce the problem (intermittent at this point) or they will believe me and replace the IPDM.

If things don't go that way, i'll try to find the same part on ebay for cheap and replace it. If successful i would then open the old one and see about fixing it.

Worst case scenario I can't find the exact same model and open mine.

I saw a few on ebay, they look the same but carry different part numbers. Not sure what differences there are but since this is an integrated circuit board, there can be many differences, can't take a chance without a perfect match.

Aramis76, I would also point out to the dealer that this is issue with your DRL's is related to the actual law, nationwide. Motor vehicles are to have fully functional DRL's. If your DRL's are not functioning properly, you may be issued a citation by local law enforcement. Maybe this may light an additional fire under the dealers a$$ses to get this issue resolved asap. Good luck and let us know how it goes.