:iagree:

Agreed. The lockout kit is not absolutely required but is recommended to eliminate the second point of adjustment. Personally I would not forgo the lockout kit and leave the adjustment bolt in - it would feel incomplete and would bug me to no end. ;)

Great information guy +1 to you both!!!

Just installed the SPL camber links and eccentric lock out tonight. The whole purpose of theSPL arms is to have maximum control with no chance of camber adjustments slipping. The stock adjuster while adequate can still turn slip over time. One adjustment point is better for overall control over your camber andd toe.

I piggybacked on this related thread.
 

Great thread. It made it clear that I ought to get the lockouts for my SPL camber arms so all the camber adjustment is handled by the arms themselves.

Now my issue.....I have the SPC toe bolts for toe adustment on the lower spring buckets but have not installed them yet. I have the template for elongating the holes. The instructions make no mention at all of elongating the holes to the INBOARD side only of the stock holes. Is this right?
It appears that if I put the template in place to mark the hole it leads me to believe one ought to elongate the stock hole in both inboard and OUTBOARD directions since the template seems to be symmetrical. OR, do I just align the template to the outboard edge of the stock hole and elongate to inboard? I have not been able to find much other than toe bolt installs on 350s. Everything I've seen says to elongate the holes in only the one direction....inboard. Is the 370 different, or once the car is lowered, inboard is the only direction you'll need adjust to get the toe back to spec after the camber is set?
Sorry if I haven't made this clear.....if I were to just drag my butt under my car and take a good look it might be obvious and I wouldn't need to be asking this question.

Thanks. 104

The template is there to give the max range of adjustability afforded by the increased offset of the bolt. There is no realistic use for elongating the outboard holes. You only need the inboard holes.

Sort of what I was thinkng....
 

Thanks. 104

If you don't elongate in both directions, the bolt can only be turned half way in each direction. Someone not paying attention could crank on it and jimmy it up. Like if you went for an alignment and got the newbie at Firestone or some such.

You also won't be gaining the full range of toe-in.

Whether lowered on Swifts or on coilovers w/ SPL, I haven't needed the toe bolts to bring alignment within spec. Why do it if you don't need it?

You are one of the few, but many of us needed more adjustment. Or you can run camber at -2 or better front and rear without.

SPL Eccentric lockout kit question - Lockout camber arms only?
 

The "within spec" window on these cars is pretty big. So while you can get "within spec", it might not be where you really need it to be. That's why you get the toe bolts and elongate the holes.


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In my experience I did camber arms and traction arms and made my own lockout it. The 10.8 bolts are at advanced auto for like $1.50 each and I got a 1/4x2x12" bar stock of 6061 aluminium for $0.75. I just measured the space on the subframe and cut the aluminium to 1.33" squares. After everything was installed on Swift spec-Rs I could NOT achieve the numbers I wanted! My camber was fine but toe was horrible. When you adjust one it greatly effects the other. Also traction arms didn't do much but make my wheel base longer or shorter on one side or the other so I just reset them to identical length and measured wheel hub to wheel hub.

So what I did was weld all aluminium center holes closed and re drilled the squares off center. At the alignment shop we played around with the squares by rotating them 90* then playing with camber again. I got pretty damn close to what I wanted but it still wasn't perfect! I ended up buying SPL rear spring buckets and after I sold the Swifts and went true coils I sold the spring buckets and got toe links. I'm afraid for the perfect ride you need either SPL spring buckets or SPL toe links with lockout kits.

I had the SPC camber arms with toe bolts that came with it and when i went to get an alignment the mechanic could not get the toe to align. Whenever he did though the toe would slip out of spec with the slightest movement. So would it be better to with the lockout kit and SPL camber arms? Or is there some other rod I can change out to adjust toe? Really don't want SPL mid link @$700+ like OP