While any job is easy if one has the proper tools, I'd say that was money well spent.

All things considered the Z is great. The Porsche I owned previously required a special tool to do just about anything one wanted to do to the engine. So I can live with this.

So what end goes up, the tightly coiled section or the evenly spaced? I am getting swift springs installed soon and it would be good to know :tiphat:

Also, what SPL parts are necessary in the rear suspension to be able to get full toe and camber adj? Just camber arms or do you need more stuff?

Alignment and Bump Steer
 

Your "professional installer" will magically know.

I installed both the camber link and traction link. Note that these are SPL's names for the parts. Nissan calls them a front lower link and radius rod, respectively. The lower link (camber link) is to adjust camber and the radius rod (traction link) is for toe adjustment (bump steer?).

And the tightly coiled section goes up.

EDIT: Above I said the radius rod (traction link) is for toe adjustment but after further educating myself I've learned there is an eccentric bolt on the spring perch inboard connection that is used for toe adjustment in the same manner as the camber adjustment is done (stock components). From what I've read the radius rod is used to adjust bump steer but I haven't found a description of how adjusting it actually affects the action of the suspension through its travel. Not yet anyway, but I will.

EDIT: Here it is!

Yeah I had issue with the spinning shaft. But realized an impact gun solves it and once it gets tight you can hand tighten it properly.

I plan on asking the dealer how they do, special tools or whatnot, when I drop off the coils. I do know every manufacturer says specifically not to use an impact wrench to install the nut so I want to avoid that although I'm glad it worked for you.

I work in engineering so I'm interested in how they do it just to satisfy my own curiosity.

Interesting Development...
 

I called my local dealer Sterling McCall Nissan in Stafford and they refused to do any "performance related" work.

So they will not be getting ANY of my business. Ever.

They do it with an impact wrench.....LOL Never ever had an issue doing it that way.

Good for you
 

Sad, but probably true. Of course everyone is free to do what they want however they please, but those recommendations are there for a reason and I try to follow them, especially when applying torque values. I've seen what happens when the limits of materials are exceeded, and I'd rather avoid the consequences. I'm glad it's always worked out for you. :tiphat:

I did get the springs installed on the shocks. I took them to a local 4-wheel drive shop and they were more than happy to swap them out, even offered to do it while I waited and charged me $25 a strut. Took all of ten minutes.

I'll double check the torque on the nut and install, drive it around for a few days to let the springs settle in, then get an alignment. I'm anxious to see how the handling will change as well as enjoying the lowered look.

lol... especially your local dealer will not use any special tools. they'll just use their regular tools and tools doing the work and do it as fast as they can.

how tight? 3 sec zip's is the way to go :tup: <= dealer



:ugh:

Finally finished, well...
 

Apparently the hats were rotated 60 degrees off from their proper orientation. So when myself and the four guys in the shop all compared the diagram to the hats either we all misread it or the hats migrated as they sat in my garage awaiting installation. This is what it is suppose to look like:

Attachment 98074

Oh well. I didn't want to go back to the shop to realign the hats so I renewed my search for a quality compressor and found one at Summit Racing. I had it overnighted with a Saturday delivery for a total cost of $206. It's made by Specialty Tools and is everything I was looking for - a high quality, functional, and safe tool.

Attachment 98068

Next I had to figure out a way to secure the damper to work on it since doing it while it was on the floor is a struggle, especially when trying to torque the nut. Found a couple of pipe clamps used for welding at Northern Tools. They weren't cheap at $75 each but I figured I could use them for my welding projects also. They worked perfectly to hold down the assembly while I realigned the hat and torqued the nut to 44 ft lbs.

Attachment 98069

Attachment 98070

Attachment 98071

But. There always seems to be a qualifier. The coils don't line up with the rubber cup designed to hold the top of the spring. It's about 60 degrees off. I compared the Swift spring to the Nismo spring and sure enough the end of the coils are different by 60 degrees. The rubber cup could probably be rotated but it's designed with indentations that fit around the bolts and it would have to be rotated 120 degrees to fit - 60 degrees would be in between and it wouldn't sit properly. Bummer. In the following pics you can see the 2" gap between the end of the spring and the end of the spring groove in the rubber grommet.

Attachment 98072

Attachment 98073

I installed all back on the car and it drives great, no pops, creaks, or squeaks. It rides smoother than the stiff Nismo springs and turns really well, probably due to the increased camber. But I'm not really happy with the fit, so I purchased a set of BC ER type coilovers with the Swift spring option. Should be here in two to three weeks so I'll just wait on the alignment till then.

Attachment 98095

I do have a really well made and safe spring compressor now though. I'd like to offer its use to any local forum member that needs to replace their springs - just PM me and I'll hook you up.

Man, this spring install really kicked your butt, not to mention how much extra money you had to spend in tools, lol. I've done spring installs several times, and I also screwed up by having the hat in the wrong orientation. That is really frustrating to say the least. I always rent a spring compressor set from O'Reileys.

Yeah, I did my Mini with the original compressor, the one I had to cut off, and it went without a hitch. I think the Z springs were much stiffer and the compressor didn't handle it as well. I did try several different kinds but the one I have now is a high quality product - fast, easy, and safe.

Hmm, that is not impressive. The springs should fit in the hats properly. Did you call Swift on it? Wonder if the hats were mixed up from left to right.

Good point and a valid question. I'll try reversing them when I remove for the coilover install and see if it makes any difference.