Nissan 370Z Forum - Z Cars Prone to Pad Deposit?

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- - Z Cars Prone to Pad Deposit? (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/88083-z-cars-prone-pad-deposit.html)

Just replaced my rotors at 28k miles after a lot of autocross and track driving

I used compressed air to clear out the brake dust every 2 weeks,no problem so far.

As long as we're going over best practices: another thing to do is invest in a cheap dial gauge (e.g. Amazon.com: Woodstock D3207 Magnetic Base with Dial Indicator in Case: Home Improvement ). When you first mount the rotor, put a couple lugnuts on medium-tight and spin the rotor on the hub against the dial gauge and check the total runout (min<->max reading difference). Then basically re-mount it in the other 4 positions (one lug-hole off each other) and measure again, and choose the mounting position with the least runout. What you're doing, basically, is making sure the small mfg variances in both the hub and the rotor are cancelling out rather than adding up (kinda like what they do with wheels and tires at a good tire mounting place).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eagle (Post 2754690)

This is key...holding the brake pedal down after heating up your pads will inevitabley cause your pads to melt and transfer ALOT of material to the rotor. Same goes for the parking brake, don't put your parking brake up!

Your rotors won't get warped, the correct term is "glazed". Also, this is not just a problem with our cars, this is a problem you could experience on just about any car if you drive it hard enough.

I think you hit the nail on the head with this one... I'm pretty diligent about getting my brakes up to temperature before making them work hard, but I think I need to be better with giving them time to cool off. I'm pretty confident that alone will make a huge difference alone.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joepro (Post 2755110)

I go through rotors like its my job, already getting a slight shake out of my Z1 2 piece rotors, Went through the stock set and and set of R1 concepts rotors already in 17k miles...we just got a new lathe at work, a pro-cut on car warthog, it will machine the rotor to the hub, that is in the near future for all 4 of my not so old rotors. I think it goes hand in hand with the brake cooling issues on this car, they get hot really fast and that is a contributing factor for sure.

Are you getting spider webbing or cracking the rotors completely? You shouldn't be going through rotors that fast... Not even close. I know Koni Challenge series cars that are using only a few sets of brake discs over the course of a full season of racing, which is way more abuse than we are doing with HPDE, AutoX or time attack use if that's your thing.

My '09 wasn't at all. Even on my GT30's....very little.

I drive the living $#!/ out of my car as well, im not easy on thy brakes at all...after I machine them I will make an above and beyond effort to bed them abd be easy for a,few hundred miles.

Oh and most rotors are gray iron not steel similar but yet not! The r 1 rotors I spider cracked on the front only rears were so out after three passes in the lathe I tossed them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joepro (Post 2755448)

I drive the living $#!/ out of my car as well, im not easy on thy brakes at all...after I machine them I will make an above and beyond effort to bed them abd be easy for a,few hundred miles.

Sounds like you would benefit big time from some cooling upgrades... May save yourself some $ on brake discs. Proper warming up and cooling down procedures as well may help. Full weight street car is tough on brakes, especially if you run courses with long straights.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joepro (Post 2755454)

Oh and most rotors are gray iron not steel similar but yet not! The r 1 rotors I spider cracked on the front only rears were so out after three passes in the lathe I tossed them.

Alot of the oem rotors are made from powdered iron.