Yea, with the tie rod ends. That's the only thing adjustable on a stock front end.

Is there typically enough adjustment to get it as close to zero as possible with swift lowering springs and camber arms to get back to stock camber?

To adjust the front toe with the tie rod ends. No problem. Stock upper arms are non-adjustable for camber.

I'm so torn on what front arms to get. I am on bc coils and need a set. I love my spc rears and currently am not tracking. Ams and kinetix have awful reviews, but I fear the possibility of slipping with spc.

What are the bad reviews on the kinetix?

There are none. Just people bitching that its not made of gold. I've never seen a failure or complaint against performance. Just that they don't like it or "it doesn't look ideal" wtf that's supposed to mean. If it doesn't break and it adjust camber what do you want? Unless you need caster adjust etc in a $800 SPL arm.

Let me rephrase. Not necessarily the kinetic having a bad review, but the ams being a knob off. It's basically half the price.

Do I spend $335 on spc or $179 on ams?

Does anyone have the recommended bushings and tie rod bearing to swap out on the ams arms?

In a world of "you get what you pay for", I could not justify spending $179 on front camber arms.

I'd say both the kinetix and spc look good enough though, with the edge on the SPC because they have a huge market of people that actually use them. If I ONLY see one or two bad reviews out of the 100s of people that run them, then I think they are doing OK. From a quality standpoint, 99% FPQ is pretty damn good for mechanical items. My only gripe is KINETIX website is AWFUL, which is a big factor on my personal peace of mind.

If you are tracking your car though, $700 for front camber arms is CHUMP CHANGE compared to the grand scheme of things when you do anything on the track. A few track sessions alone punts you up to $700 easily.

I plan on buying ams, checking the welds and reenforcing them if need be. On the bends I might weld a bracket or rod from end to end to make a triangle part. Steels steel so I'm sure they'll be tough. Better to have them steel than aluminium you have no idea how it was made. The bushings are definitely getting replaced with the delrin? Or something? And the tie rod end can be replaced anytime which again ill replace because both ams and kinetix look like they're cast and forged/milled is better/stronger like SPL...

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps70458930.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc2117702.jpg

When done I may have kinetix money into it but it will be much better.

I agree id rather have cheap steel over cheap aluminum but not sure what "steels steel" is referring to, since not all steel is the same


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I just mean I'm sure its a mild steel tube. To me milds milds. Yes cold rolled is a little stronger than hot rolled, but for this part here, that U shape will be more than fine in either mild.

Now if talking SS or heat treated armour plated mild, then yes, huge difference.

Yup just givin ya a hard time because i saw your awesome build skills on your thread :). What would your personal recommendation be for the less tech savvy less diy person who at most would be street driving about 98% of the time (clearly id spring for spl if i tracked) : kinetix or spc front camber arms?



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Neither. Ams. Both it and the kinetix use mild steel and poly bushings. If you aren't going to replace the bushings and tie rod end, then why pay double for kinetix?

You guys talk about the tie rod end. It has nothing to do with it. It's the upper ball-joint. ;)

Technically its a tie rod end. A ball joint is a ball in a joint. These have a half ball with a rod seated in that's secured with a bolt on top. But I think you knew that and were being funny.

Tie rod

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psf23a5f38.jpg

Ball joint

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psd01dbc6f.jpg