I agree and putting a sharp angle (Threads) is almost a crack shipped from the factory. I took a look at the design and promptly ordered SPL. With the roads we have in the US, you don't need to track to have one fail. It's my life and I'll be damned if I'll take the chance for $100. :gtfo2:

:tup: but they're heavier.

Good move!:tup: you got a great quality part from a great quality vendor. SPL are the absolute best quality you can get plus you're supporting a company that doesn't rip off others hard work and R&D by having cheap crappy knock offs made in China like some other brands/companies. If $100 extra breaks the bank for some people, they bought the wrong car. Congrats on your SPL parts.

oh? I thought SPL would be lighter than SPC for it being titanium and hollow.. haha

Not titanium, if it was it would be... $1000~

It's the titanium line

I've been eyeing between the two and I'm going to go with the SPL's way more solid of a design and like I heard someone say earlier. Guys dish out money for wheels or exhaust because of minute differences. Suspension is a big deal, and going cheap just costs more in the long run.

The main reason why I went with spl is durability and even if it's a slight chance of the spc arms snapping it's too much of a risk for me because I would hate to see me crash my beautiful car because I went on the cheap side.

Only the big nut, little screw and silver threaded shaft going into the arm are titanium. The arm is 4130 chromemoly steel, the locking collar and little pyramid things the bolt goes through is aluminium, and the toe rod end is forged harder steel, probably 4130 also.

haha that explains it then.

I first thought they were steel and had another line up of titanium because it seemed too cheap, but then saw the description saying titanium after i ordered it.. lol

anyone had those for a long time? how noisy is the bearing?

to those that have had the spc arms break where did they break? at the threads, at the welds, what?

Right below the landing strip ;)

Jk, i dunno, I bought SPL

very helpful really, now any of the guys who actually had them and they failed care to give their input? It makes me curious if it is an alloy or a design issue.

Anybody chiming in on this? I plan to purchase the SPC camber kit as I feel the SPL might be over kill for a dd and weekend drag strip vehicle.

I'm super hard on my suspension and haven't had an issue at all. I've even snapped my end link. SPC is solid.

So does SPL make toe bolts as well? Or only SPC

SPC toe bolts will work fine :tup:

Only SPC

Thank u DE


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Year and a half, about 14 autocross events, 3 HPDE and my SPC hasn't had any issues. No experience with SPL but looks like a great (read: expensive) product.

So for swift springs am I going to need camber arms as well? I mean I hear just toe bolts will work but won't I have so bad camber that gonna drive bad and wear the tire bad as well


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When I had the springs installed the alignment specs weren't terrible. Like -2.3 in the rear and -1.8 up front so unless you are driving crazy miles per day like I am tire wear shouldn't be that much of an issue. And as for toe I don't think anything moved at all.

So is SPL lock out kit the same as spc toe bolts? http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...92ceeed06e.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...8d200c3452.jpg


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Negative ghost rider. The lockout kit makes sure the specs don't budge, the toe boots adjust toe. Complety different.

So do I also need the lock out kit on top of the toe bolts and the camber arms?


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Yes. I can sell you a set of lockouts for $25 shipped

Spl?


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New?


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Not SPL, DE.50 brand, yes new

Ok this is the only thread I can find on camber kits,

here we go..

I'm looking into camber kit for my Z and everyone says SPL are the best and the way to go. I might track the car but for now its a fun street car. That being said people on here said there is about a $100.00 difference between the SPL and SPC brands... I call B.S. flag on the play..

The prices I have found..

SPC
92.00 Rear
400.00 front


SPL
800.00 front
300 Rear...

Can someone please explain this to me????

For sure spend the extra $ for the rear. I hear you on the cost of the fronts, I really like the new Z1 front arms. I haven't got a set yet but plan to get the track version at some point.
I tried going the cheaper route, car drove like my 96 beater Ranger. I took the junk off, sent it back, got a credit towards sway bars, put SPL on the back (from Z1) and OEM back on the front...back to normal. 2cents

Yu don't by chance know how much Z1 front arms are do you? my computer wont load the website..

$288 Street, $308 Race.

You get what you paid for. With the Z1 upper control arms. You have to remove them to make adjustments. With the SPL's. You don't. To adjust the SPL's. Loosen the pinch bolts from under the Z. Stick a socket with a long extension over the tire. Camber and caster adjusted. With the Z1. Remove tire, pop the upper ball off the spindle, turn ball joint to adjust for camber. To do camber and caster. Remove arm from car, turn the bushings or bearings.

Every time I have had my alignment done and it's done at the same shop each time the tech says I just love front arms, they are bullet proof and so easy to adjust.

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SPC for 4yrs on coilovers and very spirited driving...no issues.

Are there any documented cases where SPC has failed and broke?

Oh....YEA! Left rear suspension. Search. It even has pictures of the damage. :eek: And there is a few more that people have been lucky. Here's one thread.

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...urability.html

And another.

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...-parts-16.html

Suspension arms shouldn't break, let alone snapping in half while driving. Consider it a safety precaution. Aftermarket doesn't always mean upgrade. Suspension arms failure will be a costly repair, especially if they fail during high speed.

Didn't want to start a new thread so if anyone can chime in.

Getting new 370z. Going to lower it on swifts + spl front/rear camber + spl lockout kit + spc rear toe bolt.

Now 3-4 few years down the road I may want to switch to coilovers. Would my current spl/spc setup still work? Would it be advisable to purchase brand new set? If I go coilovers will spc rear toe bolt still work or would I need to swap that to spl rear toe arm links?

This will be a DD. Doubt i'll track the car but If I do, won't be more than once or twice a year.

Thanks ^^

Your good. Everything rolls over. SPL is the best SPC is only good for toe bolts. Front SPL camber arms aren't necessary and not a lot run it


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