SPL Suspension help, KW coilovers V3
 

Gonna slap on some KW v3 coilovers on my 370, to replace these eibach pro springs.

KW are not traditional coilovers in the rear, the coil and damper are seperate.

I will be installing SPL camber arms (currently my ride hite at 0.8 drop front, 0.9 drop rear with the eibach springs), will not allow me to adjust the camber to anyfurther than -2.7 with stock camber bolts / setup. So SPL are a must (and best from what I hear). Will keep the coilover ride height around sam hight or hair shorter.

Now, after the camber adjustment I may run into some toe problems. Most people ar installing SPL (or SPC or DME or other brand names) camber arms with SPC toe bolts, which requre you to bore out the ecentric holes where the stock toe bolts are.

I Called SPL, they said to adjust toe, use toe bolts (potential for slipage), buy toe arms (only available for 'true/tranditional" coilover setup in the rear (KW are not), OR buy the midlink (formally only offered for the 350z, now being sold for 370z (only just that they have not updated their website yet - after final measurments and testing has now been completed).

I would potnetially love to use the mid link at some point with the eccentric lock out bolts that they sell.

However, MY QUESTION if in the meantime I just use the SPL camber arms with aftermarket toe (SPC) bolts, will the larger eccentric hole not allow me to install the SPL eccentric lockout bolts in the future (after upgrading the SPL midlinks - which I might add will probably be about 700 - 800 bucks)?

PLEASE LET ME KNOW! Got to get this Z in top notch performance so I can beat all u guys! lol:excited:

bump

Even if you bore out the eccentric holes for toe, you will still be able to use the lockout kit in the future. I did the same thing with my 350z. The eccentric holes have nothing to do with the lockout kit, as the kit uses square type washers that prevent the bolt from "slipping".

nice.

did u ever have any slippage problems with the toe bolts before? What type of driving were/are you doing? You now have the SPL midlinks? How do you like them? and what type of suspension set up are u using?

:)

sorry so many questions, input from those whom have cam before me will help alot with my setup

thanks:tiphat::tiphat:

bump

It's not the KWs.
 

It's not that the KWs are peculiar; any other brand would have the same configuration in the rear (on the Z or any car with similar set-up). We have double wishbones in front, which take a standard coilover, and a multilink suspension in the rear, hence the separation of the damper and spring. :driving:

Will the KW springs fit in the SPL mid links?

Says its accepts 2.5"... thought the KWs were wider.

I don't buy the slippage argument unless you are going with huge slicks. Just use the stock toe adjustment and go with SPL camber arms and call it a day.
If you find you really are having slippage issues then get the lockout kit and go with thier fancy mid arm and get 2.5" Eibach ERS race springs for back there.

^Depending on the drop, the stock toe bolts will not suffice. I strongly suggest installing the toe bolts along with the camber arms, as the toe will not get back into spec with anything more than a light drop.

This will also contribute to bump steer in the rear, which is bad enough as it is.

Good info on the bump steer but he isn't dropping it that much. I have a similar drop to him (less than an inch) and I was able to get both camber and toe within spec with the stock adjustments.

this thread is years old. since then i have installed the v3's, the spl camber arms were a must to get camber back where i wanted it (less negative). installed some hotchkis sways, spc toe bolts and called it a day. no camber arms were needed in the front only the rear.

now I have:

stillen g3
fast intentions hfc resonated
hks dual hi power exhaust

z1 25 row oil cooler

kw v3
hotchkis sway
spl camber arm
spc toe bolt

z1 silicone hoses for radiatior, intakes, heater core, etc
z1 hood struts

r35 start button
hard wired escort 9500 to mirror
fairlady emblem
nissan foglight light mod to running lights

vossen rims with potenza tires

window tint
and others on the way. thanks to all the forums and members who have helped me with my build and it continues

You only need the lock out kit if you track your car,regular street driving won't change it.

Lock out bolts would be good if true style coilovers are install and spring buckets are replaced with SPL toe arms.

SPL PRO SUSPENSION | 09+ Nissan 370Z Z34

http://cdn.splparts.com/large/SPLRMLZ33_3.JPG

arnt you looking for these then?

Not for $800 buck :shakes head:

I'm running into this same problem now. Got Tein Monoflex coil overs but the springs are too wide to fit the SPL Midlinks. Apparently even the stock springs are too wide for the SPL Midlinks. You have to have 2.5 inch diameter springs to work with the mid links from SPL. Tein makes this size but of course it takes 3 months to get them from Japan. Lovely. Will have to use a different brand.

You can always get some Swift Springs to fit your SPL mid links. ;)

Swift Springs USA

2.56" ID springs available in lengths from 5" to 11". Various spring rates as well.

That is what I did. Got the Swift 2.5 inch springs in 12K, 7 inch length.

Hey Ent, had a question regarding the spring length selection on the SPL midlink.

Do you have to raise the midlink the full 3"?

How far from OEM does that leave you lowered, by my calcs that must be almost 2.5".

Well I did not do the install myself so this information is based on conversations I had with my installer along the way. I think the location of where the spring sits in the SPL mid link is higher than the stock mounting location. So he measured it out with adjustment in the middle on the SPL mid link and there was about 7" of space so we went with the 7" spring length. I ended up with a 0.5 inch drop overall from the Nismo spring that was on there before (which I believe is about 12" length). This was also the spring length recommended by SPL to keep stock height. So I can still lower the rear an additional 1.5 inches (total 2 inch drop) or raise it up 1 inch higher than it was before. Does that help?

This does help.

I have a 2010 370Z touring roadster with sports package, convertible. I recently got all of the below and ran into issues on height for the rear.

KW Variant 3 Coil-overs
Hotchkis 370z front sway bar
SPL PRO Front Upper Camber/Caster Arms
SPL PRO Front End Links Spherical

SPL TITANIUM Rear Mid Links
SPL TITANIUM Rear Camber Arms

SPL Eccentric lockout kit
Swift Springs 65mm 7inch 9k
Swift Helper Springs H65-070-008

When I talked to KW they told me that you really should have helper springs on the rear but that added 2 inches of length/height. Without the helper spring I have about a 1 1/2 inch wheel gap and only 3/4 of an inch I can go down on the SPL midlink cup. When you add the suggested helper spring, that adds 2 more inches to the gap. Do I need to go to a 5" or 6" spring? All I am aiming for is to get rid of the wheel gap. A shop did the work and is going to swap out whatever spring I get but they really are not sure what spring length I should go with.