Help with alignment please.
 

I just went in to get my camber knocked back more positive because the inside tread of my Hankook V12's on the rears were getting murdered. The outer half of the tires seemed to be not that bad.

Anyway, if you look at the picture it will say the rear camber was -1.6 on the left wheel and -2.3 on the right. They changed it to -1.3 and -1.7. They said they couldn't go any more positive on the right wheel. Which confused me because how the hell did they get the left wheel -1.3? I'd really like to get both tires to about -1.3.

Also if you look at the fronts, they are (L: -0.3) and (R:-1.1). They said they were unable to change it because they didn't have the right tools or they didn't know how to do it. I have a raincheck with them for a free "re-alignment" next Sunday. Is there any knowledge or suggestions I can take back there to tell them?

My goals are:
Front: (L:-0.5) (R:-0.5)
Rear: (L:-1.3'ish') (R:-1.3'ish')

Thank you guys.


Click on picture.
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x.../th_camber.jpg

You should look at toe setting that's what wears the tires. Your camber setting was ok. Maybe you had too much toe out?

This link might be helpful.

Nismo Alignment Specs

Do you have springs/coilovers?

Nope, stock Nismo shocks and springs.

Thanks for the link but it wasn't that helpful, sorry.

I'm trying to even out my whole alignment issue so both and the left sides are even with each other and perfect.

It's not unusual to have different left and right setting. If you adjust the camber to match the other side then the toe is off and vice versa.

Got it now, I didn't really understand your first post. Quite frankly alignment should be straightforward, if the guys are the shop don't know what to do, I would get my money refunded and get the alignment issue taken care elsewhere.

you hit any curbs recently?

I have once. It was the right rear, and if anything it would've kicked the rear inwards creating more of a positive camber correct?

All sorts of weird stuff can happen after hitting a curb.


It appears everything is within spec. There shouldn't be any problem as a result of things being left as they are...I probably wouldn't worry about it too much.

You don't really have any leverage over the shop, since:
a) you hit a curb
b) they technically got it within spec.


I'd probably go to a different shop next time though.

It was a low speed incident and I didn't hit it sideways, I more or less crawled onto the curb at an angle. But any curbing is not ideal.

Judging by the alignment specs you are trying to achieve you will have to get front and rear Camber arms before you get another alignment.

also, front camber is not adjustable.

Then why is stock fronts -.58? I'd love to have those specs up front. Stock rear would be nice too, -1.58.

You shouldn't have more than a .5 (half of a degree)difference in camber between left and right.

I can't explain why you have these difference,you just shouldn't

I installed spc front and rear camber arms and got my alignment to(I did my own)

front left -1.3 right -1.5
rear left -1.8 right -1.8

I did my own alignment and added .2 + camber to the right front to compensate for road crown,my point is you can put your alignment any where you want with these arms just cause it came from the factory doesn't mean it's right it just means it is in spec.:tiphat:

^You have the same specs I do. Get your front wheels yet?

Friday via UPS

Hmm so I guess I should get those camber arms. I really want:

front left -0.5 right -0.5
rear left -1.3 right -1.3

Mainly because I hate uneven tire wear.

Your tires will last longer with your specs but won't handle as good.

Very true. The alignments we both have are great. You'll still get great wear and traction for those spirted days.

That's why I chose those numbers. -1.3 in the rear can handle the track. And it won't be too aggressive to street drive and annihilate the inner tire. I just went through both of my Hankook V12's because the bands were showing on the inner tire and the outsides were >50%... lol.

The problem is going to be the .5 in the front for as the body rolls in a corner, the suspension must deflect vertically some distance and .5 is just not enough. I think your a little paranoid due to your already mishap.

:iagree:

I am. I don't want a round 2 of said mishap! Haha. It could deal with -1.0F and -1.5R. But it looks as if I can't achieve this with my stock equipment.

-1.0 in front and -1.5 rear is not bad for both handling and wear but it still sounds like you need front and rear camber arms.

The excessive wear was likely due to the toe settings. It is hard to see from my phone, but it seems like they were out of whack. You will probably be ok now that they are in line.

I run ~2.3 degrees of camber, with no camber wear after 5k miles.





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Well that's good. I tend to spin my wheels a bit. I drift at tracks, and sometimes I can't help but engage a little bit on roads. I still would like to get it to -1F and -1.5R. If there is no way to do this with what I have, can someone point me in the direction I need to get the proper equipment?

:iagree:

my front camber for right and left is almost identical. like a 0.1 difference maybe