I think you mean Carbotech Performance Brakes :)

THMotorsports has it at like a 5 or 10% discount, they just drop ship theirs I think.

^ thanks, but I have a feeling you got the website wrong. I got the right one though. Here it is for anyone else interested.
http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp?Make=Nissan

XP10 all around or XP10 front /XP8 rear?

I appreciate the help folks.

Got mine from Carbotech directly too. Went with XP10 front/ XP8 rear.

I've been using them on the street as well due to laziness and reluctance to swap. I notice the rear rotors are hotter than the front after aggressive drives. I'd be reluctant to go with XP10 rear.

TiSpeed Titanium Brake Backing Plate Heat Shield Shims Improve Your Braking Performance

What backing plates are people using? If any? I'd be curious to see if these made any difference. Supposedly it keeps the heat transfer between the pad and rotor (thus fluid) at a minimum.

Race Track Testimonial : TiSpeed Titanium Brake Backing Plate Heat Shields, Improve Brake Performance, Reduce Brake Fade and Extend Brake Fluid Life

Now why does that name look familiar...

I think you mean pad and caliper. Their testing methods were pretty lame, I would be interested to see some real world data.

Thanks for the info sir. I will most likely be too lazy to switch them out too.

That's the one!!! Close...

Easy to do business with...XP10fr/XP8r

The Z seems to be more rear bias than most cars, but with ABS I dont see the problem with XP10 all around

My Ghetto-Brake Ducts
 

And for your viewing pleasure...

My ghetto-brake ducts.

How did you connect it to the fascia?

In the same way ModShack did in his forced air fang ducts.

I have some friends that are trying this part out on the stock C6 Z06 brakes. A few of them have been cooking calipers as well.

Edit: found this gem on their testimonial - look familiar?

Why cause its Mike?

Yeah, it was just kind of random. Mike never mentioned using these anywhere else that I'm aware of.

Hehe, by the way, re-reading my post I was thinking: did I really write that?

"Why, because it's Mike?"

No he never mentioned it, but maybe that was for the 350z and he just never thought about bringing it up? or maybe he has but we missed it?

It was for the Berk 135i Time Attack car. On their first outing they had a horrible time with boiling brake fluid and had to bleed the brakes after every session. I'm guessing they added these to try and help out with that problem.

Not sure about other pads but Carbotechs don't use shims.

Lots of track pads don't, but that doesn't mean you can't use them as long as the shim fits. I guess it could be a little tight with brand new pads in some cases.

The shims are primarily use for noise reduction. Actually I love driving on the street with the XP10, I just hate the dust it produced and the noise. I wonder if shims would help

Hallelujah!
 

It worked!

No Ice Mode!

I was at the Summit Point Main Circuit on Friday and my Z withstood multiple stops from 125 mph without ice mode occurring on any of my four track sessions. The weather was hot and sticky with the track rapidly heating up as the day went on.

If you remember, I was at S.P.M a couple of weeks ago and encountered ice mode on three occasions in cool weather.

The difference was:

1. I switched from Porterfield R4 brake compounds to CarboTech XP10 in front and XP8 in rear (which I think helped but other members have experienced ice mode with CarboTech pads). Don't get me wrong, these pads are the best I have ever used, anyone want to buy a set of Porterfields? One more thing...YOU NEED CARBOTECH PADS! However, I suspect ice mode is more related to heat then pad failure.

2. Castrol SRF brake fluid. This stuff is $80 per liter. That was not a misprint! It has a insanely high wet boiling point.

3. Brake cooling ducts. I suspect this is what really solved the ice mode problem. My ducts are based on ModShack's forced air fang ducts. Using that as a staring point, you need to remove all the side radiator baffling to route the tubing and cut material away from the plastic wheel well covers to rout the 2.5 inch brake hose. On the passenger side this required dremel tooling a portion of the coolant/washer fluid support bracket. Zip tie the end of the tubing to the lower portion of the shock absorber pointing at the caliper. Now bolt up your wheels and check for rubbing. If you have rubbing simply take your foot and push on the tubing to flatten it out.

In conclusion, whatever created the ice mode problem was probably a result of the heat caused by a total lack of air flow to the inside of the wheels. Fix that issue and I believe its problem solved.

You sure you weren't feeling brake fade? I hit ice mode in autox today without overheating my pads at all.

Yeah I hit ice mode on moderately warm brakes. There are too many changed variables to label it as one cause. You changed brake compounds on both front and rear and that could have played a HUGE role! I am glad the problem is solved for you but the verdict is still out as to what is really causing ice mode and I am pretty sure it's not heat related but... I could be wrong.

had viscous amounts of smoke coming off my brakes today at Spring Mountain and no ice mode! I credit the ridiculously stiff springs (#1100) which I love!

so travis changed springs and problem solved... and resipsa changed pads/fluids and added brake coolers to solve the problem...

So... if that's the solution, then what was happening was one wheel would compress hard, allowing one of the other corners to lift off?

I took temperature readings yesterday at the auto-x but the day was cooler and the wind was strong. No ice-mode today. Peak rotor temperatures were a mild 350F and calipers were only 220F. There were some ABS skips but that was purely because of the sudden weight transfer.

Interesting results by both Travis and ResIpsa.

What difference did you notice the most with the new springs Travis other than a stiffer ride?

don't want to get too far off-topic, but for a dedicated track car 18k/16k seems like the place to be... car was much grippier and I was able to hold higher lateral g's with more stability... it gave me the confidence to carry A LOT more speed into high speed corners and I knew exactly how much grip i had left... and knowing where we are relative to the limit (and side of the track!) is what it's all about

How high do you think you could go in a streetable car before it starts to break my back? I don't do that many highway miles in general, but need to be able to drive a few hundred to the track.

for this car, I'd guess prob 14/12 or thereabouts... 12/10 was fine on the street for me... 18/16 would be pushing it, I think... btw, as you may know, what matters is "effective wheel spring rate"... wheel rate is determined by the geometry of the suspension and the spring rate... so, if you get input from other car types, their feedback may not apply

Anyone tried leaving the front pads alone and only upgrading the rears to try and adjust the brake bias? We had to do this in my miata because of excessive lock-up. It mightbtrick the computer into laying off the ice modeandtaking some of the stress and heat build-up off the front brakes.

I tried using a more aggressive pad in the rear only but it didn't help other than making the rear lock up prematurely. The stock bias already favors the rear somewhat and then it uses ABS to dial out rear lockup.

Cross-post from my journal... this setup is compatible with the OEM fascia and draws air from outside the 'fangs'

And the long-awaited brake cooling setup! If you're interested in this, and we all should be given how inadequate the air flow is on our front brakes, suggest you contact Chet at SRD Performance of Tempe, AZ Ph: 480-317-0090 or e-mail: sales@superiorracing.com

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...15_reduced.jpg
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...16_reduced.jpg
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...14_reduced.jpg
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...13_reduced.jpg

Will You Sell The Spindle Ducts Separately?
 

Looks like you developed the missing piece to my DIY brake cooling ducts. I was wondering how you could fabricate the spindle ducts with the design of our front suspension.

Will you sell the spindle ducts separately?

And you should start a separate thread for your kit.

Very nice

Glad you like it... I make no money off this kit and have no intention of promoting it other than to post it here and in my journal... which is done. Not sure if Chet/SRD plans to come on here and answer questions about it, and in fact he may not even offer it as a kit. If anyone is interested, suggest you contact Chet directly at the # I posted above.

When I talked to Chet he didn't say anything definite but he indicated that he may offer it as a kit after Travis tests it out successfully. So basically we're all sitting around on our thumbs until Travis gets his butt back on track. :tup:

But please do drop Chet an email so that he knows the interest is there.

Sent them an email to show some support :).

This looks like a nice solution for the fronts. However, do we need to address the rear brake cooling as well?