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then just raise the car a little bit (usually tires can stay on the ground) until you can get the second jack under the front brace. some folks use 2x4's or low profile ramps and drive onto it to get more clearance for the front jack point. that works great too, but kind of a hassle imho. then use your jack stands at the factory jack points. for the rear just use the diff. i use this for my knees. :icon17: http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/Grio...51400?$detail$ Knee Pleaser - Specialty Tools - Tools - Griot's Garage |
My car is lowered about the same as yours Jeff and it clears no problem. The aluminum jacks are nice because you can easily pick them up without giving yourself a hernia.
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yah, unlike the ac hydraulics and other highend jacks this aluminum jack is very light weight and the handle collapses in the middle so you can use it in tight space.
the higher end ones has a one piece long handle and actually pretty clumsy to use unless you have a big garage. |
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:wtf2: tmi..
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Glad you got it figured out and BC was helpful.
I have the HF racing jack as well w/ no troubles. |
ok so i just went to sears and bought this.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more fits under the car at the rear diff, and the 4 jack points along the side rails. I don't think it will reach the front center jack point though. You think i should take it back and get this one? Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more i think that would reach the center jack point up front. In which case it would take me about 2-3 mins to get my car on 2 jack stands at a time, as opposed to, really long. |
I don't think that will reach the front jacking point, you would need something double the length of the harbor freight hydro jack as that is the one I have and leaving clearance aside, would need to be 30 inches long at least.
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update: as of yesterday afternoon BC Racing had already shipped my new springs. So, within about 4 hours of realizing thats what i needed, it was already out the door. :tup:
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nnnn.... the only sears hydaulic i trust is the $20 toy one... which i have in my garage on display. :D
sears use to have decent jacks over a decade ago but the recent ones leak and dont last very long. the harborfreight one i have is over 3yrs old and no issue on either of them. |
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the thing only cost me 120 bucks b/c i had some amex gift cards, so if i only get a few years out of it its all good. i'm gonna need it for this weekend when i replace my springs. Do i need some kind of cover to put over the jack stands, or can i just put them along the rail at the jack points as is? i have this kind: http://www.broadline.com.my/files/ca...jack_stand.bmp |
jeff- well, it could be that the one i got (a long with several car guys on other forums) were just a bad batch, but im not going to be buying another craftsman jack anytime soon. :D
i think they sell rubber covers for the jackstands, but you can use a towel and such not to scuff up your car if you care. the stands i have have a flat platform at the top and use a piece of block not to rest the car on the railing itself but the little bump behind the rail where the factory jack would rest on. nissan sells rubber adapters too. might want to check with your dealer or courtesyparts.com but they probably wont work with the jack stands you show in that pict. i also have a rubbercover for my other jack stands and usually it just fits without the wood block behind the railing. :) |
I bought the rubber covers to slip on over the tops of the jack stands and they work very well, super cheap from Harbor Freight too! I honestly just use two regular scissor jacks to raise the front end up enough to get the hydro jack underneath and then use that until the jack stands can slip under the car.
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worked on installing the 230mm springs today. finally got it right. although this was frustrating, i'm glad i did it myself b/c now i know how to do this. The ride is pretty much the same as with the 210mm springs except there is no noise at all. i fixed it so there is enough preload and the ride height is the same as it was before. When i initially put the springs in and adjusted the spring perches to what i thought would compensate for the addional spring length, my car had like 2 inches of wheel gap. but now all i can say is Mission accomplished.
looking back i think i could have done it in an hour were it not for the trial and error required to get the ride height correct. http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1294523476 http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1294523476 |
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Sorry to bring this thread from the dead.... But I have BC Coilovers and I experience this Clunk as well. I do not have after market sways.
It sounds as if the spring is popping in and out in the rear. However I have my Coils with the 230MM Spring and I'm lowered about 1.25. It seems to go away once suspension or car warms up. I Have no clue what it is, but any ideas/input would be great. |
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i'm experience a similar problem here. After installing my megan racing coilover, there was a metal cranking noise. First, I thought something was loose and after re-intstalling to correct the mistake, the noise is yet gone. I'm very frustrated and I don't know if I should go with another brand or just deal with reality that coilover isn't meant to be here. Again, I don't know what causes this. I don't know if changing from a coilover to a spring would help? So guys feel free to leave me some tips or comments.
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on bumps or on bumpy road surface. It's very sensitive.
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im sooo glad this thread was created haha.. i just installed my BCs the other day and my car is making that same rattle..clunk.. bump.. etc.. in the passenger rear, i TOATALLY agree that noise bugs the hell out of me.. first thing i thought was somethings not torqued down all the way. but i checked and double checked all of that and now i can go back and look at all the things posted here and probably solve the problem in one far swoop :) im sorry this was such a huge situation for you to have to deal with. But im glad you got it figured out and i hope i can do the same... Thanks for all the imput, everybody! I love this forum :)
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Maybe upper ball joint? Throw some grease on there, u might be changing the angle of the ball joint-upper control arm angle?
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