Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   -   H&R Springs Anyone ? (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/16130-h-r-springs-anyone.html)

kevr6 04-04-2010 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twotonezed (Post 480271)
When you got it aligned did you already have an aftermarket alignment kit or is the suspension adjustable enough to get it back to specs? The drop looks great but I am concerned that the springs won't cost me $250 but $750 due to having to get a front and rear alignment kit with it.

I have the rear camber kit only. You can get away with the fronts as is.

speedworks 04-04-2010 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6 (Post 480544)
I have the rear camber kit only. You can get away with the fronts as is.

Looks great. Were you able to get OEM specs in the front?

kevr6 04-04-2010 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedworks (Post 480712)
Looks great. Were you able to get OEM specs in the front?

Just a few degrees off. The rears wore out quicker then the fronts and my front wear has been ok. The rears were wearing on the inside more. I put new tires on the rear and was able get extremely close to stock specs on the rear! Now to watch the wear! :driving:

Bster 04-05-2010 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6 (Post 480024)
The springs come wrapped. I did use a spring compressor. The rears actually should sit a few millimeters higher but I left out the lower rubber pad that sits beneath the rear spring. I wanted it as low as possible! ;)

Thanks guys!! :driving:

Hi Kevr6,

The ride height is certainly what I'm after! However, it is safe not to install the lower rubber pad?
Please pardon my ignorance.

:tiphat:

kevr6 04-05-2010 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bster (Post 481375)
Hi Kevr6,

The ride height is certainly what I'm after! However, it is safe not to install the lower rubber pad?
Please pardon my ignorance.

:tiphat:

So far I've had no problems. The base is contoured for the spring so I don't feel there will be any movement. This is how my wife's TT rear spring sits. If you leave it in it won't make that much of a difference anyway.

Bster 04-05-2010 06:10 AM

Coool... did you get them from a vendor on this forum?

docaam 04-05-2010 06:55 AM

kevr6...very nice stance or your car :)

can you pm me where to get these rear spats from? and offset of your wheels

jmlenz 04-05-2010 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6 (Post 481470)
So far I've had no problems. The base is contoured for the spring so I don't feel there will be any movement. This is how my wife's TT rear spring sits. If you leave it in it won't make that much of a difference anyway.

Nice stance Kev...looks pretty similar to the Megan stance. Are you getting any noise/chatter from the rear spring due to the lack of lower rubber seat? Thats what I would be most concerned with.

speedworks 04-05-2010 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6 (Post 480798)
Just a few degrees off. The rears wore out quicker then the fronts and my front wear has been ok. The rears were wearing on the inside more. I put new tires on the rear and was able get extremely close to stock specs on the rear! Now to watch the wear! :driving:

A few degrees will make a lot of difference. Can you tell me what you were able to get to?

kevr6 04-05-2010 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bster (Post 481473)
Coool... did you get them from a vendor on this forum?

No, It was a shop on Ebay. Best price at the time!

Quote:

Originally Posted by docaam (Post 481473)
kevr6...very nice stance or your car

can you pm me where to get these rear spats from? and offset of your wheels

I know you said PM you but I got the rear kit from VIP Status along with the wheels. I can't make up my mind on the rest of the kit I'm going to use.
My wheel offsets are +10 rear & +15 front.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmlenz (Post 481473)
Nice stance Kev...looks pretty similar to the Megan stance. Are you getting any noise/chatter from the rear spring due to the lack of lower rubber seat? Thats what I would be most concerned with.

Zero noise!! Very solid feel!! No more of that stiff twist you feel with the Megans. Day three and the ride is getting better. Remember the difference is in mm if left in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedworks (Post 481473)
A few degrees will make a lot of difference. Can you tell me what you were able to get to?

True!! Here are the final specs. Notice the front camber slightly off. The left rear was tough also. One adjustment dominoes all the other adjustments. Like chasing your tail. I'm not sure if it's due to using Ichiba links instead of the SPL. All is close enough for me though.
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/8...ent0432010.jpg

speedworks 04-05-2010 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6 (Post 482560)
True!! Here are the final specs. Notice the front camber slightly off. The left rear was tough also. One adjustment dominoes all the other adjustments. Like chasing your tail. I'm not sure if it's due to using Ichiba links instead of the SPL. All is close enough for me though.
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/8...ent0432010.jpg

Interesting. At least they got the total toe within spec (little effect on steering and some crazy wear). Now, the front camber looks unchanged - this car doesn't have fixed bolts does it? Can it be changed? I am surprised there was no change at all.

kevr6 04-05-2010 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedworks (Post 482753)
Interesting. At least they got the total toe within spec (little effect on steering and some crazy wear). Now, the front camber looks unchanged - this car doesn't have fixed bolts does it? Can it be changed? I am surprised there was no change at all.

You'd need the adjustable control arms to get it right on the OE spec.
Kinetix Racing 370Z Front Upper Camber A-Arms - performance parts

Mike 04-05-2010 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6 (Post 482767)
You'd need the adjustable control arms to get it right on the OE spec.
Kinetix Racing 370Z Front Upper Camber A-Arms - performance parts

you don't want their stuff. GTE in Atlanta is a very reputable alignment shop where most of the racers go and they told me to run, not walk from their products. Eibach has some, but as noted elsewhere, they are made by SPC, which to me means, they must be ok for eibach to rebadge them. I prefer SPL parts though, myself.

kevr6 04-05-2010 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike (Post 482927)
you don't want their stuff. GTE in Atlanta is a very reputable alignment shop where most of the racers go and they told me to run, not walk from their products. Eibach has some, but as noted elsewhere, they are made by SPC, which to me means, they must be ok for eibach to rebadge them. I prefer SPL parts though, myself.

Thanks for the info!! I'm still learning about these cars and available quality products!

Mike 04-05-2010 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevr6 (Post 482939)
Thanks for the info!! I'm still learning about these cars and available quality products!

wish I'd realized your were ATL,, would have like to gone for a ride with the Megans just to see how they are.

jmlenz 04-06-2010 05:20 PM

Kev > not to stray too off topic but when you installed the Megans did you set any preload on the rear (not sure if this can be set on front too?). When you reached under the car and grabbed the rear spring could you rattle it or was it solid? How about with the rear jacked up? I can rattle the crap out of mine which leads me to believe the installer set zero preload = noisy rear springs.

azn370z 04-06-2010 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmlenz (Post 483963)
Kev > not to stray too off topic but when you installed the Megans did you set any preload on the rear (not sure if this can be set on front too?). When you reached under the car and grabbed the rear spring could you rattle it or was it solid? How about with the rear jacked up? I can rattle the crap out of mine which leads me to believe the installer set zero preload = noisy rear springs.

you need to preload the rears so the springs don't move when the tires are off the ground. You can't and don't need to preload the front.

jmlenz 04-06-2010 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azn370z (Post 484001)
you need to preload the rears so the springs don't move when the tires are off the ground. You can't and don't need to preload the front.

You cant and dont need to preload the fronts because the Megan coilovers dont offer this adjustment/feature or is that with any coilovers for the 370?

azn370z 04-06-2010 06:36 PM

You're not supposed to adjust the springs on the fronts. You use the shock to adjust height.

You have to use the rear springs to adjust height. Then you shorten the length of the shocks to add preload.

jmlenz 04-06-2010 06:47 PM

Azn370 > got it thanks. So you have the proper amount of preload set and your still getting clunks from the rear huh? Thats a bummer. Im hoping my noises go away after adding preload.

azn370z 04-06-2010 06:55 PM

If you're familiar with the 350z you know even the oem suspension can make a clunking noise. Mine didn't. There is a fix on the 350z forum. There are a couple 370z owners with clunking oem suspensions. But yes aftermarket and oem can make noises.

kevr6 04-06-2010 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmlenz (Post 483963)
Kev > not to stray too off topic but when you installed the Megans did you set any preload on the rear (not sure if this can be set on front too?). When you reached under the car and grabbed the rear spring could you rattle it or was it solid? How about with the rear jacked up? I can rattle the crap out of mine which leads me to believe the installer set zero preload = noisy rear springs.

I did the install using a lift and once on the ground there was no movement!
Most Coilovers have the helper springs but the Megans did not so front and rear were loose during install.
On the H&R springs the first three coils act as helper springs so even though out of the box they are the same height as the stock
springs, you'll still get that dropped ride height!

Zeester 04-09-2010 12:48 PM

Car looks awesome with those springs man ! But what I really want to know is how they perform...

How would you compare these to the Tanabe GF210s ? Although i know you probably never had experience with them...maybe you might know someone who does ?

kevr6 04-09-2010 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeester (Post 488411)
Car looks awesome with those springs man ! But what I really want to know is how they perform...

How would you compare these to the Tanabe GF210s ? Although i know you probably never had experience with them...maybe you might know someone who does ?

I really do not have first hand experience w/ the Tanabe product. I do know that the ride height is similar & I've heard that they are pretty stiff.

Zeester 04-09-2010 08:03 PM

You think they're stiffer than these H&Rs ?

Im in the market for a stiff spring that lowers the car about an inch or so and yet has more performance due to it being stiffer.

kevr6 04-09-2010 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeester (Post 489330)
You think they're stiffer than these H&Rs ?

Im in the market for a stiff spring that lowers the car about an inch or so and yet has more performance due to it being stiffer.

Stiffer doesn't necessarily mean more performance! ;) (That's not what she said!)

azn370z 04-11-2010 01:07 AM

Ok today I installed my hr springs myself. I started at 11 and finished around 10pm because I had a shop switch out the springs for me but the spring wasn't aligned good enough with the lower part that the bolt goes through. So after I loosened all the bolts and nuts and took out the passenger strut I had to quickly put everything back together and go back to the shop before they closed. But the front and rear only took me a total of 4 hrs, not including the downtime.

It's quite like oem, which it is, minus the springs. The ride is nice, I can't really tell the difference between the hr and from my bc. I had the bc set really stiff and on the bumpiest parts of the highway the car would shake like crazy. But 90% of the time the ride was fairly smooth. I didn't take any corners too fast, can't tell just yet if they handle as well as the bc.

The front amazingly was the same height that I had the bc at, don't know if the springs will settle, probably not. The rear were a bit higher than my bc, maybe 1/4 higher. I actually like the rear to be higher than the front, but if I could choose I would have the rears a bit lower. I don't think the springs will settle, I took a look and the dead springs were completely compressed. Overall I like the hr springs.

ZForce 04-11-2010 03:55 AM

I really liked the H&R on the Z33 and I like them just as well on the Z34, to the point where I really came close to selling my boxed up Eibachs for some H&R's. But this time around I am keeping the total cost down low, so Eibachs will be the way to go for me. Therefore I will not have to spend extra $$ on the upper control arms to get the fronts back into oem spec. Savings of about $500.

As far as the rear on the H&R giving the car too much of a rake, like myself. Maybe look into cutting about 0.5" off the rear rubber spring mounts. That's what I did for the Z33, from the previously posted pics a few pages back. Looked clean...imho...but it's all a personal preference.

It's a tough call....if you want the lowered look then plan on shelling out additional $$ for upper control arms. If you want to the minimum cost for lowered look, then go with Eibachs and you should not need the upper control arms. Either springs will require rear camber kits. For the fronts I still prefer SPC, they are well manufactured and great for DD. SPL are stiffer, a bit more $$ and ideal for track. Stay away from Kinetix.

Overall the H&R look sweet and aggressive and if I had the extra $$ I would go this route. Nice job guys!

azn370z 04-11-2010 04:08 AM

I was actually looking at the 350z forums and reading about cutting the spring mount. It definitely looks better with that mod. maybe in a year or so when I get the energy.

kevr6 04-11-2010 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azn370z (Post 491243)
Ok today I installed my hr springs myself. I started at 11 and finished around 10pm because I had a shop switch out the springs for me but the spring wasn't aligned good enough with the lower part that the bolt goes through. So after I loosened all the bolts and nuts and took out the passenger strut I had to quickly put everything back together and go back to the shop before they closed. But the front and rear only took me a total of 4 hrs, not including the downtime.

It's quite like oem, which it is, minus the springs. The ride is nice, I can't really tell the difference between the hr and from my bc. I had the bc set really stiff and on the bumpiest parts of the highway the car would shake like crazy. But 90% of the time the ride was fairly smooth. I didn't take any corners too fast, can't tell just yet if they handle as well as the bc.

The front amazingly was the same height that I had the bc at, don't know if the springs will settle, probably not. The rear were a bit higher than my bc, maybe 1/4 higher. I actually like the rear to be higher than the front, but if I could choose I would have the rears a bit lower. I don't think the springs will settle, I took a look and the dead springs were completely compressed. Overall I like the hr springs.

Glad it worked out for you!! Sorry you had issues during install! Took me 3 to 4 hours for the install also!! Had just enough time to fit an alignment in before Saturday close! (I didn't do the alignment)

Zeester 04-11-2010 08:27 PM

Anyone have the Tanabe GF210s on their Z ? Im stuck between these H&Rs, Tanabe GF210s, or just blowing some cash and getting the GT Motorsports Comp coilovers.

Ahh, decision, decisions, decisions....

azn370z 04-11-2010 08:33 PM

If you get coilovers get the ones with helper springs. I don't think the gf drops it low enough if you like it lower. The hr drops the front so there is 1 finger gap.

jmlenz 04-11-2010 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azn370z (Post 492476)
If you get coilovers get the ones with helper springs. I don't think the gf drops it low enough if you like it lower. The hr drops the front so there is 1 finger gap.

Just curious, why do you recommend the helper springs?

azn370z 04-11-2010 10:42 PM

I think it will be easier to preload the suspensions.

Zeester 04-12-2010 02:38 AM

Hey azn370z,

Have you checked out the GT Comp coilovers ? Im looking into getting these and they seem like a pretty reputable company.

No helper springs on their kits though, I think if it were a concern, these companies would have helper springs on all coilovers they were producing for the 370z.

azn370z 04-12-2010 01:23 PM

I haven't really looked at those coilovers. The bc didn't have helper springs either but If it did it would make setting the ride height easier. I had to put car on Jack stands, take off wheels, adjust coilovers, repeat, repeat, etc. With helper springs I think I could get everything right in 2 tries. And I think there would be no chance the spring would rattle, which my bc didn't.

If I were to buy coilovers again I would buy from a bigger company like kw. Bc isn't a bad company, their product is not bad and they do have decent customer service. But I definitely would like helper springs.

Zeester 04-13-2010 10:52 PM

I pulled the trigger today and ordered me a set of the H&R sport springs ! Cant wait to get these installed.

How would these springs match up with the Nismo Z dampers ? Theres a guy whos local selling his nismo suspension and ive been contemplating picking these up and slapping on the H&R springs.

Any ideas on if these would be well matched ?

azn370z 04-13-2010 11:58 PM

I really like the hr springs, I'm already thinking of putting hr springs on my next z. From what I have read the nismo suspensions ride a bit harsh, not sure how harsh though. I really like the oem shocks and hr spring combo, lowered look but comfortable ride.

Bster 04-14-2010 04:30 AM

Will probably be needing the matching Koni shocks (not in production yet?) for the lowered springs though....

ZForce 04-14-2010 11:13 AM

I had Koni yellows paired up with H&R on the Z33 and lubbed dem. The new generation had adjustments for the rear with only having to jack up the rear and adjust with an allen wrench. This was a favorite combination running on the track. DD driving I would leave them on the softest setting in the front and 1.5 turns on the rear.

I have not seen a version yet for the Z34, but I am sure Koni is working on a set. Another plus with Koni, is that you can buy them individually. Most other mfg's make you buy them in pairs. Something to keep in mind.


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