Carbotech XP10 front XP8 back - my choice BUT
 

everything has a BUT.... (Beyond the underlying truth)
Either
Carbotech XP10 front XP8 back
or XP8 front and back...

But the real question should I go with them, since the car is driven on the street, to and from the track
or
should I simply just get street/track pad set

I want to replace the pads before the next track event in a month...

Thanks for being patience with me on this, at times I get all thumbs....
:tiphat:

I ran the same pads street and track. The squeal when cold on the street and they dust like mad. I didn't street the car much before the engine blew.

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I use that combo all the time. :tup: Just be prepared for the dust, and the squeal coming to a stop. Neither of which bothers me. When cold, the pads still have LOTS of bite.

Ceramic coat your wheels and the dust should come right off

Love them on the track but I don’t think I’d tolerate them on the street to be honest. Aside from noise and dust they’re a bit much grab in stop and go traffic. I do the 1521 on street and swap to xp10/8 a week or two before events. It’s a bit a hassle but worth it in the end.

I've done 10/8 on the street for a couple years now, though it's more like 25% street.

If you are only occasionally tracking, consider swapping to 12/10 at the track and a nice streetfriendly compound most the time. If you have space to work and basic tools, the akebono's are quick to do a pad swap.

I ran the Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 back for years before switching to different brake pads. There is a reason the Carbotech brake pads cost more they bit really well and you will be able to see the full benefits of the Carbotech’s on the track. You will see a braking improvement with the Carbotech’s but you will need to run upgraded rotors though. Only con’s is you will notice is more dusting coming from them and evident on your wheels. Also when they are cold a specially on cold days they will make noise moaning etc. When they warm up they quiet down. One thing to realize is when running a track oriented brake pad like the Carbotech’s or similar rotor life will decrease some. I recommend switching from street brake pads when you want to drive your Z on the street and on your track days switching over to your track pads you will thank yourself later. The 1521 Carbotech’s will be a nice improvement on the street. What brake fluid do you plan on using? What is your brake set up plans for street/track?

Motol 660 brake fluid
Stillen Brake Cooling installed already
I did the Z1 370z(Sport) Brake Upgrade Kit a couple of years ago...

I street the car maybe third of the time. So sounds like I should be good.
Thanks all for the help

Should ask this up front, which suppliers do you use?
Since I have to get them by May 12th

I use myself, and am about to order a set from them directly. PM me and I can get you in on that order.

I would refrain ordering anything from Z1 in my opinion there are a lot of vendors you can order from how deserve your business. I ordered all my brake pads and brake related items direct from Carbotech and I'm happy I did. www.ctbrakes.com

thanks for the tip, found out they have a 10% discount for SCCA a members

I've been using the Stoptech sport pads for several years and over 20 events. I typically change fronts after every other event & rears every 3-4th event (all depending on track and duration). I know there are better track pads; but I've never had an issue with any kind of fade or stopping force. Hopefully I will eventually when I become a much faster driver. Best thing is that I can use these for street as well without squeal or significant brake dust.

I suggest you give them a try and only go to a harder pad when you find that you need it.

LMAO, if you are changing pads that often you need change to something else. Those pads are fine for street and maybe a novice at the track but not for anyone in this thread.:tiphat:

:iagree:

Replacing brakes pads every other event is a sign that you need to move to a harder brake pad compound for your track use.

How difficult was the Stillen brake cooling install? I'm looking to install this or the Z1 kit before my next track day.

I did my 1st track day in the Z last weekend with XP10s/XP8s on aftermarket drilled/slotted rotors w/ Motul RBF600 fluid and got major brake fade at the end of the sessions. Thinking I absolutely need to add cooling and install SS lines to replace the 7-year-old factory rubber.

And, I just bought street pads so I'll only run the Carbotechs on the track. At $300/set, plus the dust and squealing, I only want them on the track. I went with Centri Posi-Quiet for the street pads, they cheaper on Amazon than from Z1, FYI.

The Stillen brake cooling kit isn't that hard to install. You have to remove the bearing units and install the new shield behind it. To do that, you have to remove the ABS sensors. Then figure out how you route the hose.

Definitely get the SS brake lines, and get the Z1 brake master cylinder brace.

I'm gonna butt in here: which track are/were you running?

I agree with what's been said here. I think you'll get the best improvement from the stainless lines. I would bump up the brake fluid to 660 as well. I cannot speak to the 10/8 combo as I've never run it, but the 12/10 combo gives you unbelievable stopping power and will give you some more pad life.

I don't have cooling and I haven't had any fade issues with the brakes, but usually, I cook my tires before I get to brake fade. So I will defer to others on whether you absolutely have to install the cooling kit at this point.

I switched from the Stillen 2" hose to a 3" hose. What a PITA that was. But it works.

Oh I definitely don't doubt it. I think I tried routing a custom kit for a bit and that helped, but I ended up removing it since the tracks where I went to at the time (H2R and MSRH) Arent heavy on the brakes, and then some corners don't require brakes with the aero.

I did have an idea for making some GT3-R style ducting for my useless side vents, but I already have too many projects.

MSR Houston last weekend. I see you've been there!

On the end of the 2nd session, the pedal went to mush and I couldn't slow down enough to make it into turn 16 coming out of Gut Check so I went into pit lane. At first I thought it was driver error, but when I got into the paddock, the pedal was going to the floor. Bled the brakes in the paddock and everything was fine the rest of the weekend.

For additional content, this was really strange since I had just bled the brakes the weekend before, put 5 bottles of fluid through it so I was damn sure (so I thought) the OEM fluid was out. When I re-bled them on the track, I bled through less than 1 bottle and like I said, no issues with the brakes the rest of the weekend but they did seem to get softer as the day got hotter and 20-25 mins into the session.

Have you ever had an instructor in your car that commented or noticed your braking habits?

I'd check your rubber brakes lines for a bubble just in case.

Yes, I've always had an instructor in the car. My braking technique is fine (not dragging my foot on it or stabbing the brakes), threshold braking in a straight line was not the problem here.

I'll take the wheels off this weekend and check for bubbles. Never seen a pic like that before. What causes that to happen?

Extreme heat and time. It's not common but SS brake lines should be a pretty high priority for any 370Z that sees regular track time.

I wasn't trying to insinuate otherwise on the braking btw. Obviously you're serious about :driving:
Hope to run into you sometime soon.

No, of course. I didn't assume anything by the comment. I bet the SS lines take care of it. I think I'll install the Z1 Premium lines with fresh Motul fluid and see how they do in September at Eagle's Canyon. If I still run into issues I'll know it's a cooling issue or possibly something undiagnosed so far with my braking technique.

Get the non-premium lines. They get rid of the stupid blocks, which are just another potential leak point.

Thanks for the tip!

If you get coilovers. Some of them have no place to mount the connection block.

How would StopTech Street compare to The 1521 Carbotech’s? (strictly for street use)

I got this on the interweb. Good reference? :

Friction:
StopTech > Carbotech 1521 > Hawk HPS

Dust:
StopTech > Hawk HPS > Carbotech 1521

Abrasiveness on rotors:
StopTech > Hawk HPS > Carbotech 1521

I run stoptech streets on both my cars. They're fine. With the Z's Akebono Kit, it's plenty of stopping power for the street. If you need more, you need to give yourself more space when driving.

6 years- 2 nismo 370 z’s over that time, both set up as streetable track cars, ran XP10 front XP8 rear full time. Fine on the street but like Rusty said a lot of dust and squealing but it’s a track car, who cares. On the first nismo we couldn’t really hear the squealing over the FI LTHs with non res cbe. :icon17:

Oh, and motul rbf 660. Wifey cooked rbf 600 at Sebring in the summer one time and 8/8 combo failed there too, but 10/8 held up, this was with no brake ducting.

Oh, on aggressive street tires, PS2s iirc.

Do these thread into the calipers or are they still Banjo bolts?

and fit the Akeebono sport calipers?

Still use the banjo bolts and will fit the 'bono's.

At the track I run 275 front and 305 rear Toyo R888, I have Stillen brake ducts and always run RBF600 fluid with XP10 Front XP8 rear. Never experienced brake fade at the track but my dust boots always burn up. Love the Carbotechs for the stopping power and durability: Hate the Carbotechs for dusting and squealing in daily driving. Rebuilt the calipers (again) This time around added front 2 piece slotted rotors maybe that could hep in the cooling dept. I have also ditched the carbos for Stoptech Sports, don't do enough track to justify living and a daily basis with the squeal and dust

just a little update, I am pleased with the Carbotechs, dusty yes, noise, a bit not bad... stopping very pleased. But what I have learned, is that braking technique, is really key to my future of going a bit faster :driving:, so trying to understand and practice braking pressure..