As far as why other people never have issues? I have no idea. Maybe they are not in tune with what their car does. Some folks just can't tell they have an issue. If you are all the way down in Miami, that is a long *** trip of 9hrs. If you are in Jacksonville, it is 3hrs to me.

That would be a yes on lowering springs. You can slide by but it won't be close to spec and tire wear can get ugly quick depending on the toe settings. I am very funny about my alignment settings, I can't stand a darty car.

I honestly am very glad you understand what I mean and are saying this because I really can't understand how anyone would think this ride quality is acceptable, let alone expected to be performant.

I just watched a video on the spc toe bolt elongation and it doesn't look too bad, but I still rather avoid cutting the subframe if I can. Is there really no other way to get my alignment in spec without using the spring bucket arm to adjust the toe? I know they make adjustable traction arms but what exactly does that adjust and why can't I use those instead?

I do still have the true rear bc kit that I swapped out for the oem style, and if I put that back on, I would just need to replace spring buckets with adjustable toe arms, but **** man, there's gotta be an easier way to do this. Z's are known for there great handling and here I am literally hating the way it handles :crying:

It takes time and patience to get a car with coilovers setup properly. It's not cheap either.

You don't want to mess with adjusting the traction arms unless you want to change the rear geometry angles. If you don't know what you are doing, you just opened up a can of worms. Alignment shops have no clue about them. People replace the traction arms because they want to get rid of the rubber bushings.

yea I had a feeling that was the case, thanks for confirming.

I feel lost at this point. I either dump close to another grand on control arms, proper spc toe bolt installation, and alignment, hoping the end result is what I've been spending months trying to figure out, or going back to stock ride height and struts.

I'm still super surprised that every single lowered z has this issue and either doesn't know about it or spends thousands on tuning it properly. There's gotta be a way around it. I'm about to go raise it until the camber is at least in range but with my luck I'll be back at stock ride height :(

Comparing my factory Nismo suspension to the one I have now is night and day difference. I wish I would have spent more money on the dampers to make it even better. Overall, I am very happy with it.

Here is my old thread.

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...uspension.html

See, hearing that your setup is actually better than the nismo suspension gives me hope. I need that in my life.

I also see that you're an SPL whore so it makes a lot of sense why your ride is fantastic lol

That being said, to balance cost and effort in fixing my issues, I'm now leaning on going back to the true rear kit, SPL fucas, SPL camber arms, and SPL toe arms since the SPL mid links cost more than the entire coilover kit itself. The Z1 street edition cambers arms I have right now are literally pure garbage and I'm surprised they're even selling those creaky attic sounding pieces of ****. Can't wait to take them off.

Now to figure out where to get all this stuff at a good price lol.

Thanks for pointing me to your build thread, I'm looking forward to reading the whole thing.

If have 2 weeks straight to read you can look into my other one.

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ports-228.html

What rear springs do you have on your truetype coilovers. They need to be much less. 5-6k springs.

Thread on True-Type coilovers.

http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...coilovers.html

reading this thread is making my head hurt

There's no way -2 camber the cause of "horrible ride quality." I have Aragosta coils with 14/10 rates (middle settings all around), full SPL arms, factory bushings, and 20 inch wheels, my ride quality is absolutely fine.

I've had other people, non Z people drive and ride in the car, zero complaints. Its firmer than stock but bumps and road imperfections are well managed. This is with street specs running much lower than a track car would, as its geared towards appearance . . . and its still fine

Refer to the factory specs here and the rear camber isn't even off by that much:
http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...ent-specs.html

There is no way to adjust front anything without adjustable arms. There is minimal adjustment in the rear. For optimal alignment, you need all three rear arms and a competent alignment tech

I don't know how much reading you did, clearly not enough. I personally have posted endlessly that that anyone with coilovers MUST get adjustable arms, with the SPL ones most recommended because they never break, they're easy to adjust ON CAR, and they have manufacturer support.

What i do not see addressed in this thread are your tires. What tires are you running, what size, and what is the condition?

this is an absolute must read as it explains why true type rears require roughly half the spring rate as non-true/divorced type

I dunno how many times i gotta tell people not to get Z1 and to get the ******* SPLs

do it right the first time or don't do it