if you are going to full adjustable arms, then YES, you need the lock out kit

the stock eccentric bolts are a point of failure - they slip over time and wear. As you are adjusting camber/toe/caster through the arms, you no longer need that adjustment point, hence the "lock out" of those bolts

I am curious how SPL is changing the springs. Fitment wise, it's easy - throw away the progressive springs, swap in some 65mm ID swifts. But are those now linear? won't that throw off the valving? I mean, SPL knows more than me, i trust their setup. Just wondering what they're doing here

They sell KW so presumably they will know how to make stuff work with their own parts

EOD it won't be anything you can notice, i suppose

EDIT:
Don't stop the lockout kit and mid-link
Get the traction arm too

Your alignment tech will thank you. All 3 arms work in conjunction and affect alignment.

Whatever spring you get, buy some Swift thrust washer/thrust sheets:
http://swiftsprings.wpengine.com/products/misc/

Save yourself from squeaking and popping noises

SPL can order these for you

it will take about 40 days for my kw v3s to arrive. So in that time I will order traction arms, new springs (will talk to spl again and confirm if linear springs will fck with the coil system) and i order this washers. Thanks alot guys.

I realize that this is an older thread ! But for anyone looking for/shopping Z1 now offers FUCA's that are not only fully-forged pieces that CAN BE ADJUSTED ON THE CAR !! , they are also half the price of SPL's offering. Save yourself some $$ and get a forged fuca at half the cost (they don't come with the little titanium bits) which if you ask me aren't worth 500 extra bucks lol

Link below-

https://www.z1motorsports.com/all-bl...1eb5bc40030ee5

Why buy fake SPL when you can have the real deal.

because they are overpriced
not everyone is so happy to throw their money away as you spooler

:iagree:

Almost all products are mirrored or produced off of something that already exist. Why spend 1,000+ $$ on something you or no one else will ever see, especially since there is now a comparable option for sale at a much more competitive price. If I can have a product that offers the same features, warranty and design appeal for half of what everyone else has paid for an similar part, why wouldn't I. I'm just trying to save others diving into their suspension some $$. If you want to hold fast on that $$ that was spent on the SPL part and make yourself believe it was worth it that's fine too. :tiphat:

SPL is proven, time and time again! There is no disputing this and no arguing this. Until any other manufacturer proves to be as effective and durable as SPL, I and others on this site will continue to point towards them as the standard. It's not wasting money, it's investing wisely.

Stop throwing good air away by breathing. LOL

Hi Smokey, your car, your choice. I have no issue with you promoting the Z1 arms. However, relating to suspension matters, the above sentence is very wrong.

TLDR: people buy SPL for the highest assurance of A) arm not snapping in high loads and B) alignment remains during high loads. There’s no guarantee, but some rather pays extra for a higher assurance. It’s like buying a car with best safety rating.

Long version: quantitatively / objectively speaking, there’s no evidence that GK Tech or Z1 FUCA are inferior. After all, the designs are the same. Spherical bearings likely wouldn’t cause any catastrophe.

So what else? That would be the welds and the metallurgy. Those are the spots where if fail, aka if arm snaps, car instantly becomes completely uncontrollable since we can’t control the wheel’s direction any more (two cases in this forum, one on track, one during a mountain drive). Does anybody have any real evidence Z1 or GK Tech employ inferior source of metal, or inferior manufacturing process? No.

But, this is where the SPL history comes in. In the lack of quantitative evidence, we look to the history of quality production and motorsports. SPL specialises in suspension parts, and their parts have longer proven history than others, and this is unquestionable.

For that higher assurance, some of us chose to pay the higher price. Few hundred bucks more is well worth it if you know how bad things get when a suspension arm breaks.

I appreciate your well thought out response and understand the acceptance of SPL and their parts on this forum and in the Z community as a whole ! Again I was very simply posting to inform others of another option that many may not know has become available. Even if one decides on the SPL parts(which is fine) I believe Z1's offerings deserve a look, that is all. I am not even a big Z1 fan as I have and am running parts from other manufactures on my car !!

If I have an issue with these FUCA's whether through operation or some type of failure, I will be sure to update this forum with those results.

It's simple. Because those companies are the ones that innovate and create new products unlike Z1 who copies companies' stuff. When it is time to innovate again, I highly doubt it is Z1 who does. They will just copy somebody else again.

People value different things.

and people have had different experiences with Z1, who often does not even make their own stuff.

I buy from them. I just don't buy their copies. I refuse.

Z1 will not post any negative views of their products that they carry. I've tried posting a couple of reviews on their website with no luck.:shakes head:

Yep. I would go outta my way to buy from ConceptZ, Corner3 and ZSpeed. I rather pay more to get ZSpeed engine tray than the Z1 copy. The Z1 coilovers was the last draw for me. It’s like walking thru SEMA (and to some extent the PRI), anybody can order as little as a few sets of BBK from the same manufacturer, then just slap their own name and color on, and voila a new BBK setup that has no motorsport affiliation and history.

Was it the first gen diff brace? I think I remember that one.

Yeah.....it was the Bell diff brace. There were a few more after that.

They also don't seem to make it readily available where they're sourcing their stuff from, even when there's an official partnership (i.e. with Brembo or Akebono or something)

I really enjoyed reading the thread. However, I have a question please ...

If my stock car came with divorced style suspension, can I change it to true style? If yes, then what extra I need to order to replace the mid link?

If not then, I need to stick to divorced style then. In this case.

In both cases, since my budget is limited, which adjustable coilover you guys recommend, because BC racing ones are expensive comparing to others like KW and Tien.

Kindly advise

Thanks ..
NAS

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There are a lot of options out there, what are your intentions with your car? Street/Track/Mixed? What is your budget? Are you looking to just lower the car? Are you looking to improve performance? The answer to these questions will provide further clarification and impact the recommendations you may receive.

Just get these and be done!

https://mcasuspension.com/mca-reds/

I will try to answer the questions and give you an idea.

Track and weekend.
Lower to improve the handling for sure.
And make it more stiff (adjustable).
Budget for coilovers (alone) upto 1100usd.

Other items, I might get spl for more adjustments. Which will be later. Currently I want to get the coilovers.

My question is, shall I keep it divorced style or true style?

Thanks,
NAS

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Neither divorced nor "true" style will make any difference for your purposes

Pick a good brand of coilover that can be serviced near where you live; that's probably a bigger consideration

SPL everything

then find a good alignment shop and you're on your way

if you're serious about tracking, then go do it. Seat time is better than any mod (other than the safety/cooling ones)

As others have said.. doesn’t matter if you go divorced or true. True might be easier to adjust ride height, but both can give you identical performance.

How much do you want to lower the car by? If you’re serious about “performance” I wouldn’t recommend a large drop, or else you’ll throw off the camber curves and have a greater chance of rubbing tire. You’ll also need more parts to get back in alignment spec.

If you’re budget limited, stick to a 1” MAX drop. You can use eccentric bolts for toe and camber and get everything in spec. This is significantly cheaper than buying SPL toe and camber arms, eccentric lockout plates, etc…

If you’ve got the money to drop, go with SPL. High quality stuff, easy to adjust, won’t ever break, but it’s not necessary.

My experience: BC divorced coilovers, PLM eccentric bolts for camber and toe. Done 3 track days and 10+ Autox events without any slip in the PLM eccentric bolts.


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Thank you ..
Can you share the link of eccentric bolts for toe and camber ..
I think this will be good for me as of now, then once I get more budget, I will go SPL everything. As explained by you guys earlier.

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SPL Parts for everything
arms and eccentric bolts

get all the parts first, do ONE install and ONE alignment to save yourself time/labor

IF YOU ARE SERIOUS ABOUT TRACKING

invest time and money into test fitting a helmet (required) and seat (more work, but if you're gonna do it, do it safely)

This is what I’ve got. I grabbed them on sale about 2 years ago, and looks like they’re still on sale. You do need to enlarge the bolt slots with a dremel though, so there is work involved.

Make sure you go to a reputable alignment shop that will align it properly. Make sure they torque it down to at least the OEM spec or else you COULD have slip.

https://privatelabelmfg.com/products...yABEgJyoPD_BwE


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Apologies for hijacking the thread, but what makes these/this brand special?

nothing

They offer a wide range of products from ho-hum street stuff to race car stuff. They are based in Australia so anyone in that region will naturally favor them. A few American places use them too, so they have some reach outside of the area.

Otherwise, they're just one other option

If you want to know why that particular poster recommended them without giving any explanation, look at his location.

This is a more esoteric difference - if you intend to ever get air cups, it might be easier with true type.