For you, no.

The difference between something in the sub $2000 range (Fortune, BC, Powertrix, etc) and something higher (AST, Aragosta, Ohlins, etc) is largely irrelevant for a total novice

Nothing is gonna change your track experience more than . . . track experience at this stage.

When you can maximize your car in its current state, then you can move to a higher level of suspension (or power)

For now, you should be focused on safety equipment and some basic wear items like pads and tires that get chewed up on the track over time

The japanese brands you are referencing are just that - exotic japanese brands. They aren't going to have any USA support. If something breaks, expect a long and difficult road to replacement.

Thats why i am recommending Fortune - they can rebuild it for you stateside. Ditto for Powertrix. I think BC does too. All these places can also do swift springs as an upgrade in whatever rate you want.

Before you throw money at big name parts you need to consider where you currently are experience-wise.

I will repeat:
The most important thing for you is seat time.
I'd also add that you should get seat time at a couple different tracks too


EDIT:

This used set of KW's looks pretty good too

http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...tom-setup.html

Thank you so much! It is really helpful, I will do more practice in summer time!

Not sure what this means exactly 2 weekends once, 2 events once, or 14 days?

You haven't said what if any mods you have? Do you even have a helmet or do you rent one?

Take some time, maybe even like 10 minutes and write a reply more then a few words so the people here can properly help you and potentially save you from a 3 thousand dollar mistake.

A good (experienced) driver in a stock 370Z will run laps around a new track driver with a $10,000.00 custom designed and tested coil over system.

Today I remembered your words, as I went to the track with stock shocks/springs, and did my personal best laptime. What I got now is more experience behind the wheel and better alignment setting.

Back again... Optionzero pretty much stated it correctly as is with his first reply. Tires being the most important piece out of all. Track abuse will destroy normal road tires not meant for extended heat cycling. Same goes for normal road bushings that weren't designed for extended lateral g-force. Once your bushings die out, you will be chasing alignment problems and steering feedback troubles. So tires and bushings are numero uno. Safety is key, being fast is a goal. Don't have anything to add in terms of companies to choose from. But JIC magic has gone through an evolution in the past years and are offering bespoke kits. Their customer base isn't too deep, so you have an opportunity to get some good one on one info from the team. They can definitely meet your price point for a custom kit with good spring rate options.

You should talk to tuning experts that can give you the best spring rate option for the height you are trying to achieve. Companies like performance shock inc or vorshlag can help you with this far better than suspension companies who mass market kits for several cars. Most suspension companies won't even be able to properly tell you the spring rates for half the kits they make without reading a chart.

More important than just buying a suspension kit though is making sure the car is properly corner balanced before you even hit the road. You'll need to find you nearest suspension tuning shop to figure out if they can do this for you, or find a way of getting the car to a shop that can perform this service properly. None of the kits mentioned previously sets the spring alignment up perfectly for your car right out of the box. So you'd want to set aside about 250-500 dollars to chassis alignment after the suspension install. People end up chasing geometry related problems for years because of this oversight, don't fall into this camp.

Also note, after the installs, an alignment should be done before and after corner balance for the best results. Once to set the suspension linkages to a neutral position then again to insure the values are set as you want it for intended use. This isn't absolutely needed, but at the very least do the corner balance > alignment if the tuner doesn't have the proper tools to handle this all in a single instance.

Whoa Mays is back!