Wheel hop
 

Why does my car wheel hop like a BITCH!?

Even the slightest bit of wheel spin and it's hoppin like women on trampolines. There's no way anything is worn out...there's only 14.5K on the clock and it's done it ever since I got it at 450 miles...

It's got Swifts and SPL Platinum camber bars.

I remember hearing something about subframe bushings fixing this?...if I remember correctly?...

If you don't want to pull the entire subframe out (it is a pain in the *** job)

https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...r-p-12015.html

The Z1 inserts have been getting good reviews.

Very interesting. Might have to give them a shot!

Thanks, man!

[QUOTE=hoppin like women on trampolines.



I've seen those videos! Nice!!!! :tiphat:

I thought that differential bushings control wheel hop, if you like to do pulls you might have broken yours regardless of mileage on the car.

Check the rear diff bushing and see if you have the tears of shame flowing down. If so, you will need to replace it.

It's usually the mushy rear bushings in the differential and frame.

The best solution is solid bushings everywhere but the noise and vibration is intolerable for a street car. See the video on Z1 website to watch the axle movement in action.

I've used Urethane bushings on motor mounts, transmission mount, rear diff and Z1 frame mount inserts. Its a more solid but vibration and noise are up. I still get axle hop at the drag strip with drag radials but remember this car is set up to handling not rear weight transfer for drag races. Want a drag car?.... get a mustang

I have the complete SPL catalog under my Z. It's no more noisy as before. It sounds the same.

The most movement in the rear is the diff bushings and the rear sub-frame bushings. Followed by the bushings in the other suspension pieces.

If you have done a number of holeshots. Check your diff cover for black stains running down it. If you see it. Your diff bushing is shot.

I have to agree, with all the changes I have done the loudest things, besides the exhaust, are the differential itself and the flywheel.

You wouldn’t happen to be on OEM tires would you? Mine hopped a ton on the oem tires before I changed to conti sports.

What is the exact tire you found that works? I have already done the differential bushings, and upgraded sway bar, going to do the subframe collars as it still hops like a bitch. Tires will be next if that doesnt work.

Yup, I'm on stock tires for now. They hop like CRAZY!! I'm not out for a drag car, but...I mean...a decent launch, bit of a burnout or even a slight bit of oversteer ALL give me CRAZY wheel hop...

I don't think it should be like this.

Not sure what to do. The inserts I think are a start. After that...bushings and traction bars, maybe? I'm going all Whiteline/SPL wherever possible.

For the best sticky, quiet, low tread wear tires, I'd recommend the Michelin Super Sports. The Bridgestone Potenza OEM tires were terrible - noisy, slippery, high treadwear (less than 10k miles and they were gone). I changed to Hankooks which were better, but then went to the Michelins and they are incredible - For Street Use with some sporty driving on curvy Country Roads and the occasional agility sprints on the interstate. I don't track my car, but I've known others who have tracked theirs on the Michelins with good results.

Don't forget about your oem VLSD, as they can cause this as well :ugh2:

Yeah man, my tires hopped a ton on OEM Bridgestone. I switched to Conti Sport and it literally all went away. I even still had reasonable tread depth on the stock tires. I took the new tires to the track and they didn’t hop at all. Even on little corner exit slip, it was incredibly smooth. I would switch to a different tire.

Are these the ones you speak of???

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...CSXL&tab=Specs

I'd still go with the Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires... Tire Rack's Review indicates the Michelin PSPs are better rated -

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests...y.jsp?ttid=223

I've had the Continentals, S-04, PSS and the P4S and the P4S are the best. I still get wheel hop though so I just ordered the diff bushing upgrade from Z1 since they are on sale.

I can confirm that solid diff bushings alone do NOT fix wheel hop. You will need to get poly or solid sub frame bushings.

Z1 has subframe collars that will help.

Super Sports are previous generation. Best street/summer tires are the Contis ECS and P4S

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...eContact+Sport

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...Pilot+Sport+4S

+1 You would be surprised how much movement is in the Genuine Nissan OEM rubber subframe bushings a specially when they start showing signs of wear.

I probably should have ordered the collars when I ordered the diff bushings. The car has a weird shift at the rear when transitioning from hard cornering in one direction to the other direction on the track.

Z1 Motorsport wheel hop suggestions useless!
 

2012 20k kilometers with typical wheel hop. Replacing diff bushings with Z1 Motorsport urethane changed nothing! Adding Z1 subframe collar inserts changed nothing! Don't waste your time and money! Many reports indicate that solid metal diff and subframe bushings don't completely eliminate this problem! Not sure what to try next.

2014 with 47k. Did the same mods as you, with the same results! The car feels slightly better, but no change in wheel hop.

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Try spl traction arms, I’ve got spl everything on rear and diff bushings, did the trick for me. Also if you have excess rear camber that contributes to it as well.


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So, my story. Got Fairlady z34 6MT just with 10k miles on the ODO, put Toyo R888R tyres, a lot of hard pulls and drag racing, then start to notice little wheel hop, then more and more. Finally rear diff bushing was shot, front diff bushings bolts loosened, replaced it with z1 uretane, will see in the summer :)

The rear wheel hop remedy requires replacing the factory bushings in each knuckle, lower control arms, upper control arms, and upgrading camber and traction arms which also possess factory rubber. This is an extremely challenging and time consuming DIY project. It required some hole edge grinding / angling with a carbide burr to better seat the replacement bushings in order to get them started with a ball joint press, as the Whiteline bushings do not have the tapered end that the factory bushings do. This was all required to remedy wheel hop despite having previously replaced diff bushings, added diff brace, and inserted sub frame collars which did not lessen the severity at all. I suspect a significant % of non professionals who attempt this project will require professional assistance, so consider carefully before getting started!

My SPL bushings went right in using a ball joint press. The sub-frame collars still let the sub-frame move about. The factory bushings do not have a taper to them. They are straight.

Spherical vs urethane.
 

By all accounts it seems the SPL (spherical bushings) are easier to install, but much pricier, noisier and create more vibration which are obstacles for those of us who rarely if ever visit the track or drift. Remedying the wheel hop as I have with the urethane for the street allows me to now drive the factory hp to it's full potential and beyond should I increase same, even on the well worn Bridgestones.:tiphat: