Mild track setup (BC Racing ER)
 

:happynewyear:
Happy new year everyone!

I'm finally getting around to making some suspension adjustments on my 2015 Nismo. I think i have a plan, but would love any additional insight.

Phase I: I'll start with BC Racing ER Series coilovers. The Nismo is a weekend and track-day car (nothing competitive though). I'm in downtown Chicago, so I'll only be dropping the car by .75" - 1" initially. At that drop and on stock Nismo wheels, I think I can get away without camber arms up front, but I will use SPL titanium camber arms in the rear. At .75" - 1" drop, do I need toe bolts?

Phase II: Assuming that I'm happy with how the coilovers perform, eventually I will seek to drop the car a bit more. This would involve installing an air cup system up front to avoid clearance issues, SPL camber arms up front and SPL rear mid links to get toe back in spec. To accommodate for the cups and rear mid links, Phase II would also see an upgrade to Swift springs (although I need to do more digging on spring rates).

For my intended uses, am I overlooking anything?

I think it would be a good idea to buy the front and rear camber kit at the same time if you plan on driving the car on a track. I would also recommend reading up on the track day best practices thread. Good luck and have fun :)

After experiencing some fortune coilovers on another platform and what I heard about them from local drivers, I can't recommend them enough at the sub $2000 price point

Get the swift spring upgrades on the 510 series

The spl stuff, get it all at once. One install, one alignment

If you get the BC's may as well do the swift upgrade from the start. Wasting money/time otherwise. That's what I did with mine (BC DR's with custom valving and 18K/14K swift springs).

I would recommend looking into Stance Coilovers, not only are they a solid option. They are headquartered not to far from you in Wheeling, IL. With their XR1 line up being in your budget and the local support to me it would be a no brainier!


For your other questions, you will want to have the toe bolts to be able to get the most out of the alignment even at that height. Front camber arms are not needed, but they help with getting the car dialed into your driving style.

If you have any questions at all shoot us a call at 410.593.7080



-Daelen

First. Get plenty of face time with the windshield at the track before doing major up-grades. This way you will have a feeling in what you need and want. Going down this rabbit hole will get $$$$$$$$ Dumping money into this before hitting the track can and will be $$$$$$ if you guess wrong on what you need.

Before hitting the track. Things to do. Bleed your brakes with good brake fluid. Use at least Motul 600. Oil cooler. Get a 34 row. People will tell that you don't need that much. But as your speed increases at the track. The hotter the engine will be. Do it once and be done. If you have a manual. Wrap your clutch line down be the drivers side header with insulation. This will help keep the fluid from boiling. And keep the reservoir full. Same with the brake reservoir.
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Thank you all for the input!

Rusty, I've been tracking the car for about a year and a half. The 34 row was the first thing done! I'm not sure if this is accurate, but I was told the larger one was all that would actually fit on the Nismo. I also went with Motul 600, but I did not wrap the clutch line, I'll have to put that on the list!

@OptionZero, I was looking at your set up and see that you went with an OEM style rear, with SPL rear mid links. Mind me asking why you went this route as opposed to a true rear? I'm weighing the options and a true rear would give me an extra $500 to spend on coils (as the rear mid link is about $500 more than toe arms), but I'm also nervous about the strut tower deforming.

Get the SPL upper control arms and a Hotchkis front sway bar. Set your front alignment to -2 camber, +7 caster, toe in 1/16". Rear camber -1.5 to -1.75, toe in 1/16". You'll still have good tire life on the street.

Your toe figures are total, right (still putting all these concepts together)?

Yeah. You want a little toe in. In the rear. If you go zero or toe out. You will get snap-oversteer more often. :eek:

There really isn't any benefit in running a true coil over in the rear, unless you also plan on reinforcing the strut towers or you really want a 1:1 motion ratio in the rear for some reason.

Aragosta probably could make some true types if I asked, but I didn't see any advantage and there are potential structural issues with the strut tower mounting area which weren't designed for true type

Probably fine in most cases but why **** around

370Chicago I'm interested in buying your Nismo springs if you decide to sell them.

I'm surprised that masseffect hasn't thrown his :twocents: in yet. :rofl2:

He has been pretty silent silent since we told him less is more in responding to request for information. SAD!!!

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