No but since they are oem style coilovers I have left the springs in place and removed the shocks, same height difference so it's not shock related either unfortunately.

Ok... that eliminates if it might have been a gas pressure difference. Check to see if there are numbers on the springs. They should match.

It looks like some of the issue was the area I was working on isn't as level as my friend believed it to be.

That being said there is still about 3/4" difference in the adjustment between the left and right rear.

http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...7607963588.jpg

These use the bottom rubber mount underneath the spring, correct? Make sure the spring is seated properly in that rubber mount. If it's rotated in the wrong position, it won't sit in the pre-molded slot. I did this initially in my install. Also make sure the top rubber cone mount is sitting the way it should be and is seated properly.

It's possible you have a bit of weight jacking going on from a improper cross weight.

Try adjusting the opposite side front perch and see if this balances it out any better. Before doing any more adjustments though. Have a friend measure the heights with you in the car. Then adjust the heights. This really need to be done on the flattest road you can find, if not the accuracy will always be off.

I did make sure all was seated properly.

I have it adjusted as good as it is going to get. There is only about a 1/2" difference between the coil spring height between the 2 sides.

This is definitely what appeared to be my issue and I did have to readjust the front once everything started to make sense. The place I was using has been used for at least 4 (The FD, a BRZ, S550 and my old NB) other cars suspension install that I can think of. All of which never ran into the issue I was having.

Still haven't gotten it aligned, my brother used to work for the Ford dealer so, he's pulling a few strings to be able to align it for me next saturday.

In the case of weight jacking to fix cross weight, you will most likely need to make asb endlink adjustments or you may start to get some rattling and steering problems.

You mean swaybar end links?

Any time you adjust ride height. You should have the sway bars disconnected.

asb =anti sway bar.

simply disconnecting them is not enough. they need to be re adjusted in order to set it back to zero load and fixing the position.

yeah the sways were disconnected when I was doing all this.

As far as adjusting them, they are stock at the moment. Next step is new tires and Hotchkis sways. Not sure I'll NEED the SPL adjustable endlinks (I understand their use etc, to spite this thread I'm not new to all this lol), sure do want them though.

See asb. thinking abs. :icon14: Didn't mention about needing adjusting afterwards. :icon14:

Adjustable endlinks are more so needed for adjustable ride height than they are for the actual sway bars. Without them you can have binding and unwanted asb preload.

Can you talk more about how the sways and links adjust the ride height? wouldn't it be ideal to have them both set equally on each side?

They don't adjust ride height, they adjust asb pre-load. In the case of adjustable ride height and corner balancing, the actual lengths between one corner and the opposing may not be equal, as such the length of the endlink needs to be modified accordingly to zero out preload on the sway bar. Having a endlink with a fixed length limits your ability to reduce asb preload in the situations where you have to adjust ride height.

As much as 5mm of height indifference corner to corner is enough to make a significant amount of preload on the sway bar. on average you can have up to 10mm of height difference depending on the driver weight. This is enough to put a lot of bind in the axle and start cause worn out endlinks and subsequent "noises". It will also impact steering linearity and weight jacking through a corner depending on which side is preloaded more.