Suggestion for rotors?
 

I need to buy rotors and was looking up what's out there other than oem. I'm looking at slotted and possibly cryo treated.
Has anyone had experience with cryo treated rotors and if it's worth the extra? I've heard they get twice the life and don't warp.

Thaaaaaanks

Not sure what your driving is, but as a daily driver myself I use Z1's slotted rotors with Centric Posi-quiet pads. Feel very similar to OEM. Difference is that the pads don't junk up the rotors after like two high speed braking trials.

Z1 rotors. If you're a baller. 2 piece Racing Brake. :D

If you're just daily driving and looking for longevity, i'm not sure there's a better value than OEM blanks from your local parts store

There's all sorts of options, out there. Like rusty said, 2 pcs rotors are great, but . . . for bumming around town, overkill

Track? Sure

What's the difference between RB and Z1? Is it a lot lighter?

I'm looking for longer life for the most part I guess. I drive it every other day. I did check out Z1. Was just gonna see if there are other opinions. Not a baller, but I'd spend the little extra for good quality.

Thanks for the tips!

The Racing Brake are more for track use. And are more $$. They was out before the 2 piece Z1 rotors. The rotors on the RB are of a different grade of cast iron than other rotors. So you have to watch your pad choice.

Standard blanks. They work well for street driving and are inexpensive. The cost savings far out ways anything that higher priced "long life" rotors offer.

I would recommend the hi carbon version. I believe they helped me get around 30% more life from my XP8 pads. They're only $2 more than the standard blanks at tire rack. Don't think you can go wrong with that little upgrade. I'll probably go with them again once I go through my Z1 slotted rotors.

I would recommend Stop Tech slotted rotors, they are one piece rotors, which means they are a bit heavier than 2 piece rotors, but braking is pretty much the same, if you buy a package they might come with free brake pads.

BTW all rotors warp, it all depends on proper braking.

I have installed these on my Z all around and immediately felt the OEM vs StopTech difference in braking, its VERY noticeable.

you may need to get your butt recalibrated

slotted rotors don't cause you to brake any harder/faster. I mean, just think of the physics. The brake caliper/pad and rotor haven't changed size, the MC is pumping the same amount of fluid so the pressure is the same. why the hell would brake force in crease because the rotors have some slots cut into them?

the slots are for cooling, so its an endurance thing more than a brake force thing

and this dude is just bumming around the street, why the hell would he need slotted rotors? blanks are the best solution for his needs

I see that some ppl think differently sooo lets watch This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78wbht355R8 to pick out the best rotor shall we...

We have a bunch of variables here.

Vented and non vented. We have vented.

Next is blank, drilled, slotted, drilled and slotted. Blank and the slotted are good for the track. Drilled, drilled and slotted are for looks on the street. Should not use them on the track because of the chance of cracking at the drill holes. The idea behind the drilled and the slotted rotors are to out gas the pads. Pads used to give off gas as they got hot. This lead to race teams to drill the rotors to help with braking. The pads now no longer need this.

Rotor material. There is different types of cast iron used in making rotors. From powder iron (cheap to make), to high grade gray iron ($$$). With some rotors. You have to watch what pads you use with some rotors because of the type of iron used.

The last variable. One piece vs 2 piece rotors. 2 piece rotors are more $$$. If you are racing or heavy into trackdays. They make sense. Or you are looking for the racecar looks. 1 piece rotors are cheaper, and easier to get. Last just as long as 2 piece.

Just my view on the subject. ;)

That video didn't address ****, it's all general stuff most car folks should already know

1) you said that switching from stock to slotted rotors noticeably increased ur braking power. Slotted rotors dont do that. If noticed a change in braking force, it isn't due to a difference factor. U either changed other parts, or ur existing brakes were shot and simply going to new rotors, and I'm guess new PADS as well simply restored what was lost

2). The advantage of rotors is heat disappation, I supposed whatever value from cleaning" the pad that dude talked about in the vid. These things matter when braking REPEATEDLY, like on a track or hard driving conditions

The DISADVANTAGE is decreased pad life

This thread starter is not track driving and is LESS wear. So ur slotted suggestion does the opposite of what ur suggestion brings

Isn't there one more variable, such as how the "drilled" holes are achieved?

High end mfg cast their rotors with holes , where as cheaper options literally drill holes in blanks, which causes structural weakness

Is that right, or an old wives tale?

Anyways I'd never use anything but blankets on the street, just pointless to do anything else. Doing any track I'd stop ******* around and jump to 2pc and more aggressive pads

ok guy...look slotted rotors are BETTER than plane OEM rotors and here is why, first the metal that they are made out of is far better that OEM and because of that they dont tend to warp as easy or wear out, yes they are heavier than OEM, but remember OEM was made to reduce wight in order to gain higher miles per gallon and easier recycling.

Second, the slotted part of the rotor removes gunk build up on the brake pads by shaving it off and eliminating air btw the pad and rotor for better braking grip.

And third, it does wear your brake pads a bit faster, but this is subjective because every one has different braking habits.

If for example you are in traffic breaking all the time, breaks heat up, gunk keeps building up on that pad and then a burst of gas to catch up and at this moment some ******* cuts right in to your lane, you hit the brake.....aaand you barely are braking due to gunk build up and air btw the pad+rotor, not to mention boiling brake fluid. Guess what ur hitting that ***.

You know that rotors don't actually warp, right?

Geeze, I need to have my blank disks taken to my friends machine shop and cut some slots in them to make them turn into better metal. Because that's how slotted brakes are made.

No really??? and all this time i thought it was the uneven surface on the rotor caused by improper braking.





yeah let me know how that works out 4 u.

You really sound like someone who watched that video, bought slotted rotors, and wanna feel good about yourself.

"slotted rotors are made of better metal than OEM"?

"cleaning the gunk will make you stop faster!"

Enjoy your super hard braking slotted rotors if you wanna pat yourself on the back, but dont try to make everyone else dumber along the way

Does't matter if the hole is drilled or cast in. It will still crack at the hole. And the cast hole still has to be machined to clean it up. It's cheaper to machine the hole then to cast it in. Machining with CNC. It's just 3 more steps to program in. Which you still have to do with cast in holes. Cast holes have more complexity because of the mold.

Did I recommend at type type of rotor to use to the OP? Don't think I did. Just pointed out some differences.

I could care less on what you use. It's your money. If you use carbon on carbon. Then it's :yum::yum::yum:

I think the main problem is this:

Most of us simply do not have long enough commutes of sustained braking use to properly heat up the pads slowly enough. So then it becomes nothing nothing nothing and then: OH! there are a few turns I'm going to hit hard, then hard braking leading to deposits over time, leading to the throbbing pedal after anywhere from 3-6 months on a stock rotor/pad combo.

I've had this happen on the last four cars I've owned. I believe there are two ways you can remedy it:

A) change your driving behavior and accept the reality of the stock pads
B) attack it through different equipment (hence the debate on which/why/how)

I'll tell you what has worked for me every single time on the last four vehicles:

Pads: Ebc Redstuff / your choice, just not stock, something that can take some heat but I wouldn't suggest track pads as they may not heat up enough on short drives.

Rotors: Some basic slotted rotors will work fine. I Had ebc's on my wrx, never had an issue with them. If you really want to go all out, I'd strongly suggest a 2-piece rotor from Z1 atleast for the fronts. If you have a choice, a "sprinkle slotted" rotor design from my experience makes less noise than a fully slotted setup. The EBC's did make a ton of noise on my wrx, but I never had the pad deposit issue show up again. I did have some genuine brembo drilled rotors on the wrx, never had an issue with them, but they were not cheap, and last time i checked they don't make them for the 370.

I've read in other places that you can stick with stock rotors and simply go with a different pad, which I've never actually tried, but it sounds like that may be the cheapest solution, but it would really suck if you picked the wrong pad that left deposits, leading to doing it all over again... So I'd ask more on pad choices vs. commute/use.

Def get your hands on some Motul 600 fluid and flush them out really well!

I can say confidently I love my 2 piece Z1's front/rear combo with ebc redstuffs, motul 600, and SS Lines, but it wasn't cheap, and I don't actually push them often enough to warrant it, but I get back time NOT at the stupid dealership which is $$$. The few times I do push it, It's one less thing I have to think about while tackling a set of corners, now I'm staring at the oil temp gauge and wishing I had a front sway bar and "how much more $ is a Porsche cayman s?" :rofl2: