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Tire pressure comes to mind also.
What are you running? |
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As little camber in the rear, increase camber in the front. |
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Dead in the middle of the spec is best. No fudging one way or the other with all settings. As stated above, Autocross and track setups are different. When they get it right you will know right away.
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Wait, so do I want zero Toe in the front and back or just a tad bit of Toe In...in the front and Zero Toe in the Back? I'm all confused. Some of you are saying Zero Toe Front and Back and some are saying a little bit of Toe In
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I originally had mine at .125"F & .250"Rear....kept a really straight line & gradually backed off till i got .094"F & .188"R-performing nicely.
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In relation to the above info. Setting zero toe will allow the front tires to gain more toe out under compression in the front (braking/turning/bump). In addition to this, Adding toe-in on the rear (only) will actually increase the wandering on the front axle as it changes the pivoting angle slightly. As mentioned above, its best to set a bit of toe in on both axles. If you set zero toe front, you will actually get better high speed straight line stability with a bit of toe out in the rear. Under rear compression the car is set to toe in (acceleration/turn/bump). During cruising and hard braking however it may fish tail a bit more.
To mitigate both instances, it's best you get rid of the rubber lca bushings for something a bit stiffer. Sorry for the oddly worded description. Typing from phone. |
Unsure about all the details that Mays says; but little or no toe in rear will make the tail end dance around-especially if you go negative.
Also; I'm pretty sure you supposed to line up the rear before going to the front..& this may sound weird & the alignment shop may not do it....but road test it good & then throw back on the rack..as it seems things will settle. I performed my own alignment & had to tweak it over a couple week span-to get the drive & measurements I was looking for. A real learning process. |
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If you are using the string and ruler alignment technique it doesn't matter which axle you do first as long as you are using some form of turn plate under all four wheels. If you're only using turn plates on one axle at a time, then yes, rears first, reset the string, then fronts. In all cases, doing it on uneven ground will result in a incorrect alignment no matter what. 1/2 inch of unevenness is enough to mess up accuracy. Plus J, you have massive tires so i can't imagine this being easy to do :eekdance:. |
May's;
It has been a learning experience for sure...no turn plates. I tweaked a tad every day or 2 & kept up with all of my adjustments made;as the least incorrect adjustment & steering wheel can get mis-aligned. Treadwear is very good on tires. |
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