Additional Brake Cooling?
 

Question
How do i get more air to the brakes? I've never seen more than the stillen kit on a 370z.
- Also this is my only car... so it can't be stupid for usability. :-)


After a 2 mile cool down:

• front rotors were: 850F
• front calipers: 450F
• oil temp: 270+ (no limp mode tho, so yay)

Track day specs:

• Carbotech XP8 pads on all 4 corners
• DBA-5000 2-piece rotors on the front
• Stillen brake ducting kit
• Toyo R888 tires

:tiphat:

Quickest solution but most expensive would be . . . throwing $6K at a Stillen/AP Racing RadiCAL or some other similar system

but how bout these? Z1 2-pc rotors. They are internally vented in a manner i don't think the DBA ones are.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/brakes...rs-p-7025.html

As for the oil temps . . . time for a 34 row?

I mean, does AP Racing have a cooler vented rotor than DBA does?
- DBA has their own proprietary vane system

Oil temps yeah... I'd imagine another 9 rows on the cooler would help.

Well, i mentioned the RadiCAL system (or something from Brembo, etc) because it would accomodate an even larger rotor for more heat disappation

but it seems like their rotors are internally vented based on the pics here:
Why Upgrade Your Brakes | AP Racing Radi-Cal Big Brake Kits by STILLEN


Sounds like based on your use and tires you are reaching the limits of the OEM braking system and it may be time to step up to a "big brake kit"

That's not how this works. While I will concede that surface area is directly proportional to convective heat transfer capability, surface area and volume do not increase at a 1:1 ratio as you increase the diameter of the rotor. With what you're proposing, you're just increasing heat storage at a faster rate than you are cooling capability. In other words: Once it gets hot, it's staying hot.

How about larger duct or secondary ducts?

Additionally, keep in mind that the ferrous rotors used in endurance racing commonly reach temperatures of 1500°F or higher under braking (this is the glow you see during night races).

IMHO I'd consider a secondary duct for the caliper and call it a day for now. You might also look into some temperature indicating paint to determine just how hot the rotors and calipers are getting at peak temperature. Temperature indicating paint

You need more air thru the rotor.

Your sig says you have the stillen kit and that is only 50mm hose - you need 75 or 100mm

You need to direct air into the centre of the rotor and that requires a backing plate to make sure the air is definitely directed into the centre of the rotor. You should be able to modify the Stillen backing plate to suit larger hose

Oil temps at 270 degrees is too close to the edge and a bigger cooler is needed. Ideally, oil temp should be within 10-15 degrees of water temps

:iagree:

You need more air. If you can't run a 3" or 4" hose. Run 2, 2" hoses to each rotor. One front, one rear of the coil-over.

You need bigger oil cooler too.

Change your oil asap. Once oil sees temps over 250/260 it breaks down very fast and becomes useless. Better the oil of course and better the base stock used the longer it'll last though.

Thank you for the heads up.
I'll swap out oil this weekend.

And rotors
And shocks
And pads
And tires
And wheels

Sheesh, i don't think i have enough weekend!!

For all of those recommending extra brake ducting... here's another question...


Question
- Has anyone done a 2nd hose to their rotor before?

I'm open to suggestions. BUT not sure how to do fitment.

hmm...

A couple of people have done the 2nd hose. Just can't remember who. The one was on a Nismo with the Nismo RC brake ducts, which have a 4" opening. They used a 4" to 2-2" hose splitter. You just may need to have a larger inlet opening.

I'm using the front bumper "fangs" that stillen provided with their kit.
Wondering where a different intake might go. *scratches head

Maybe you could put a couple of generic NACA ducts on the undertray and use that as the air intake to the hoses.

I just had an 72 row oil cooler installed. The theory is that the additional surface area, the volume of oil and the amount time the oil spends in the cooler will lead to lower oil temps. I hope it becomes reality and not just a theory lol!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

72???

I thought i was doing okay with a 25 row. lol

I know someone here did this. He cut two openings on the Zspeed undertray. I'm trying to find the thread. The shop that I took my car to mentioned that as a possible solution as well.

For now, something related:

http://www.the370z.com/other-vehicle...ml#post2075927

Edit: Found the thread, ducts @ undertray, http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...t-install.html

Remember, he's got a boost buggy.

Think one guy cut his fangs out. Made a plate with 2 holes in it for each side. Can't find the post or the pictures of it.

I would do 34...more is better in my opinion and I know others say 25 is enough but on days near over a 100* you will be good to go.

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For reference... the video of my track day is now uploaded to YouTube.

Video and stats in another thread.

Before ducts

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...639d2d295b.jpg

After

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c551089b2c.jpg

With Z1 vented two piece rotors my brakes are bulletproof at the track. Make sure to bleed on some RBF 600 or similar high temp brake fluid to avoid boiling the brakes (and then crashing)

I've run many pads and for a weekend warrior like the hawk plus pads although they are pretty dusty.

Consider swapping pads to OEM when not tracking just to keep the dust and noise down. (Also track pads are hard on your rotors when they are not heated up (like on DD)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a1128f18f6.jpg

Swapping brakes is easy, just pull the pins back off the pistons by pressing them back into the caliper and drop in the new pad. It takes about 5 minutes (tops) per wheel.

2 piece vented rotors also go on very easily

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c6e898f996.jpg

:iagree: I run a similar set up and have had no issues with brake fade.

No issues with fade, but rotors are 850 F after 2-mile cooldown.

*sizzle

Wonder what the peak temp was?