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And you will see that no matter how well you get your car all modded up and tuned in, some dude or gal in a way lesser car will humble you.
There's always a faster car. Some days it's you :) |
I don't track but I can tell you after the oil cooler, good tires, good alignment setting, brake fluid, and brake pads your best beat is to upgrade the rear diff to a better LSD than stock. The stock VLSD will do the one wheel wonder like crazy.
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My track car setup, which is very fast on most of the track around here.
500whp fyi, understeer on exit is not an issue. Front: kw v3 revalved, 950lb/in springs or around 17kg/mm Whiteline front sway bar and end links. Kinetix upper arm w/-3.1* camber, around 7* caster, 0 toe SPL compliance bushing and lower arm bushing. REAR: KW V3 revalved, 750lb/in or 13k Stock sway bar SPL knuckle bushings -1.75* camber/ 1/8-1/4 total toe in (depends on how fast the track is) 315 toyo r888 fron and rear is the usual tire. So you need any of this? NO, but this amount of roll stiffness is what it takes to make a fast car. It sucks on the street even valved properly. Most of the issues with this car revolve around keeping it cool, not suspension setup. Zack |
Your setup isn't really relevant, as is it dedicated setup. I don't doubt it's fast, but the original poster himself said he has zero track experience and it will be 99% street
When you get to the point of replacing knuckle bushings with solid pieces, you're beyond streetable imo. I've done it. Its a huge step. |
Suppose, although the ride actually get better because of less binds. The noise on the other hand is a problem.
Also very little here is relevant. As has been stated over and over, start with a stock car and learn how to wheel it, buy brakes and tires. My car is what you end up with after saying "just one more mod" for 6 years. Zack |
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