Agreed. There are a ton of great deals on BF...

Talked to Charles at Powertrix....he is a great guy. He said the Nismo dampers are really the problem with the ride quality and that ride quality and handling can both be improved along with keeping approximately stock height (drop of around 1/2 inch) so nothing but an alignment is necessary....sounds like a great option if the ride quality gets too unbearable....

Thanks for the heads up! But...you can buy them new for virtually that price. I am always amazed when I see people selling things for basically the same price as new. Buying new you have no risk of not receiving, you get them brand new, full vendor support, no missing parts or damage nor damage in shipping. If you do have damage or missing parts you can send them back. Warranty if available etc etc I always sell my resale parts for at least 40% to 50% off considering relative to new ...but I guess there are suckers everywhere..

yah, just buy new... unless like it's like a close buddy u know it aint worth da hassle.

Nearly always better off buying new. That said I've got a set of Nismo springs coming that I'll mount on the regular shock bodies. Used in that case just means they are broken in and don't need to wait weeks for them spot settle so I can do a once around the block and align them. Well, that and it was only $100. Worth taking the chance for that price.

I got a great deal on a used 2015 headlight it was like 450 dollars off...was perfect except a wire loom clip was broken. That was a good deal..most resales are not.

Why is the rear spring rates stiffer on our cars?
Nismo Spring Rates:
F - 8.6kgf/mm (480lbs/inch)
R - 9.3kgf/mm (520lbs/inch)

Then when looking at coilover options like powertrix the spring rates flip?
Using swifts F-12 R-11

I suppose it has to do with the OEM damper valving...but seems like I read long ago that most rear wheel drive cars would/should have stiffer spring rates in the front.
I suppose our cars ride is maybe a clue. With fairly low spring rates in general in the front and rear... the harshness of the ride must be in the way the engineers tuned the valving in the dampers? ...so perhaps this is why the spring rates are stiffer in the rear and less in the front on our cars. However, when you switch to coilovers the valving is more "normal" and spring rates then switch back to a more agreed upon normal of stiffer in front and less stiff on the rear?:confused:

You would have to ask a Nissan Engineer on that one. I have no idea why they setup the suspension the way they did. It works and is very neutral with all the nannies turned off. It is just harsh on a bumpy road.

I have a 2012 nismo and it beat me up on the streets. so I really paid attention to what I was feeling going over these bumps. what I figured out was the *** end was the main problem. my remedy was simply replace the rear shocks (Dampers) with a stock set of sport dampers. night and day difference in the way it feels on the roads now. smoothed out the jarring effect going down the road. found a set on here for $25.00. totally happy with it now. no height change, no alignment cost just pure pleasure.

You know, this is a great idea if I ever go on road trips. It's also incredibly easy to do.


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I am going to try this too....just PM'd you.

I'll give you $25 for the Nismo shocks you swapped out :tup:

Our engines aren't as heavy.

They're just dialing out the inherent understeer by increasing the rear spring rate at the cost of ride quality. You can change the sway bar diameter but any increase is just tying both halves the the suspension together even more so than the stock setup. And the Z has a massively staggered tire setup too which doesn't help in that department. I ended up with a square setup on my G and it made a very noticeable difference in the car's neutrality.

I use a 12f/10r setup and I'd consider going down 1-2K in the rear but then I'd bring the understeer back. On decent roads, it's a brilliant setup with body roll virtually eliminated. It'll get a little firm out back while on really nasty roads but the fronts always seem to work really well. I've been driving round Southern California for the past few days and they'd be borderline acceptable. Had no idea Cali had such poor roads.

If the rear sport shocks don't do it for you, and you're willing to wait a few weeks, order a set of the Aragostas. No real downside and they're the only kit that can keep you at stock ride height (even above) and they have superior response/damping compared to the Nismo shocks.

Another option is to go with Infiniti IPL shocks. Same as the Nismo shocks with slightly different valving. I found they did not have enough low speed compression damping but the ride was super comfy and otherwise spot-on in the handling dept. No crashing or otherwise out of control body movement (and on a heavier car).

So the sport shocks will improve the ride quality but will the handling in your opinion be negatively impacted significantly? More understeer...?
I guess it does not matter as I will keep the nismo dampers in case I go to the track....

Suspension Worksheet | eibach.com/america

"Wheel Rate is the actual rate of a spring acting at the tire contact patch"

Simplifying the exercise by using 90 degree spring angle, motion ratio of approximately 0.65 front and 0.55 rear, I am getting wheel rate of 3.6kg and 2.8kg respectively. So, at the OEM spring location, the front is still heavier sprung than the rear.

This is my simple understanding.

Just purchased the rear sport shocks brand new...I will report back when I get them installed on the ride improvement!

Hey I thought I would share my confusion with everyone regarding the sport shocks...and what I found out.

In 2013 (the year of my car) they had 3 shock options. 1 for the base model, 1 for the sport model and 1 for the Nismo. Shocks for base are 1EA1E and in 2013 and they used 1EA2A for the sport model. Apparently the sport model in 2013 got a shock upgrade they called "euro tuned."

http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...Untitled_1.png

Before that it appears that the base and the sport shared the same 1EA1E shocks (pre 2013)...perhaps the sport package had stiffer springs or different suspension parts that warranted calling it a "sport" Nonetheless if you get the sport shocks pre 2013 your actually getting the same shocks used in the base model in all the years from 2009 to 2014.
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...tte/2011_1.png

As far as I know, they used the same shocks wether it was a base or sport package for the pre-13's. only the Nismo's have a different shock and spring setup.


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So I installed part number E6210-1EA2A : Euro Tuned 2013 sport shocks today....
I will say the ride improved ....it now feels like a normal sports car, allot like my C6 corvette did. Instead of a spine smasher....this is what I was looking for. I purchased them new for approximately 300. Saved about 1k instead of buying coilovers, maintained the ride height which was my goal, and improved the ride in town. If I go to the track I can switch out to the Nismo shocks. Pretty easy to switch them out too...

Thanks for this tip ...I changed mine out yesterday and this is exactly what I was looking for. :tup:

yeah I am still running this setup. it is perfect for the nasty roads here in cali. I kept the stock shocks just in case I felt I needed to go racing someday. anyway I have always had rear wheel drive cars and my butt dyno tells me to keep it stiff up front and a little softer in the rear (with in reason) based on total horsepower you have to work with. (come in hot and leave with everything you got.) ha ha or something like that