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-   -   Steering wheel/seat vibration, braking pulls right! (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/117181-steering-wheel-seat-vibration-braking-pulls-right.html)

NOLA 10-05-2016 06:24 AM

Steering wheel/seat vibration, braking pulls right!
 
I have checked the forum for an answer. None are solid answers IMO.

I have a 2010 Nismo (stock suspension, wheels, stock akebono, and factory size tires) and I have steering wheel and seat vibration at certain speeds, and under braking. The car pulls right as well when braking. Here is what I have done to try and fix the problem:

New tires
Road force balance
New rotors and pads
New brake fluid & several bleeds

To answer any obvious pieces of advice:

I've ensured tire pressure is always the correct pressure
I've had several alignments and tire balances.
The old rotors/pads had this problem and now have been replaced.
New Rotors/pads were imbedded properly.
Pads have even wear as far as I can tell.


What is next in figuring out how to fix the steering wheel/seat vibration under braking and not braking? As well as the pulling right under braking.

SouthArk370Z 10-05-2016 07:34 AM

First thing I'd try is bedding the brakes again to burn off deposits.

If bedding doesn't help, I'd start looking for worn/loose steering/suspension parts.

NOLA 10-05-2016 07:39 AM

I'll do that today on my way to work and after work. I checked under the car last night at sway bars, end links, and control arms. It's hard to tell if something is bad without any rubber parts looking bad. I'll look again and I'll get back on here when it's all done. What do you think about caliper reselling?

SouthArk370Z 10-05-2016 08:00 AM

A visual check of the suspension may not find much (as with visually checking a fuse, some faults are obvious, some are not). You need to get the car on a lift and put the components in a bind.

Calipers are not usually high wear items, so I would have no problem selling/buying used calipers after checking the piston walls.

Edit: Saw your duplicate post and, since the vibration is happening when you are not braking, that leads me to believe that it's not a rotor deposit problem. Assuming your tire tech did a good job inspecting wheels/tires, I'd say you have a worn part(s).

NOLA 10-05-2016 09:27 AM

- Brake Pad Bedding-
So I re-bedded the pads on my way to work about 3-4 times of 45mph to almost 5mph. Then 6-8 times 60mph and hard breaking to about 10mph.
Once I finished, I wasn't in an area to get to the speed it usually vibrates when not breaking and the traffic was heavy enough that I couldn't get a feel of brake vibration from that high coasting speed.

- Brake Calipers -
After bedding my brakes, I have some leakage on the FL caliper from the top bleeder screw. I will order new bleeder screws, Z1 brake lines, and a re-seal kit for all my calipers to rebuild them. It may not solve the symptoms but it will fix the leakage and will eliminate any possible issues with the caliper(s).

- Suspension Parts -
Meanwhile, I have been looking through the forum about sway bar end links and suspension components being worn out/needing grease. Note: I don't have uneven tire wear and my tires are a year only with roughly 15,000 miles on them. I am considering greasing my joints (hope that solves issue before I purchase parts) because I also have clunking in the front end when I'm driving on rough road.

- Driveline -
I did notice that my differential bushing is leaking, so I will be ordering the kit from Z1 Motorsports and I will use the DIY in the forum.
My rear axle had clicking a year ago and it was torqued by Nissan. Well, now that's back, likely due to the stress from a bad diff bushing. So I'll be torquing that myself.

stansens 10-05-2016 08:44 PM

It definitely sounds like a caliper that is not releasing properly or a brake flex hose that is deteriorating on the inside. Had a nissan xtrail that had a bad hose...very difficult to diagnose. A little flap of rubber peels off partially inside the hose letting fluid get to the caliper but when you release the brake pedal not all the fluid goes back because the flap creates an obstruction. This means the caliper is still squeezing causing pulling to one side and vibration as well. Strange issue but it does happen.


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