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-   -   Wobbling, bouncing around - high speed cornering (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/113985-wobbling-bouncing-around-high-speed-cornering.html)

zefaulter 07-05-2016 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B&W_Evader (Post 3510373)
One more thing for you to check... Are the tires still spinning the same direction as they where originally? Old-school says you shouldn't swap sides when rotating tires because something bad happens to the tires. What I know to be a fact is that the wear, especially on the fronts, will make the tires feel loose for at least a few hundred miles while they wear in. It will be worse than new tires for a while.

I had the tires flipped from side to side. Directions are correct. Is that what you mean?

B&W_Evader 07-05-2016 02:28 PM

If you corner hard, your tires will develop a saw tooth patter on the outside edge. Must be some sort of deflection in the rubber when corning that creates high spots when corning. If the tire is move the stress will be different and the tire and the car will feel loose until it wears all the new high spots off. That's my theory anyway.

zefaulter 07-06-2016 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B&W_Evader (Post 3510513)
If you corner hard, your tires will develop a saw tooth patter on the outside edge. Must be some sort of deflection in the rubber when corning that creates high spots when corning. If the tire is move the stress will be different and the tire and the car will feel loose until it wears all the new high spots off. That's my theory anyway.

Thanks for sharing this. I have a feeling you're onto something because things have improved with a couple hundred miles. But maybe I'm just getting used to it

zefaulter 07-20-2016 08:05 PM

Still does it :(

2011 Nismo#91 07-21-2016 09:09 AM

Remove the rear bar completely and see if the problem gets better worse. It's not really necessary a number of people that track their car find it's not too beneficial.

killrain 08-03-2016 02:56 PM

Updates?

zefaulter 08-03-2016 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by killrain (Post 3529381)
Updates?

Out of town for the week. Going to install FUCA and get realigned. I'll put the stock rear sways possibly at the same time just hate having to remove everything in the process

wanabgts 08-03-2016 05:19 PM

This is a problem with all of the cars IMO, my car had the same issue. Especially with the stock suspension. These cars have a TON of camber change throughout the suspension travel, which with low offset wheels or big tires etc can cause the rear to feel very unstable. The bumpsteer is actually pretty good for a car that has this much travel.

My track day car was scary with 315's until I got the suspension firm enough to limit the change to acceptable range. My car will go from negative 1.8* rear to +5* before I hit the limit of my downtravel.

When I put springs on my car and big front bar, the car was much more stable.

Zack

**edit****

I think have non-adjustable rear lower arms also is a problem, the longer arm length you will have with an adjustable arm when lowered would help greatly with geometry changes.

B&W_Evader 08-04-2016 09:43 AM

Couple more things to check on each tire...

Wheel Bearings: lift it off the ground and Push/Pull Top and Bottom (12 & 6 o-clock). Do it with gusto! There should be very little to no play. Less than 1/64 inch at the rim I would think is fine.

Control arms: Have someone else Push/Pull 3 & 9 o-clock. Watch the control arms. If you see the ends shift in their seats, replace them.

Shocks maybe?
How do your shocks feel? Does the car settle immediately after a large bump or does it take a 2 or 3 cycles to settle.

Also, I would expect a little instability over cobblestone type roads since we have fairly stiff suspensions. If you want better stability over that kind of surface go with the dual rate springs like swift.

zefaulter 09-08-2016 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B&W_Evader (Post 3529975)
Couple more things to check on each tire...

Wheel Bearings: lift it off the ground and Push/Pull Top and Bottom (12 & 6 o-clock). Do it with gusto! There should be very little to no play. Less than 1/64 inch at the rim I would think is fine.

Control arms: Have someone else Push/Pull 3 & 9 o-clock. Watch the control arms. If you see the ends shift in their seats, replace them.

Shocks maybe?
How do your shocks feel? Does the car settle immediately after a large bump or does it take a 2 or 3 cycles to settle.

Also, I would expect a little instability over cobblestone type roads since we have fairly stiff suspensions. If you want better stability over that kind of surface go with the dual rate springs like swift.

It's the rear shocks... I'll have to confirm but going over speed bump yesterday I went a little fast intentionally and the rear kept bouncing for a couple seconds

zefaulter 09-08-2016 08:08 AM

This seems like a very common problem when you're lowered with stock struts. Scary stuff on the highway for sure

gbrettin 09-08-2016 09:05 AM

I had something similar happen to my car after RE-11's were mounted. I have Whiteline sways in the front and rear and both were set to the stiffest setting. When I tested my car on a long sweeping corner, after the RE-11's were installed, the rear of my car wouldn't settle and wobble.

The fix for me was to back out the stiffness on the sways all the way around the car.

gbrettin 09-08-2016 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zefaulter (Post 3549719)
It's the rear shocks... I'll have to confirm but going over speed bump yesterday I went a little fast intentionally and the rear kept bouncing for a couple seconds

Ahhh, blown shock...

Glad you got it figured out!

zefaulter 10-16-2016 02:49 PM

please someone just come stab me in the ***.... car still doing it after new Koni yellow install, alignment, swaybar end links...**** me


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