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-   -   Alignment specs please!! (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/111788-alignment-specs-please.html)

Wonka2581 03-02-2016 09:45 AM

Alignment specs please!!
 
Getting my alignment done tomorrow, and spoke with dude at Nissan and he told me he can put the specs to whatever I want. That being said..


What would you guys recomend. My car is for street and occasional track/auto cross day. Any specs would be a big help!

DEpointfive0 03-02-2016 09:53 AM

What adjustment arms have you added?

If you haven't added camber arms, a toe adjustment or front upper control arms, he can't make it whatever you want, just saying

osbornsm 03-02-2016 10:11 AM

http://i68.tinypic.com/14r4g4.jpg

Wonka2581 03-02-2016 10:15 AM

Z1 upper and SPL rear with toe bolts were added. And I'm not looking for stock specs. I'm looking for something that handles good, better then stock that is good for the street and track.. Also something that won't kill my tires

DEpointfive0 03-02-2016 10:55 AM

I did a lot of research on this recently because I installed all SPL stuff.
The general consensus is that in the front you need caster, almost as much as you can. I'm at 7.5, and a bit of camber around 2 degrees, I'm at 1.5. Toe was so all over the place, people going toe in, toe out, a bit more on the left because they're NASCAR drivers, etc... I went with 0.

On the rear the consensus is that you need some toe in for high speed stability and predictability coming out of turns. As for toe, same this as the front toe argument. People say it's not as necessary as front, and/or within 1 degree of what the front is...
Personally, I went with almost 0 camber and on the lowest end of spec for toe because when you're on the power, the car squats to hell increasing the camber and toe.
I can finally not chirp the tires in 3rd when driving hard


That said, my shitty opinion is to go conservative, because you still have to DD it, why burn tires when you don't need or want to?

My alignment is:
Front:
Caster 7.5
Camber 1.6
Toe 0

Rear:
Camber: 0-.25
Toe: .04 in each side (I think)

Wonka2581 03-02-2016 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 (Post 3427387)
I did a lot of research on this recently because I installed all SPL stuff.
The general consensus is that in the front you need caster, almost as much as you can. I'm at 7.5, and a bit of camber around 2 degrees, I'm at 1.5. Toe was so all over the place, people going toe in, toe out, a bit more on the left because they're NASCAR drivers, etc... I went with 0.

On the rear the consensus is that you need some toe in for high speed stability and predictability coming out of turns. As for toe, same this as the front toe argument. People say it's not as necessary as front, and/or within 1 degree of what the front is...
Personally, I went with almost 0 camber and on the lowest end of spec for toe because when you're on the power, the car squats to hell increasing the camber and toe.
I can finally not chirp the tires in 3rd when driving hard


That said, my shitty opinion is to go conservative, because you still have to DD it, why burn tires when you don't need or want to?

My alignment is:
Front:
Caster 7.5
Camber 1.6
Toe 0

Rear:
Camber: 0-.25
Toe: .04 in each side (I think)


Awesome! Thank you,

Rusty 03-02-2016 02:49 PM

My setting right now are;
Front; Camber -2, Caster +6 (changing that to +7), Toe Zero.
Rear; Camber -1.75, Toe a hair in. (zero toe to toe out will give you snap-over steer. Good for drifting.)

Wonka2581 03-02-2016 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3427622)
My setting right now are;
Front; Camber -2, Caster +6 (changing that to +7), Toe Zero.
Rear; Camber -1.75, Toe a hair in. (zero toe to toe out will give you snap-over steer. Good for drifting.)

Thank you, I just want something that is better then stock! My car is more of a weekend worrier and occasional track day. I just don't want to kill my tires..

Wonka2581 03-02-2016 03:59 PM

Actually don't you need toe on both tires for straight line stability?

Rusty 03-02-2016 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonka2581 (Post 3427677)
Actually don't you need toe on both tires for straight line stability?

For straight line stability. Toe both front and rear in. Factory specs then.

Wonka2581 03-02-2016 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3427709)
For straight line stability. Toe both front and rear in. Factory specs then.

Got ya, and what would help turn in/ handling? Also what's the max I can put for caster?

Rusty 03-02-2016 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonka2581 (Post 3427725)
Got ya, and what would help turn in/ handling? Also what's the max I can put for caster?

With the SPL arms. Depends on your camber too. Less negative camber, more positive caster in the adjustment. More negative camber, less positive caster. Basically you're moving the upper ball joint around for both setting. If you go -1.5 to -2 on camber. Think you should be able to get about +7.5 or a little more positive caster. This depends on the car too. Each is a little different.

Wonka2581 03-02-2016 06:48 PM

I know on the z1 arms I have a diffrent caster adjustment completely. I need to know what's the max caster I can safely put on the car?

Rusty 03-02-2016 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonka2581 (Post 3427798)
I know on the z1 arms I have a diffrent caster adjustment completely. I need to know what's the max caster I can safely put on the car?

Much as the arms have in adjustment. When you have arms with camber and caster adjustments like the SPL and Z1 arms. You have to adjust camber and caster together. You can not do one and not effect the other. If you move camber more negative, it will move the caster more negative. If you move caster more positive. The camber will move more negative.


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