You don't have to remove anything from the car.

But under or on the side of the brake fluid reservoirs there should be two bleed screws one is for the front and the other for the back.

Im sure Youtube has someone showing how to bleed them.

But it's the same as the wheel calipers.

If there's no changes you have a stuck brake piston in one of the calipers worst case scenario or try adjusting the brake pedal, The rod that goes to the master cylinder.

Im sure adjusting it will give you more pedal travel.

The switch from base to Akebonos might impact the overall pedal travel.

Im speculating here.

I have been checking on my sport 370z and the pedal is adjusted the exact same. I'm thinking about unscrewing the two screws like you said and trying to connect the lines to there and having someone push the pedal to bleed. My only concern is when I disconnect those lines, WILL it make more air go into the abs module? Or make this worse? By the way, I opened the master cylinder cap and there is some black stuff at the bottom like tiny trash particles and also there were bubbles all at the top.

All right disregard what I just mentioned about bleeding the MC :facepalm:

I went out and physically saw there are NO bleeder screws but the low fluid connector.

Sorry!

What about the bleeder screws on the bottom of it? I thought those would work??? There are two that go from the abs module to the master cylinder. I think those are the bleeder screws bro

Was looking at Ak's DiY and he mention there are two bleeders on the brake calipers.

one is outer and the inner? Did you bleed both?

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...17-ak370z.html

I did bro

ugh

All I can suggest it one last time to bleed it old school with a friend pumping and holding while you crack the valves making sure the reservoir stays full.

Also looked at the fsm and its pretty straight forward.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/2013/BR.pdf

Thanks for the help bro. I'll keep this thread updated as I figure out what's wrong.

Just have someone press on the brake pedal and hold. Then loosen one line. You will know if you have air in it. Do it again for the other line.

I will bro I'll try it all again

Last time I cked the E-brake is cable .. And drums inside.

I'm gonna try bleeding the master while its on the car. I am just worried about getting air in the abs module.

It won't happen if you do it carefully. Just do one line at a time. Front and then rear. After that re-bleed at the calipers again.

Hey guys I got an update!! I went by my friend's shop and he pulsed the abs module to get all the air out of it. Instantly the pedal felt better. I went home and bled the brakes with a power bleeder and A LOT of air came out of the lines. I drove it and it feels much better than it did, but not where i quite want it yet. I'm gonna stop by his shop again tomorrow and hopefully he can pulse the abs module one more time for me and hopefully it will fix the issue, but the pedal is engaging much much higher. He also told me to bleed the brakes manually when he gets done pulsing it again instead of with a power bleeder. He said that it is procedure.

update guys!! Got the abs module repulsed and manually bled the brakes and the car is engaging the brakes as soon as the brake lights come on!!! My 2014 (factory akebono, no brake upgrades at the moment) is more sensitive on the pedal but they both have the same stopping power so i am pretty sure i am in the clear. All the air is out of the lines and I am guessing the difference in the pedal is from either the conversion from non sport to akebono on this car or from the drilled and slotted rotors with stop tech pads.