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New Brake Bleed Order ?
so general rule of thumb is to go furthest from the master cylinder to the closest
which is: RR→RL→FR→FL OR service manual: RR→ FL → RL → and FR but looks like RL is actually the furthest line away from the master cylinder. http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...psbpp8xgqo.jpg http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...psvpts4nmw.jpg so shouldn't it really be RL first? RL→RR→FR→FL just having too much time on my hand |
Interesting... I'm curious to hear opinions, I would probably agree with you on this. I'm not experienced enough to give a definite yes or no answer.
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I have not had my brake bleeding order ever make a difference in my cars performance. Just be sure to flush ENOUGH.
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My experience has been the same as osbornsm - order is not important, you just need to make sure you do a good flush on each leg. But I haven't worked on any brakes newer than about 1996, so maybe something has changed in the last twenty years.
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I was informed a number of years ago (… and this may not apply to the 370Z) that the brake system is comprised of two separate sets of lines, with the front and rear lines configured to be diagonally independent … so if there is a failure in one set of lines, you will still have braking power (… albeit reduced) both front and back. So the idea is to bleed one set of lines completely … either RR and FL or RL and FR), beginning with the longer rear line, and then turn to the diagonally opposite set of lines, again beginning with the rear line.
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I always bleed Front and Rear in pairs. Order is really not a big deal. I normally do front and then rear. That way I do not flush all the dirty fluid out of the MC all the way through to the rear.
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Doesn't matter what order you go in. Long as you DON'T let the reservoir go dry! For sport brakes. I go RR inner, RR outer. LR inner, LR outer. RF inner, RF outer. LF inner, LF outer.
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When using 2 people. I have the person inside pump the pedal 3 times and hold down. Don't need a whole lot of pressure. Then I crack the bleeder open. I make sure that they push the pedal all the way down and hold it there. Then I close the bleeder and then repeat until the air is out of the line. Then move on to the next position.
Check your fluid often. I also put a piece of clear tubing over the bleeder so that I can see the fluid coming out and direct it to a catch bottle. On high mileage cars. I put a 2x4 under the pedal. You don't want to push the pedal all the way down. The reason is that the master cylinder bore is worn, and pushing the pedal all the way will rip the the o-rings on the piston in the bore. You will have to find your leak. Did you spill any fluid when you was adding fluid? |
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i actually found what seems to be RBF600 underneath the steering rack area which is furthur down than where i spilled. it's been constantly dripping and the underside is drenched with goldish fluid. (mind you that i've been mysteriously wondering why the brake reservoir level has been decreasing slowly..) from the smell i'm certain its the brake fluid. is the thinner line the brake line? that's where it seems to leak http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...psn2sizeyp.jpg http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...pspbz4es6s.jpg last pic is to give you a reference where the leak is: its somewhere ~around between the steering rack and chassis bracing http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...psqntosv4v.jpg |
Spray the area with a cleaner and wipe clean. Have someone pump the brakes and you looking to see if anything is leaking. If you can't see. Then keep an eye on it.
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this is the power steering line leak. I traced the line all the way back to the power steering reservoir. seal must be leaking.. |
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indeed. if you look at the diagram, all lines to the calipers are independent.
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