would look something like this.. this is a dremel 115. they have different shapes and sizes.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg

Thanks Ken. But I remember one of Zipper's post where said he ended up using a different dremel bit because the 115s wasn't tough enough to grind off the metal. Something about Nissan beefing up the steel in that area of the suspension on the later model Z's.

yah, id get a handful of those for sure.

Bits
 

I will take pics for you. Saturday at the latest.
As for the bits i used, I destroyed both of them and discarded what little was left. I used a Dremel Chain saw sharpening bit. There were two in the pack for about $11. The alternative, and the real way to go was an $19 high speed cutter. I bought both packs so I had the cutter if the CSS bits didn't work. When the CSS bits worked I just returned the HSC bit unopened. I would suggest the HSC bit. I'm not sure what the number was. Whatever you get needs to be able to hack steel, so the #115 and #117 bits are NO GO. I destroyed a 115 or 117 (I forget which one) on the first hole, and still didn't get it completed.
I'll do a search and see if I can find the HSC and post a link.


104

Yup, but don't get a 115. They will just fall apart on steel. The cutter you need will have to hack steel, but it will look almost identical to the one Kenchan posted.

104

CSS bit
 

This is what I used but you'll go through about 4 or more so I suggest something more serious. There is a bit of a learning curve involved when using them so you don't blow them up, but once you get the hang of it you can get about one hole elongated per bit before they're toast.

455 Chain Saw Sharpening Stone / Model: 455

I'm thinking the back up cutter I bought but didn't use was one of these ones.

Tungsten Carbide Cutters

It needs to be able to hack steel. You can read what they'll cut in the description of each bit. Bits for soft metals won't survive, nor cut worth a s***. Using them will just piss you off, and you'll be under there all day cursing. Ask me how I know.
Oh, and Amazon usually has the Dremel bits real cheap if you can wait a few days to get them. I got the pair of 115s (or 117s) for a fraction of what they'd have cost me at my local Home Depot.

104

Wow
 

Something like this one cost me $19 CDN at Home Depot.
Look at what Amazon wants. If I was doing it all over again I'd get a pair of something like these. It'd be like a hot knife through butter. 104

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-9902-Tu.../dp/B00004UDJK

Now I'm looking for wheels. I was going to stick with 18"s, but I think I would like 19"s, just to fill what little gap is left. Regardless, I'm extremely happy with the results. Someone at work noticed there was something different about my car, but they couldn't put their finger on it. To me, that's always a good sign. It means that, while subtle, it looks right!

Sorry for the quality of the photo, but all I have is my old iPhone.

http://www.the370z.com/members/memph...0-swifts-3.jpg

Lookin' :cool:

Very nice.

Thanks, madwi! I appreciate it. :tup:

Perfect height bro. This is how they should have built the Z from the get go. I can't tell from this angle, do you have any spacers on? I think going with larger tires and bringing the wheels out flush with your fenders will give an illusion of smaller wheel gap, no need to go up to 19s unless that's what you wanted.

That's a great point, Zbrah. Actually, no, I don't have spacers, so the wheels are sunken in a good bit. I didn't get spacers, since I knew I would be getting new wheels in the near future. That makes sense that I could stay with 18s and, with the proper offset, it would bring the wheels further out and make my car look more planted. I think I will keep looking for 18s that I like, but I am lost when it comes to offsets. I've read several threads, but I still don't seem to get it. The more I read, the more I get confused. Guess I need to just start over and really pay attention to how the numbers work.

At any rate, thanks for the compliment and the kind words. I appreciate it, bro!

Here you go.....
 

Left rear of car.......
Left TN....Toe bolts go on the inboard end of the spring bucket where I've put the piece of beige masking tape.
Middle TN.... Lockout goes on the inboard end of the camber arm marked by a piece of green masking tape. See blue jam nut midway and adjuster beyond it.
Right TN.....entire Camber arm (outboard end closest) Inboard end furthest away with green tape. 104

Thank you Zip!!

Edit: You only used two lockout bolts? I see the lockout kit usually comes with four bolts/eight square washers, but your pictures only show two bolts installed on the end of each camber arm.

I have an article that explains wheel offsets with examples on my laptop, i'll try to get that upload later for you.

Edit: Even better, I found a thread dedicated entirely for 18" wheels on 370Z. Simply pick out the set up you like and go with the exact specs :tup:
http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/51888-18s-370z.html

Thanks, Zbrah! I'll check it out tonight. Rep coming your way!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lock outs
 

Not sure, but I only bought two lockout bolts. I don't know if they are to replace all four or if there's a pair required for the front, if you do the front kit???
I was able to get only two so it saved me paying for the extra pair, but I suppose if you have them, put them on the outboard end in place of the stockers.

104

Ordering. Thanks! :tup:

Alright, I'll do that. Thanks again for the help! I'm much more confident to do this on my own now that I understand where everything should go :happydance:

How much did you end up paying for install? I just got quoted for $810 for installing swift springs, SPL camber arms, spacers, SPL eccentric lockout kit and rear spc camber bolts. Crazy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didnt do arms. I just did springs. Paid $200 for spring install

Cool cool, I'm def gonna keep looking lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk