Does this mean all the 0-100km times in reviews for the Z are incorrect and it's really more like 0-91km?

No. All those tests are performed with high-end testing equipment such as optical accelerometer. What the car actually reads on the speedometer is irrelevant.

A problem I had that has since been rectified -

Less than a week after picking the car I noticed one morning that the bonnet was not sitting flush with the bodywork at the front of the car. It was skewed to one side, higher on the passenger side and lower on the driver's side.

After a bit of fiddling I suspected that it was the bonnet stops that had perhaps moved around slightly. It was at the time of the first 'free' check and the dealer confirmed that the bonnet stops. See pic.

My usual technique for closing bonnets ever since I can remember is to lower the bonnet to within 6 inches of the body and let it drop to close. I know that it was sitting perfectly flush when I picked it up and I was the only person ever to open/close the bonnet.

I thought that maybe as the bonnet is aluminium and much lighter than the usual steel bonnet that maybe this technique was not a good thing. Ever since I have been lowering the bonnet to sit againt the bodywork then gently using each hand at either end of the bonnet (driver amd passengers side) to gently push it closed. The aluminium flexes a little (as it want to do) and I hav'ent had the problem since.

Anyone else noticed problems with closing the bonnet?

G

"No. All those tests are performed with high-end testing equipment such as optical accelerometer. What the car actually reads on the speedometer is irrelevant."
-------------------------

Exzarachy - and you'll find that that equipment that is used is horrendously expensive.
Part of the reason being that it is designed to be accurate to within probably 1/20 of 1% or less.

To make it worse, in the real world, usually these things are not a linear progression. Its more like a logarithmic or exponential scale. Twice as accurate is a *lot* more than twice as expensive, and so forth.

Well a 5-lb chunk of it hit my motorcycle helmet once while I was traveling down I-95. Always wear a helmet. :tup:

Yes Gee, I had exactly the same problem. The bonnet sometimes didn't sit flush, it was raised on one corner. It was fixed at the 10,000km service.

Hmmm...I noticed the left side of my "bonnet" is raised slightly, very small diff between right & left. But it closes fine...will have service fix it.

So was it just the bonnet mounts that needed adjusting?

Should we be dropping our bonnet to close it or push down gently?

Dropping.

Leather seat wrinkles
 

My front driver seat has a lot of wrinkles in the leather in one back corner. I asked the dealer but they are saying its normal...

Does anyone else have this?

willinsyd - maybe take a photo for us so we get a better idea?

Unfortunately with leather you can get natural wrinkles. But dealers are good at saying 'its normal'.

They used an old cow.

You need to stop farting to one side only. (j/k)

Classic :icon18: :bowrofl::bowrofl::bowrofl:

Problems are:
1. Paint (Clear coat dissolving on mine)
2. Rattle (In rear hatch area)
3. Boot (Will not open with one push of button have to manually lift)

This thread is ruined! well done.

I'd like to apologize to all the Australian members for some of the members behavior.

Tech threads should NOT be derailed with useless replies. This is why we have the offtopic/anything goes section. When someone creates a thread in any "tech" section, they are looking for useful feedback and trying to collect data. If it gets derailed or ruined by other members with discussion that's not related to the original topic, I can't describe in words how frustrating it is!

Please keep useless discussions in Premium Members Lounge or off topic Lounge.

thanks

AK

What colour is your car joe370z, and where in Australia are you based?

I also have problems 2 and 3, but I do have a high release on the clutch, plus there is a judder from it when it's under load. I will try and address all issues during the 10,000k service.

the paint problem has been an issue for a while now. many of us have some sort of paint defect out of the factory. it's just the nature of the craptacular paint nissan uses.

They're painted by robots, you'd think they'd be more consistently bad. The worst is the paint is a bloody thin layer so there isn't much to work with.

I found that all the cars i've driven basically over estimate the speed, probably a safety thing...

Wheels magazine also show actual vs shown speed in some of their reviews. at 100kph most cars are doing 92-97kph from my observations. The problem is when you factor this in to your driving =)

another vote regarding crap nissan paint quality

http://www.the370z.com/members/marky...4-img-1644.jpg

the front bumper has a yellow tinge to it, the rear and sideskirts too but less noticable.

I've been bugging nissan over the last month but they're saying "its normal" - a bit annoying since ive seen nissan micra's with better paint matching.

thats due to the parts you described being plastic...

painted plastic verses metals with the same paint code will undoubtedly have some slight tonal variations to them...less noticable in darker colors and more noticable in lighter colors...

nissan isnt the only auto maker with this unfortunate side effect, many auto manufacturers experience this same issue...

ex: my 04 ford is oxford white and it has the same yellowing issue on the front/rear bumper as well as the side moldings...

Fuel gauge.

I noticed the paint wasn't too good on my 350 and now it is slightly worse on my 370... My car pretty much has orange peel all over it.... Sad thing is, I have my front bar resprayed and it looks sooo damn good compared to the rest of the car :(

Sad but true --> I kinda miss the paint on my 97 Ford ghia :( I remember how good the paint was for a ford it was crazy... then Im moved on to the 350 and straight away started noticing blemishes....

Nothing too wrong with my paint, just thinner than other cars.

However, one LED on the fuel gauge (right full side) will not light up after a full refill. This maybe caused by the ECU’s calculation of the fuel economy from previous driving habits?

Just had the last two LEDs on my fuel gauge crap out after a refuel. No problem (with this) up until now.

So they were working fine before but not now?

Also just a coincidence, since this topic came up, we refulled my gf's civic and the last light didn't light up lol... maybe it's the Aussie fuel :rolleyes: lol

Stupid question, but are you sure you're filling it up to the brim? How many litres can you squeeze into it from fully empty? The capacity is 72L right?

Sometimes sensitive bowsers will click off early and not let you fill it.

I usually stop when I see petrol lol... I pull the nozzle out and keep squirting till it passes the valve.... I like my tanks full. Either go hard or not at all :P

Nah. I overfill until it's past the internal lid thing and still
missing the final led.

:icon18:
My dirty mind couldn't read that without giggling like a school girl. Innuendo effort 10 points. :tup:

Three issues w/ mine, which I purchased 11 months ago, and has 14,000 miles:

1) Rear hatch spring issue
2) Transmission rattle while at a stop, engine at idle. The rattle goes away when the clutch is pushed in. I've had many manual trans cars, and this rattle is significant, especially for a car like the Z.
3) Rattle coming from the right side of the car which increases with speed. This started yesterday, and doesn't seem to be the tire, but seems to be coming from the right front area of the car. I don't have much to say to further describe this.

All three issues will be addressed at the dealer (my first dealer visit since buying the car), but curious to see if anyone else has issues two or three.

Dammit! I just filled up last night and the last three lights didn't come on! You have jinxed me! :(

Then when driving along the third last came on leaving two dead ones. I think it could be the sender and not the lights at all. Hmmm

hhmm how odd i can kinda see it in your pic, when i look at my white in real life seems even to me though, cant see a tinge.........

man bad lucky everyone on the fuel guage issue......hope doesn't happen to mine while i have it

Does anyone have any issues with the fuel guage and how many kms you have left when close to empty?
I dont think its a fault but its kind of annoying that when the fuel light comes on it will say 60-70 kms left of fuel. I will do about another 5-10km and it has states you have about 30-40 kms left, 2 seconds later it starts flashing.

This is all while under normal drving conditions, no driving hard.

I am still working out how many kms on average per tank of juice i will get and ill start trusting how many kms i have done, I do reset the travel guage each time i fill up though.

Yes, exactly as described. I still think it's the fuel sender and the lights are just displaying the innacurate level.

Has anyone reported this to Nissan yet?

Nah I was going to yesterday but didn't end up getting the service lol. I'll tell them on my 10k service (when I reach it in 50 years lol)

I find that on my car "kms left to empty" seems to work as I'd expect. If I drive hard, it reduces the "kms left", If I drive gently it goes back up. I haven't run it all the way to empty, but this week I went from 70km to 50km left, and I'd done about 20km. It certainly doesn't drop from 60km to 30km to none in a few km like Yutzi's does.

If I remember correctly, you can reset the fuel economy meter (if that's what it's called). It's one of the settings on that useless orange screen that I wish showed a digital speed read-out. Anyway, maybe yours needs resetting Yutzi (I'm assuming it is used in the kms left calculation).

I did find the last light on my fuel gauge was not lighting, but the last two fills I have made sure I filled the tank right up. That fixed it. It seems there is a lot more room after the pump clicks off.