Powered Sub with Amplified Speakers
 

Hey everyone. This may be a bizarre question, and I did search here and on Google. I came up with nothing, likely because it's such a weird, specific search. So, if anyone knows of any resources, please send them my way. I'd appreciate it. Anyway, on to the question:

Right now, I've got a bazooka powered sub and some Infinity Kappas running right off my head unit. I had informal plans to some day add an amplifier to my speakers. They're pretty good off of the head unit, but I know what a difference an amp makes. (I used to work in the audio field. That being said, lay off the "bazooka subs suck" comments. I just wanted something I could hide.)

So, the last few weeks I noticed my driver side woofer is cutting in and out. It drives me nuts. I figured, "Well, if I'm gonna have to crack it open and check the connections, that's as good a time as any to add a proper amp."

The snag: I've got the power cable coming from the battery to the amp in the sub. Do I need to just run the power to a distributor cap, then split it between the two amps? The wire gauge for the amp is fairly small (I think 12 gauge), so I don't think that'd be safe for that kind of load. Should I put a heavier cable to the distributor cap, and send the same or smaller to the amps? The sub also comes with a proprietary wiring harness connector. If anyone has worked with bazookas before and knows how to use an aftermarket power connection, please share. I'd like to set this up so that it's effective and safe. I'd rather not burst into flames on the way to work...

If anyone has done this type of set up or is familiar with this situation and has input, I'd appreciate it.

if you are running 12 gauge power to your bazooka tube then you are GRAVELY underpowering the tube (i have one in my rabbit it rocks). You need to start over with at least 8 gauge wire and I would say to go for 4 gauge for better power management.

I have 4 gauge running to a distro block and then splitting it off to 2 seperate connections. if you are just running the bazooka and another small amp i would say go for a distro block like this that will accept your 4 gauge and split off to two 8 gauge connections. This way you are not under powering your amps, they are not getting hot and ur not popping fuses like a skinny blond popping E at the local Rave.

I hoe your nto saying you ran the bazooka tube powering it off your head unit. A bazooka can use 12 gauge wire without a problem because that is what it usually comes with for power. However if you are adding a amp you need to run at least 8 gauge (4 recommended) do not use a cap as you do not need them. Get a normal distribution block if needed.

Knu Konceptz makes great bang for the buck amp kits. Also I recommend you run new speaker wire to your new speakers if you have not already done so. I agree with you CBtech

Thanks for the replies. The wiring gauge was my primary confusion. I only used the 12 gauge because that's what bazooka supplied, and no I'm not powering the sub off the head unit. I'm not that much of an amateur. Haha. The sub has an amp built in that's being directly powered. I'm just looking for a 2-channel amp, 90W rms tops (as per the speaker rating).

My only issue is connecting a new, thicker power cable to the wiring harness. I don't really know how to do that.

Yeah, I'm gonna change the speaker wire. It's whatever crap the dolts at Best Buy used. They did a terrible job. I've had to take my car back there twice already for problems with the install. I'd make THEM fix it again, but I lost the effing receipt, which I need for them to honor the install warranty. I only had them do it because I got the speakers for Christmas and didn't want to install them myself in my frigid-arse garage. Lesson learned...:mad:

The second link I provided is how you would do that. Most have screws that tighten down on the exposed wire. The screw will bottom out so you should be fine plugging in your 12 gauge.

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I wouldn't run 12ga wire to the back for any amp, unless its for a remote turn on. CBTech hit it right on the head..... No matter what the wire size is on the harness. You need to consider voltage drop in a 15 foot run. Minimum of 8, but play safe and go with 4 for add-ons down the road.