Need help picking speakers
 

Hey guys! I need some help in deciding what speakers to get for the rear spots. I know, I know. I've read all the back and forth about whether or not rear speakers mess up the soundstage in the car and all that, and I've decided I like having the sound all around me.

What I need help on is deciding what speakers would be the best and what speakers fit. I know the rear spots are supposed to hold 3.5" speakers, but I've also read a few threads where people said that they put 4" speakers back there. Can they really fit? Or at least, can they fit with only MINOR modification?

As of right now, the speakers I'm looking at are

Infinity Reference X REF-3002cfx
Infinity Reference X REF-3002cfx 3-1/2" 2-way speakers at Crutchfield.com

Polk Audio DXi350
Polk Audio DXi350 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

Sound Ordnance P-35
Sound Ordnance™ P-35 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

Polk Audio DB351 3.5-Inch Coaxial Speakers
Amazon.com: Polk Audio DB351 3.5-Inch Coaxial Speakers (Pair, Black): Car Electronics


Any suggestions? Is there another brand that's better that I'm missing? I appreciate your help in advance.

Just for reference, at the moment I have Alpine SPR-60C component speakers and an Alpine R SWR-12D4 Sub with a Kicker 400W amp. I hope to switch this out soon to the Alpine PDX-V9 amp to power my components.

I had the Polk DXi350 in the rear of my sport touring they are definitely not a bolt in.

what all did you have to do to get them in? custom adapter rings?

I had to modify the trim panel b/c that where the speaker bolts to plus when I was all done the magnet was hitting the rear structure b/c there is no room behind the panel.

You could always fab up your own enclosures to sit on the parcel shelves behind the seats. They will not need much air space, and should be fairly simple to build.

I would do polks in the rear, you have to cut/trip the surrounding area where the speaker bolts to. Also make sure you have some speaker wire because you will need to run new wire to your head unit, and if you have a stock head unit you will need pins to add to the blanks of the stock harness for wiring.

Big actually makes some great enclosures for that spot, but I keep detailing stuff and my sunshade in those spots.


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Polks and Infinitys have been around and have good rep. Did you look into JL's as well? Any will do for rear fill because your ears will have a difficult time distinguishing between the speakers you've narrowed down especially with your headers and CF exhaust that you have. Whatever you decide, protect them from low freqs and get some form of high pass crossover with a decent slope.

I thought about the jl's, but they didn't have anything that seemed to stand out. I was hoping for alpines cause that's what I've always used and had nothing but great results with them, and that's what my whole car will be.

Big, what speaker wire do you recommend? That's something I haven taken the time to research.


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Hertz

Lol not an option, I'm not rich. Thanks for the suggestion though, maybe in a few years I'll have a hertz or focal build.


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Db351

I've had great success with JL's in my competition days in the 90s. They made mostly subs around that time and came up with comps later on. Subs made in the US, speakers made in Germany. The newer Evolutions sound good esp for rear fill but not sure where they are made nowadays. Lastly, if you can find a good used Morel go for it. These are good SQ speakers as well.

I used the DXI350's.. ended up taking them out tho.. The fill wasn't worth the disturbance to the soundstage. I assumed going into my build that Big's view on soundstage and not using rear speakers was crazy, but I have to admit that he's 100% right. I found zero benefit to having them :( Anyway, I've still got my DXI400's and DXI350's for the time being. They're boxed up and ready to ship back to Crutchfield.

I didn't see anything about a specific budget? The best option is largely dependent on how much you want to spend (hence the Hertz suggestion from that other guy).

The Polks are be very popular- good performance for the cost.

Well known by anyone that is serious about the presence of their soundstage. Rear fill speakers went out of vogue many years ago with the audiophile crowd. Late 80's and early 90's at SQ competitions, IASCA actually used to score you on rear fill, but did away with that.
It's really common sense. You are trying to reproduce the music to mimic a concert, or live recording where you are sitting in front of center stage. How many concerts have you been to that had speakers behind the listener?? There are those that like to have that rear fill, however, and to each their own, I say. I still have customers that MUST have speakers in the rear, and I gladly oblige them, and do not try to persuade them otherwise.
I kind of relate it to this funny story.....My Fiancee ate canned corn all her life, believe it or not, Never ate fresh corn. The first time I made corn on the cob for her, she hated it. It just didn't taste "right" to her. To this day, she still prefers the canned corn She grew up eating it that way, so to her corn is supposed to taste like that. We now have to make 2 different types of corn with dinner!!!!

As for a budget I would like to spend no more than $100, hence why I listed mostly $30-$50 speakers. I'm not really going to be able to hear them really well, so there's no sense in going for some SQ speakers.

Like i said, I've heard all the discussion. Ack and forth on the soundstage, and it makes sense, but I like to be enveloped by the music. Even at a concert or something, unless you have a room with impossibly perfect acoustics you're still getting some reverb and bounce-around to the sides and behind you. I should know, I'm a musician lol.

That's an awesome canned corn story too Thanks for all the suggestions guys.


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If your on a budget the polk db's is a favorite with z owners. Alpine type R is another great set for budget as well as infinity if you want them bright.

I went with Bostons in the Z (can't remember the model). They really sound good with the Pioneer head unit and I didn't even think about sticking speakers in the rear panels.

I just added the DXi 350s (on sale at crutchfield) to the rear of my 370Z. I in no way qualify as an audiophile, but I do like to listen to music in the car (the only place where I can be left alone). I am IMMENSELY pleased with the addition of the rear Polks and would do it again in a minute. I have components in the front and 100w RMS going to each of the four channels in the event it matters. I also have a 12" sub, which is overkill but I had one on hand.

H2O, are you saying you have 100w going to the 3.5" rears as well? I thought they were rated for maybe 10-30w rms.


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Sorry, that is what the amp can do. It is dialed back on the 3.5s.

Oh ok lol, I was gonna be impressed that they could handle that amount


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They can barely handle 30 watts, make sure you install a bass blocker if you decide on rear speakers otherwise they will blow. Polk includes them.

True that, the general consensus seems to be 600khz is a good level to start blocking.


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IMHO thats a little too high to cut. you're gonna lose alot of lower midrange, and they will probably sound "tinny". The freq. response of your speakers should be your starting point for considering where to cut, and pretty much any full range speaker will play well below 600hz You will probably be looking at a response of around 125hz with a 3 1/2"..... Your midrange frequencies start at 250hz, which is where I would recommend cutting them.:twocents:
By the way, Woofersect has a set of Hertz 3 1/2"s for $99 FYI

The Polks come with 200hz base blockers and most reviews I have read have said the worked well.

In my 4Runner, I have 3.5" Kappas and went with a higher frequency blocker. In that vehicle, I have coaxials in the door, not components, and the 3.5s are in the dash. Sounds great to my pedestrian ear.

And that, Sir, is the most important thing.

Need help picking speakers
 

Sound deadening made a huge difference. I know some purists would say that the sound is part of the experience, but the popcorn popper sound of the slightest dirt molecule coming off the tires into the wheel well was a little much. If I want to hear the exhaust its windows down and my ears are close enough to the pipes that I get every decibel I need.

I did omit addressing the hatch. Big oversight considering the subwoofer. It is the only place I get a funk induced rattle.

Hahaha I have the hatch done up to the seats, as well as my door panels done. I'm right there with you, it made it sound 10X better.


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