I think yours is different since mine is an '09. I only have sub + & - wires between the amp and sub. Not from the HU to the amp. The processing/crossover takes place at the Bose amp.

?? This info I am getting is out of the 09 Service manual? Ah nvm I was correct the first time B41 (the image I posted) is the one that runs between the HU and the amp. There is no Woofer signal as you can see. The plug coming out of the Amp has the Sub + and -.

Just FYI:

From the Bose HU you have 4 channels (Low Level) going to Bose AMP
Bose Amp goes to 6 Speaker Outs (2 Doors, 2 tweets, 2 rear) and another low level sub channel to the sub amp. Sub Amp goes to 2 Speaker Outputs to Subs.

For mids/High full range signal:
Connecting before the Bose will give you massive engine noise. I've tried it several different ways. From Bose HU to Bose AMP you have - / + / - wires. The 2nd Negative cancels out noise when its processed through the AMP. Once you disconnect it introduces some nasty noise. The solution i found was connection from Bose AMP Speaker Outputs and summing and flatten, and re-adjust. No Engine noise and sounds very clear.

If you want a sub only:
You can connect from blue and violet wire that comes from the bose amp to Sub Amp but you'll notice that extra (-) again. You can't hear the engine noise through the sub so its not really a big deal but I also found the signal strength is much better connecting from Sub Amp Speaker Output as well instead of Low Level frequency.
----

Another option I've been thinking of is trying to to Keep the Bose Amp connected while splitting off the signal rather than completely disconnecting it. It will continue to cancel out the engine noise with the -/+/- set up it has but i don't know if the new amp would just introduce noise anyways. I haven't tried it yet because Sound Processor only accepts High Speaker Level inputs.

I'm going to be installing a second amp for new mids & tweets on Sunday. Now ya got me thinking. I might try what you suggested and T-tap the wires and see what happens. What LOC are you using? My LC2i doesn't sum the signals. If I just use the (front) speaker outputs from the Bose amp, wouldn't I lose the high & low frequencies since they have already been processed?

I was planning on disconnecting the sub output wires currently connected to the LOC and cutting and connecting the speaker inputs of the Bose amp to the LOC. This way I was hoping to have a full flat low level signal to connect to my LOC for my sub and mids/tweets amps. Maybe I'll try leaving the extra (-) connected. So many confusing combinations.....:shakes head:

Cleanest way is to grab the low full signal coming from the head unit and be done with it.

Yep......going to be doing this first. I'll see what happens. Haven't heard about the noise issue before. I'll post feedback when I finish the install... :tiphat:

My processor is a AudioControl DQL-8

It's an 8 channel line output converter and EQ. The Inputs on the DQL-8 must be High Level which means they come after Bose Amp from the speaker level outputs and sums all the signals together including the high speaker level outputs from the Bose Sub amp. It's probably still not as full of a range as it could be if it was connected directly to the Headunit but it gets the job done, and its crips, clear, and loud and plenty of bass.


What ever you do don't try to connect a LOC from the Low Level signal. The LOC works best when you input from Speaker Level and convert to RCA.
If you take a Low Level signal with a LOC that accepts High Level the volume is going to be really really low and you won't be happy especially with the engine noise that will be introduced.

In order to do as I mentioned with Tapping into the signal before the Bose amp you'll be taking from a Low Voltage signal, I believe its 1.5V. By tapping into the wire and leaving it connected for the shield part to continue doing its think and cancelling out the engine noise you'll need to making your own RCA cable. So from that you could try connecting directly to your amp and see if accepts it. If it works and no noise introduced I would consider buying something like this to boost the voltage if your on a budget: 3SIXTY Analog Processors - RF-BLD - Rockford Fosgate®

If you have cash to spend you could go with the new 3Sixty.3. It looks pretty nice and accepts balanced inputs.
3SIXTY Digital Processors - 3SIXTY.3 - Rockford Fosgate®

Like I said before, I don't know much about the balanced outputs, but from what I've read up on them, our Bose system works very much like an XLR balanced connection. So I really don't know how amps like +1.5V and -1.5V and if it will even work. So do it at your own risk.

To give you an idea what a balance vs. unbalanced is here's a diagram:
Which means this:
+1.5V Signal
-1.5V Signal
- Shield Cable

http://www.pacificstereo.com/skin/fr...nal-output.jpg

There are two alternating signals -1.5v & +1.5v and the shield. The advantage of this connection is the noise (interference) is canceled out. The downside is once you disconnect the shield cable it introduces some horrible engine noise.


Here's a diagram I made that might help you if you choose to go this route.
http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1360387535

If you don't feel like being a guinea pig you an go the safe route and do what i did. Just get a summing device. You can go with something as inexpensive as RE-Q5 which is around $150.00 or spend some bucks and get a $500-$700 summing and EQ device. I'd recommend getting something with an EQ so you can try to correct some the bastardization the Bose amp does to the signal.

So If I wanted to tap in right at the connector at the bose sup I could use the RE-Q5 and still get good sound?

Thanks

Mitch

I was checking into options, and it looked like the AC LC6i may do the trick. I don't need any more channels and this has internal suming (which my LC2i doesn't). On the install manual (Figure 5) show exactly how our Bose system would need to be connected (when replacing fronts & sub):

Line Output Converter - LC6i

**Edit: One step better I think will be the LC7i. This is the same as the LC6i, but adds the AccuBass feature found in my LC2i:

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/1761...-AccuBASS.html

The wires that run to the bose sub amp (sky blue/purple wires) are also low level voltage, its the equivalent of pass thru RCA. Placing a LOC between this lowers the sound quite bit. It will work but taking from the sub amp speaker level (green/red) with any LOC will provide a louder signal.

Hi do you remember what colour the wires were you used for the loc from the harness going into the Bose sub? Was it one pair or 2 pairs of wires. Left and right.

What settings did you use on the Lc2i. Accu bass cranked up or minimum? Bass gain 12 o'clock or lower? Did you use a car-1 remote knob. I keep getting a humming sound when the HU is off if I crank up the remote knob.

I don't recall. I didn't have it long before upgrading to the LC7i when I added a second amp. Amp and converter settings are going to be different with each set-up and music taste and depending on many factors. I would highly suggest going to a local audio shop that you trust to have them dial it all in for you.

Hi,

I really need help on this, I can see from your post, the factory setup its almost identical to mine, but without a centre channel. Please help..

I have a 2009 Nissan GTR with Bose factory audio system, the head unit have only 4 channels going into the Bose amp (front right, front left, rear right and rear left), and the Bose amp synthesis the 4 channels to (3 way front right, 3 way front left, rear right, rear left, centre channel and two subs).

Now if I want to change all my speakers and amp to any different brand, can I use the Alpine PXA-H800 or the 360.3 or any other makes to input the 4 channels thats coming from the head unit and get the 6 channels? like the factory setup. Or is it better to keep the Bose factory amp and use the speaker level outputs on the amp to connect them to the processor?

Please keep in mind that I am going to use the front's 3 way component speakers with the passive crossover that comes with it, so each 3 way will be on one channel on the new amp, and no plans at all to change or add a new head unit. I want to keep all factory speakers locations working, I do not want to cancel any of them and will be adding to more speakers which are below.


Below are the parts I am planning to install:
2x HERTZ ENERGY ES200.5 Subs (stock location)
1x HERTZ HI-ENERGY HL 70 Center (stock location)
1x HERTZ DCX87.3 Rear deck (stock location)
1x HERTZ HCX 690 Rear side walls (fabricated location)
1x HERTZ HSK 163 (3 WAY) Doors (front stock location)

I will be using a sound processor, 2x 4 channels amps for all speakers and 1 mono to power the subs

Is there a way to connect the HSK 3 way passive xover box to one channel on the aftermarket amp instead of 2 channels to each door? so I can reserve a channels for my other speakers, as I am going to add more speakers than the OEM setup.

Please let me know what is your suggestions.


Please let me know if I can make the factory 4 channel to do all my new speakers. And what other parts do I need (if I am missing something) to make this setup work?

Or do I have to keep the factory Bose amp and use its high level speaker outputs to the DSP to the new amps.

PS: I attached a photo of my current in and out amp harness that shows the 4 channels in and all the synthesised out channels.



Best regards


Fahad

Looking for a small remote gain knob to put in between the heated seats switches. There's an empty slot. I ordered a act remote 1 and it causing interference.