No problem man Welcome to the site! Also PM sent to you.

Tomorrow I think I am going to do another write up. Just trying to think on what though "if you have an idea just pm me or post it". Keep an eye out for it tomorrow!

< keeping an eye out

Okay I am bored starting them now.

Rear Speakers
In top end cars there are no rear speakers because SQ "sound quality" is setup for optimal performance. In small cars such as the z it is even more unnecessary, you only have 2 people in the car and no rear seats. Rear speakers that close to the fronts will collide and cause the audio to sound multiplied. If you listen to it for a few days you will get use to it and it will definitely sound better than 4 channels. Think of it this way an artist records there music in 2 channel format so the optimum way to listen to it is threw 2 channels. It may sound a bit different at first but as I mentioned if you give it a few days it should grow on you. Either way save your money and invest it in better front speakers.

Bose systems
So some of you may of knew this was coming. Yes the bose system is by no mean worth the money you have to pay to get it. I am not trying to get personal just trying to be informative. The system is not even as good as the base sound system. Why I say this is the fallowing. The bose system consists of a amp and a processor. When you start turning up music the processor looks at the signal coming form the head unit. It reads it and detects what can cause distortion on the speakers. It than cuts those frequency's so no distortion will happen. So as you turn up your volume your highs and your mids "sub" start to fade out to the point where you can no longer rely hear them.

Another poor thing about the bose system is the PITA of upgrading it. If you want to upgrade the system in any means you have to start from scratch. If you just upgrade the speakers "can not", the processor will still do the same thing to the signal. So you have to remove the factory amp which in tern you have to replace the head unit. By the time you are done upgrading it you could of saved a bundle and just bought the base model to begin with, because you have replaced everything in the car. "My apology's to anyone that I may of upset that owns a bose system"

JL Myth
So a lot of you may have heard or been told by people or the internet that JL is basically the best you can buy. This is no way true. There are so many better companies out there for around the same or less price than JL. A few to start with are focal, CDT, Image Dynamics, Rainbow, and Dynaaudio. Do not get me wrong JL is good stuff just there is a lot better for the price you spend for JL. If you are looking for a site that carries the brands and others that I have mentioned please look no farther than Woofersetc.com the online car audio super store, the largest selection at the lowest prices!

Base Model Speaker Size
In the base model of the Z the fronts are able to fit 5 1/4 or 6.5 inch speakers. As for the tweeters they are 1 inch tweeters. By using the z enclosure spacer rings in conjunction with the plastic that is already in the door you can fit just about any speaker in the door, as I have shown in my California Z build.

Bose Model Speaker Size
Fronts are 6X9's but with the right spacer rings and fitting you can put either a good set of 6x9's or the better choice would be a set of component 6.5's. Rears I believe are 3 1/2. As for the sub it is 2 small 4 or 5 inch woofers.

Capacitors
Before I get into this I just want to say for most of the systems I have seen, and for what the stock alternator is capable of putting out. NO ONE will even need to worry about running one of these. That being said they DO reduce or omit light dimming, but they are not a fix more like a band aid. What a capacitor dose is stores a charge of power that can be depleted very quickly, this allows some of the strain to be taken off the factory charging system. But the cap still have to be recharged over and over again. This in turn may cause damage to your charging system over time. Do not feel bad if you have run one before as even I have at one time. So if your lights do dim a lot it might be time to look for a new alternator and or a second battery that would be mounted in the trunk. The only time you will have to worry about this happening is if you are running over 1000 rms all the time.

Stock Wiring
So some of you might be worried about running new speakers on your factory wiring. Well I am here to tell you as long as you stay below 50 watts going threw the wire you will be fine. If you are planning on running something like 120 watts to the speakers than you will need to upgrade the factory wire in the doors to aftermarket. The reason you do this is for safety. If you try to push to much current threw to small of a wire you can cause damage to your equipment or even start a fire in some cases. A good wire to run is 16 or 14 gauge.

Satellite Radio
So you have your beautiful brand new z and you want to start taking some road trips or some trips threw the mountains. Well I have taken many road trips and ever sense I purchased my satellite radio I have never been able to go without it. Yes you may have your ipod but sometimes that can get old. If you are taking any kind of trip or a big traveler I would recommend looking into getting satellite radio, the quality is great the selection is great and you never have to worry about surfing for channels. Xm and Sirius have merged so it rely dose not matter which one you choose.

Pioneer Ground Noise
So in some cases even z's can get engine noise after a new system install. If you have a pioneer head unit here is the fix. Pioneers have a ground problem with there rca's that causes this. Here is the fix. Take a piece of wire any size and wrap it around your rca ends. Than ground that wire to the chase of the radio. This should fix it and you should be good to go.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...PioneerFix.jpg

More will come tomorrow.

This thread is great and very informative! Thanks bigaudiofanat. By any chance, would you recommend the Z for a complete Noob to install a complete an audio system? The only experience I have is installing my head units with metra cables...

I think with a little guidance and a lot of patience I believe that you can do it. I think that you need to read a few DIY threads first. If you need any help just ask and I can help you out.

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ket-radio.html

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...aker-size.html

Also maybe take a look at my build thread and ak's as well to give you some more ideas of what I did.

http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/8...a-install.html

http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/5...am-ak370z.html

Bump new info on previous page.

A few rules to fallow when working with car audio.

1. Always start off by disconnecting the negative battery terminal.

2. Never cut the wiring harness behind the dash unless you are absolutely sure that what you are doing is right. Even in that case verify it with someone on the forum.

3. If something goes wrong or dose not work after installing everything. Check Check Check your connections makes sure they are okay and that no pint in the harnesses are bent.

4. Check your fuses. This may seem like something simple but many people over look this. If you have been messing with wires check them. It could hold the answer.

5. Take your time and take plenty of pics :tup:

Big,
Chances are most of the people using this thread are novices, I would strongly discourage people to use their 'ear' to set the gains on any amp. Most novices won't/don't understand the concept of clipping, nor what it sounds like on a sub, vs a set of components. I would like to see you write up the proper way to set gains using a volt meter, and test tones to avoid potentially over driving a speaker. I think this would go a long way in helping the community.

I have truly enjoyed every post on this thread. I do have a question...
Will a 6 3/4" component speaker like a boston acoustic pro fit on the front door panels?
I know you said a 6.5 would..
thanks
john

division, I do not think that many people know or have a volt meter nor will that help you rely set gains. You would need a oscilloscope for that which I do not think people want to spend 300 dollars on that and learn how to use it. Yes it is for new people and the best I can do is tell them to set it by ear. Some might be better than others but I am not going to recommend learning about 2 or 3 tools that will cost an extra 500 dollars to set it. I believe that people are capable of understanding what distortion is "or clipping" and how to turn a knob down so that there is none.

First of thank you for your words:tup: Yes they will have no problem fitting the only thing is you will have to get a spacer ring that has a hole small enough for them.

I am going to have to agree with big on this one. I have been in the car audio business for a little over 10 years and new people in car audio will not know how to use the fundamental tools needed for tuning a system. That is why MOST people giving advice to new people will tell them to listen for distortion or in our term clipping. Keep up the great work Matt. I see you are doing okay without me HAHA.

A cheap digital multimeter (DMM) will run ~20 bucks and should be in any installers/DIY-ers toolbox already. You do NOT need an oscilloscope.

Here's a pretty easy tutorial anyone can follow on how to use a DMM to set their gains. The source is pretty reputable.

Clipping can be very difficult to hear, especially at lower frequencies. I'm a pretty big fan of math, and with some basic calculations, a volt meter, and a a 50hz test tone, you can properly, and more importantly accurately set your gains. Familiarize yourself with Ohms Law.

Why use a DMM to set your gains?
Accuracy, repeatability, and unlike your hearing, math doesn't change after years of excessive volume.

Here are some additional links to refer to when properly tuning a system:

Wattage - this puts ohms law in english.

Ohm's Law
Ohm's Law Calculators (is the most useful calculator)

That is a good link and all, but I know that people can hear clipping, even at lower volumes. I also have explained ohms law as well in one of my posts. Yes it can be done with a volt meter, but I think that not everyone doing an install is a DIY'er as well as they are able top hear what they are looking for. If you rely want to get technical about it all yes you do need an oscilloscope if you are rely worried about clipping. At that level it is not important but you are trying to say that using a volt meter and finding clipping that way is. Different installers recommend different ways. We can argue on about this until the world comes to an end. I choose to show them that method for setting gains. You have showed them your way. They both work.

I dont think reccomending an amateur set gains by ear is a great idea, Clipping isnt always an audible occurance, the DMM and test tone method is the most common used by installers. You could be sending a clipped signal and not know it if the speakers rated rms is lower than actual power handling. A clipped signal will introduce heat, the number one kilelr of speakers.

I have to agree with you, on the fact that heat kills speakers. What I will argue is that the volt meter method is good, but I do not see that it can be better than setting by ear. If you set by ear, and turn it up to the point of clipping than back a quarter turn you are pretty safe from any clipping. I have been doing it sense my first installs years ago and those same systems are still going "the ones that are still in tact." So big, and speed I am going to have to agree with you BOTH. You can choose which way you want to set the gains. Either way works fine.

I so agree with this. People see that they are on tv and all and think they are the best. There not wait to shine the truth on them. I am not saying there not good I am just saying there is better for the money. :iagree: Great website as well

Anyone else want to chime in on this?

I'll take your word for it, as I have no compared the sound-systems in both the Base and the Touring and you're the resident audio guru. I just want to know if this opinion is shared among others as well.

So, again, comparing stock to stock purely on a sound basis without taking the other drawbacks to the Bose audio that you mentioned...the Base out-performs the Touring?

If you search around the threads look for "bose" in the titles. They mention it as well.

Thanks. I couldn't figure that out on my own.

There's only one thread comparing the Base and Touring sound-system, and it's filled with a whole lotta' nothing.

I don't care about modifying...spending a dime on aftermarket-audio is something I've never or even think I'll ever do, so the modability, processors, wiring, etc. mean nothing to me, so that aspect of the Base's advantage over the Touring is moot. The only thing I care about is the outright sound, and this is the only time I've heard someone say the Base has the Touring beat.

My apologies all I was doing was helping you find more info. I did not knwo if you knew about the other threads and all.

Amp Question
 

I plan on speakers in the stock locations (i.e. doors and dash) plus a sub in rear hatch. For an amp; is it best to do a 5 channel amp (1-channel for each speaker) or? What are the tuning parameters to optimize the sound for the 370Z interior?

Your going to have to play around with the tuning and find out. Every setup is different.

Hey Big, what's your take on midbass speakers? In a typical 6-speaker setup, with the subs crossed over at 60-80, and the tweets picking up at around 3k, it seems like the mids are being asked to cover a very large and crucial area of the tonal spectrum by themselves. Would it be worth a pair of midbass 6.5s to cover the 80-600 (or so)? And also, what's your opinion of the Infinity Perfect series? Thanx in advance.

If you are referring to component speakers they are made to take those freq. You should always have a solid low mid and highs. So in short yes I would recommended them if you are replacing speakers you should always replace the tweeters and the woofers at the same time. This way you are going to have a set that will work with each other. My personal choices Image Dynamics and Polk SR series. Now if you are referring to 3 ways with a tweeter mid and another woofer than the sub well they are a lot more tricky and require a lot of time patience and a good set of ears and head unit to tune them. As for infinity I am not a fan, honestly from what I have heard there is just not a lot of clarity for what you pay for. Also 6 speakers I think you mean 5 unless you are going to have 2 subs. I do not recommend them for the average user nor to myself in most cases as they take also a lot of time to install and modding the door "referring to 3 ways components. I hope this answered your question.

Yeah, I was referring to a component set and a pair of subs. With respect to the 370, I figured the rear speaker spots would be good locations for midbass, as imaging shouldn't be a factor with lower frequencies, and to take some of the load (no pun intended) off of the mids. I'd never consider 2, 3 or eleventeen way speakers in the Z....it deserves better than that. I also understand your point about the difficulty of fine tuning a system like that with novice ears. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough before. Thanks again. :)

No problem, I still would not use the rear speakers even for mid bass, a good amp and a solid set of components are going to give you that, and of cores the sub for the low stuff. Rear speaker weather it is rear fill or mids still are a wast In my honest opinion.

Best 5 car stereos.................as of 11/28/09


Best 5 car car stereos - car audio systems - CNET Reviews

Big - long time no talk. Good to see you are still giving great advice. Quick question. In a component setup - the current dash speaker area in the 370Z should be able to handle the tweeters correct?

yes the dash location will accommodate most tweeters at least up to 1"

It's typically recommended that the tweeter should be installed 0-18" from the woofer though. So ideally you can mount it next to or on top of the woofer more like a coaxial set up. This will give you the most even right-to-left sound stage and keep your complete range coming from same location.

Yes you can put the tweeter in the dash location. The easiest way that I have done it is cut the old tweeter out of its metal housing and put the new one in its places. You can fit bigger tweeters than 1 inch in the location but you will jsut need to make a new bracket. Do not worry though most component setups have a 1 inch tweeter. Or you can make a metal plated and cut out the opening for the new tweeter as well as the mounting holes. Just make sure to run new wire to the new tweeters.

Thanks Big and Vipor - mucho appreciated.

Not a problem

If you are still taking requests for write ups I would like to see one for high end sound quality component set manufacturers.

Will do thank you for the suggestion.

If you think you can write a better "Audio 101" thread, MAKE ONE and then come here to bash the existing one. If you're NOT going to take the time to make a new one or edit the current one, then no need to clutter this thread with your negative posts. Unless someone else want to write a new one, this is all we have. Don't like it, don't click on it.

^^ AK….why is it when someone corrects an obvious misstatement you delete the post! Forums by definition…………” A meeting or medium where ideas and views on a particular issue can be exchanged”!