door speakers
 

I have a pair of Polk MM 5 1/4" door speakers that I will be installing soon.

Will these be direct fit or is a new bracket or spacer needed?
Second, will this have any impact on my stock dash tweeters, ie. stop working? I dont know why it would be I have read that on here somewhere.

Thanks for your reponses and help and let me know if further info is needed.

You are going to need a bracket because the stock ones are 6.5

You should not run polk MM's off a stock head unit as they are actually 3 ohms instead of the standard 4 ohms. If you are going to run them off a aftermarket head unit this is ok.

If you have the component set install the new tweeters in the factory ones place. If you have a pair of coaxial than you should disconnect the factory tweeter otherwise it will sound horrible. But component systems are recommended.

Also make sure to run new speaker wire if you have a set of components.

Thanks for the repy.

The momo's I have are coaxial.
Any recommendations on where to buy the appropriate bracket?

Crutchfield, amazon, or your local best buy.
I would recommend selling those speakers and getting the component set, over all better sound and better imaging with the tweeter being up in the dash.

I agree!!
 

I have just installed the full 6.5" Polk set-up with factory equalizer in my base +sport package.. Can't imagine going down on speaker size knowing that the door speakers really are the main sound in our cabins. Had ordered mine up from Crutchfields (as good a price as you're going to get on Amazon ) and they also offered the install kit free of charge. I went ahead and rewired because it's so easy. Just follow the links and have a good mental state of mind.
Just trying to figure out which head unit to use...
Pat

What did you do with your tweeters?

You do not need to buy a spacer for the doors. I basically gutted the stock speakers and mounted the new ones right in where the old ones were. A little dremmel work goes a long way. No need to spend extra money on something you don't need.

Yes you do when the speakers he wants installed are 5 1/4 inch speakers and the stock opening is 6.5.

Thanks for input everyone!

Update..I ordered the brackets needed for the install of the Polk MM 5 1/4 door speakers. I already have a Pioneer AVIC 930 installed.

I will leave the oem tweeters in place and see how everything sounds.
If needed I will either disconnect them or purchase new tweeters.

Just looking for better sound quality then oem speakers offer, nothing crazy.

PS, I was under the impression oem speakers were 5 1/4, otherwise I would have bought 6.5 size.
Depending on how everything meets my expectations, I may change them out for 6.5, we'll see.

You should NOT keep the factory tweeters wired up during the usage of new speakers as you could have a ohms imbalance and fry your internal amp of your head unit.

You should either disconnect them or order a component set of speakers.

Adding new tweeters will also not be a good idea as you need a crossover to block them from getting damaging bass frequencies that a tweeter can not reproduce.

Thanks will disconnect tweaters. I'll update after the install. Hopefully install tues or wed next week.

I just put a component set by Focal in my car running on a 2 channel small amp and a Kicker Hideaway in the back. Man 1st of all the clarity out of those speakers is AMAZING and they weren't too pricey either... I think like $140... Then that Kicker in the back... WOW!!! I couldn't be happier. I should probably see what size my door speakers were though because I was able to make them work. I took a few pics too That I can load up if interested.

Ohms imbalance
 

Thanks for making the comment about not wanting to have an imbalance with Ohms. However, believe it or not, but the factory does!! When I pulled the door speakers out and then the tweeters, one is a 4ohm and the other a 2......What gives????? Don't have a degree in all things electrical..
Pat

Could be that they go to a factory crossover to balance out the load for the factory head unit. Unless your talking about bose which I do not want to go there :rofl2:

Bigaudiofanat,
Non Bose system. Don't want to turn this into a long dialogue, but does the factory have a hidden crossover between the stock door and upper tweeter sections? Have bypassed all of these due to new wiring, but if you were just splicing into the stock wiring, couldn't this create a nightmare?
Just received my JL audio amp and my new CD receiver is supposed to be here this coming Tues. Hope to have he entire system up and running by Thurs.
Appreciate the comments and suggestions you always offer...
Pat

:iagree:

not to hijack thread big. but when i had my components installed they put the
crossovers inside the doors. what do they set them to. or is there a setting?

I have not confirmed that there is HOWEVER it is never a bad thing to run new wires especially sense the tweeter wire and the door wire are connected to the same wire comping from the head unit.

Update: Installed the polk momo 5.25in door speakers today and was not satisfied at all.

I will be changing to 6.5in component set in the near future. I will also dynomat the doors at the same time. Maybe the trunk as well to reduce road noise.

There was not much of a difference from stock which I found to be suprising.

Any recommendations?

Remember the speakers are getting juice from Pioneer Avic 930 headunit.
Is an external amp going to make a difference for the component speakers or is my head unit supplying sufficient power.

Maybe another option..is it possible to put 6.5 in subwooders in the door? enough mounting depth?

Sorry to tell you but the difference between components and coaxial speakers is night and day. Make sure to run new speaker wires!!!

Subs in the doors is a LOT of work, however if you are looking for more bass you need to do 3 things.

!. Sound deadening this will help keep vibration down.

2. Look at bigger and better 6.5 component sets. Going with something like focal polyglass or image dynamics or even JL will give you a lot more mid bass.

3. Time to AMP!!!! The head units only produce around 22 watts RMS of power, if your wanting more bass from any speaker look into an external amp.

Trust my advice :icon14: as you see from my recommendation with the skiping the coaxials and going component set.

Thanks and I never doubted your input, however I already had the compnent set laying around and it took less then an hour to safisfy my curiosity.

I am considering these: Focal Polyglass 165 V30 6.5" 2-Way Component Speaker System.


Any amp reccomendation for these?

Good choice! Something with at least 100 watts of power to give them, as they love power. Alpine, audison, and focal come to mind for amps.

I have not yet ran the focal amps personally however I have heard them powering a set of focals KRX2's and there pretty smooth.

Update:
Ordered and is on the way....

-Alpine PDX2.150 Amplifier
-Dynamat Exteme Bulk Pack

Still looking around for best price on the Focal component speakers.


I hope I"m satisfied with the end result. I like bass and hope the Focals deliver. I cannot go subwoofers as I need the trunk space.

You should be happy with the bass reproduction of them. A convertible Z I worked on, they shook the mirrors.

Anyone have any experience with the JL Audio Zr650-csi components?

Update:

-Focal 165 V30 Components System ordered and on the way!

My setup is as follows:

Pinoneer Avic 930bt DVD/Nav Head Unit -installed
Focal 165 V30 6.5" Component Speakers -in the mail
Alpine PDX2.150 2 Channel Amplifier - in the mail
Dynamat Xtreme Bulk Pack - in the mail

Any tips/concerns/reccomendations for the install or the parts being used?

Update:
Speakers and amp coming tomorrow.
Still waiting on dynamat.

Plan for the install sometime in beginning of April.

Update:
components, amp and dynamat are here.

Just ordered streetwires zn5 amp kit and zn9 rca's.

Im very excited for the outcome!

You will have a much better sound now, Make sure you check the phase.

Update:

Component speakers/amplifier/dynamat installed.
I was planning to install the bulk dynamat pack in the doors and trunk, however I only had 3 sheets left after doing the doors.

I will need to get another bulk pack to complete the trunk.

On sound deadening alone with only dynamat on the doors I can notice a difference driving down the road. Sound is reduced a good amount and I can only imagine how it will sound once I do the trunk.

The focal components sound awesome. I am satisfied with the mid bass these speakers produce. Just enough bass to satisfy without going subwoofers. I read reviews that the tweeters are very pronounced but I dont have that here. Not sure if it can be adjusted by the crossover.

I was able to install the alpine 2 channel amp under the passenger seat with no problem.

For anyone using dynamat, how much will I need to do the entire trunk/wheel well area. I have 3 sheets left from my bulk pack. Do I need another bulk pack?

I bought 36 sq ft and after I completed the hatch, I have 3 pieces left to do my doors. Did you take any pics of the dynamat in your doors and speaker install?

No I didnt think to take any pictures. I did the install this morning. Took about 4 hours.
Just wish I had more dynamat right now so I could have finished everything up in one day.

It will take some time to do the hatch right. But worth the efforts IMO

I think the bulk kit and two more sheets. I bought the trunk kit plus one sheet and I need one more sheet to finish off the trunk and wheel arches and I'm guessing I'll have a bit left over for the tranny hump. Thsts also bare metal under the shifter and console. I'm going to finish mine off tomorrow. Good thing is I can have the trunk all ripped out in 10 minutes now. It's quite easy to take apart. Plus take the side panels off to get to front of wheel arches. That takes a bit more time though, still easy though.

Been gone for a year. So what have you all found out for best cross over area to hide them at. I dont think the doors are good as these cross overs are on the big size. I have Alpine SPX 17 Pros 6 1/2 for the door area.

Update.

As last update stated, I still need to dynamat the trunk/hatch area to complete my project. I have 3 sheets of dynamat extreme left from the bulk pack after doing the doors.

Rather then ordering more dynamat, I decided to go ahead and use what I had for the time being. This morning I tore down the trunk interior and installed my last 3 bulk dynamat peices. I was able to cover the floor board, wheel archers as best as I could and a bit on the tail light side. Took 2 hours.

For anyone looking to cover the entire hatch space, you would probably require 5-6 bulk peices.

After driving around town and interstate I can notice a further improvement of noise reduction from just dynamat on doors only. You can hear more engine noise(which I like) now as most of the hatch noise is gone. Tire noise was cut down significantly.

In total I have used an entire bulk pack, 3 pieces for each door and 3 pieces in the hatch area.

Perhaps full coverage would yield better sound reduction, however I feel I have got to a level that is comfortable and I am happy with the end result.

1 bulk pack is aprox. 20lbs added weight and very much worth it for the noise reduction it offers.