NO, just sealed the voids. Area in the car is the box. Top just sits in, not total air tight yet.

Ya you should really build a box I can see when you upgrade your subs where the box or board will just jump.

:iagree:

What about "Poineer"

PIONEER 10IN CHAMPION COMPONT SUB 10 1 100-WATT SERIES COMPONENT SUBWOOFER New | eBay

SPL VS Power look very good and the price is also right. Thoughts? I would spent the money for JL but SPL is so low I would need a larger amp to get the the correct levels. I need to stay above 90db at 1 watt at 1 meter to work. Also the subs in the car right now sound very good. If I go not have a fail I will just run them. Thanks for all the input. Pokeyl

Found a replacement sub JBL P1022


http://www.the370z.com/members/pokey...cement-sub.jpg

did you build an enclosure yet, or still using open cab as a box? you will get better response if its boxed. also, any probs with amps overheating sitting under there? doesn't look like much space for them to breathe.

Still working on the enclosure, may seal it. Amp has never had problems yet.

Just started fitting, had to add a 4 inch spacer at the front of the head board. Still Running IB, sound is very wide band, I can now turn off all lows to the front speakers. I still need to cut a new header board (better fit) and carpet it.


http://www.the370z.com/members/pokey...7-new-subs.jpg

Infinite baffle by definition requires that the front wave of the woofer be completely sealed off from the rear of the woofer. Not to mention they generally utilize larger volumes of air behind the woofer to make them able to extend well below 20hz. In you current situation you would get much better overall performance from you subs if you were to build an enclosure in that area than trying to force an in install into that area. Not to mention with that small volume of air if you manage to seal the woofers off you doing to end up with a fairly low qtc which will essentially yield you a sealed enclosure