Choosing an amplifier
 

So I have a a JL 13TW5-3. And I think I can do better then my current amp.

I am looking two amps right now, feel free to suggest what you think is best.
Alpine PDX M6
JL Audio HD750/1

:tiphat:

I have a massive audio N4 running at 2.6 ohms pushing my 3 Alpine 8inch Type R's. My subs are seeing close to 1000 watts and the amp barely gets warm. If I'm not mistaken, that's probably the same amount of power you want to send to your JL sub to wake it up.

I just switched from a JL HD/900 and wasn't all that impressed. Plus, it seemed to heat up a lot quicker than the N4. Lastly the massive amps have a small foot print and cost less. You may want to give them a look:

Massive Audio*::*Amplifiers*::*N4 - Mono Block Amplifier

1000W@2ohms RMS
On JL's webpage its telling anything over 600W RMS can blow it.
I bet you know more them me on audio things but I'm a bit hesitant.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/images/14461.jpg

Just use your gain knob and adjust it down plus you will never see 1000 unless your head unit is at full tilt with the amp at full gain. "depending on the amp as well"

I prefer the alpine amps. Great bang for the buck, my vote goes for the pdx.

I have a JL HD900 amplifier driving my 13TW5 at 500 watts RMS and it rocks! Make sure your enclosure is sealed VERY well. The slightest air leak will dramatically reduce output and sound quality. When I first got it, It was ok but not what I was hoping for. I took my box out and I was inspecting the driver and pushing on it and I could hear air excaping. I sealed inside and all of the outside edges and seams with fiberglass. Back together and cone test. Ahh Sealed! I started playing it and I was floored! Not only was the bass crushingly low but the sub was crisp and tight. It sounded great! I am now adding some more insulation behind the panels and area around the box.

Long story short - 500W will do the job. I would not push this sub much past that, especially a JL HD amp. Any more power would simply exceed its mechanical limits.

This sub is very loud! and it kicks like a mule!

I find that JL AUDIO XD600/1 is a perfect match for the 13tw5.

The reason I suggested an amp the pushes 1000w is that it gives you headroom. As the previous poster stated, you can turn the gain down on the amp so that you don't over power the sub. In addition, that additional headroom equals less strain on the electrical system (because your not maxing out the power of the amp), decreases the heat generated by the amp and gives you the option to expand your system should you feel the need to in the future.

Headroom in an amp is like horsepower in a car, you can never have enough :ughdance:

Correct

If you do go Alpine, go with the M12. I believe you would not be disappointed......

Everyone just loves JL Audio. Hell, I had a full JL system (subs/amps and components) in my car before my new setup. I will agree that JL produces good subs and amps. However, JL is a bit overpriced. In my opinion, they're are many other choices to be considered that could meet or exceed JL's offerings at a considerably lesser price point.

Just my humble opinion.....

I do not like JL simply for the fact of how they come off as thinking they are the best out there because of how much they charge for their products. I mean even their stealth boxes are insanely over priced.

I bet your setups sounds awesome! Congrats! :tiphat:

However, I guarantee that your sub is not seeing 500 watts. It's maybe seeing 350 watts, tops. You have to remember that there are 4 additional channels being driven within the HD900. That has an impact on the amps ability to drive the sub channel. Also, as bigaudiofanat has stated, you'd have to adjust the gain on the amp and head unit to full tilt just to see that amount of power. At that point, the sound would more than likely distort and you'd probably end up damaging your speakers.

Like I said, I had the same amp as you. It was pushing JL separates (tweeters/mid bass) and two JL 8w3's in a sealed enclosure. Everything was processed through my Audison bit one. On many occasions, the amp would become exhausted and loose its musicality which resulted in a degradation of sound. If you play your music at reference levels (I believe most of us do), you will exhaust the power reserves of the HD900. That was my experience; however yours seems to be different.

To the OP - Per your post, you’re trying to decide between the Alpine M6 and the JL HD750. If you want to save some cash, go with the Alpine. I think that’s a smart move and is a good amp. By the way, what are you using to drive your front speakers?

I agree with you wholeheartedly. Plus their gear is made in China next to everyone else's gear. So why are they charging more :confused:

You guys talk of Gain like a volume adjustment.

Gain is there to level match your head unit to the input of your amplifier.

JL in this instance will give you a specific Voltage adjustments to set up with their amplifiers.

As for power ratings JL HD series will give you the output they say they will. They are in fact very conservative with their ratings. So if it says 500 Watts you are getting that and more.

When they engineer their amplifiers they go through extended engineerng in US and very tight tolerances of manufacturing... Are there amps better ya I am sure... But they propably cost just as much if they were the same quality and offered apples to apples.

At the end of the day JL AUDIO like all other brands can be had for a lot less then retail, it is a fact and part of doing business in car audio today... And for a piece of mind when you buy JL AUDIO you know it is going to perform and you are not taking any chances.

BTW

I have some Older Series one Slash series used amps for a great deal if anyone is interested... :tiphat:

I agree with all of your points except regarding the power output of the HD900. Also while adjusting gain is essential with matching the voltage of the head unit, it does impact the overall volume of your system. So there is a relation.

Now about the HD900

The only way you'd get 500 watts is if you were to max out the source volume. Even then, with all 5 channels driven, the amp would have an issue producing that rating to the sub channel. In addition, the musicality of the amp will suffer. Lastly, the amp will become exhausted fairly quickly and go into protect mode. In the case of the HD, this means the amp will throttle back the volume until it cools down. That sucks!

Remember, I've had this amp and have experienced this issue. That's why I went with a multi-amp setup. Even my installer (who is one of the best in the country and a JL fanboi) advised that I stay away from the HD900 because of this very issue. As for the other HD amps, its good gear but just overpriced.

Again, I believe at the end of the day, having headroom is the key. If your sub can handle 500 watts, look for an amp that's rated close to 1000 watts. That way you know your getting 500 watts without straining your electrical system or the amplifier....:tup:

I completely agree with that statement but here is where that school of thought goes very wrong.

I am not excluding myself in this pitfall;

You get used to your system and then after a while it just doesnt seem as loud. It exactly the same as getting used to the power of your car, you want more power so you mod it. Then you then start tweaking and playing with your system and before you know it your pushing the limits of your equipment.

Simply stated, It is purely human nature to want more. and especially more for less, or better yet, free!

Thats why I am more on the conservative side of the fence.

Not to thread jack but what's a good alternative to the HD900.5??? I'm looking to push Focal VR165 components and a 12" sub....

Budget?

No more than $700...

WoofersEtc.com - PDX-5 - Alpine 5 Ch 600 Watt Digital Power Amplifier PDX5

WoofersEtc.com - PA1100.5 - Polk Audio 5 Ch 600 Watt Amplifier

If you are not running rear speakers you could get away with a 4 channel as long as it can run in 3 channel mode or a 3 channel amp.

I have a Alpine pdx 1.1000 driving the same sub and its more than enough.

OK, where did you come up with that hypothesis? The HD900 has its own dedicated power supply for the sub channel that is isolated from the other main channels. Also the amp gain is NOT a volume knob and has no correlation to power output. the gain is simply for balancing your line level from your source "headunit" to the amplifier. Any other use of the amplifier gain will only introduce distortion into your system which is why I think the HD900 amp didnt work well for you.

Rest assured that JL Audio amp was designed to run 900 watts rms within grueling tolerances at a bare minimum otherwise they would not put thier reputation on the line for thier flag ship car audio amplifier. If not, there would be a classaction lawsuit against them.

Call me or pm me. I can hook you up with the HD900/5


For those having a problem with HD900/5, it is possible you do have your gain too high and running th eamplifier at a clipping point..

That will give you the impression you have more olume but at a cost of distortion.

Someone compared headroom to horsepower...
While I agree some overpower is good I would have to say overkill is bad.
If you have a 1000 RWHP car it is not as practical as an everyday driver at 500 RWHP.
Question is if you can buy the 1000 HP for the same price as the 500 HP car... Well I would say the answer is in the components that was used to assemble the motor (just like an amp).
Reputation of the company. Their history on rating their power levels compared to others.

And biggest question is do you have the supporting good and will power to keep it off the throttle (just like the gain control)

If anyone in this forum needs a JL AUDIO Component please PM me.
As a forum sponsor and Vendor I will make sure you ar all happy.