370Z #2 basic upgrade! AMAZING SQ
 

Ok guys got another 370z in yesterday and only had 1 day to replace the front speakers add rear speakers and install 4 ch amp. Customer stated that he didnt want to add a sub or change the radio but wanted improve the SQ of the car and retain his stock appearance. So this is what I did:


Front Speakers: HERTZ HSK165.5 6.5" 2 way Component Set 50hz-22k
Rear Speakers: HERTZ HL70 3" mids 200hz-14K
Amp: AUDISON SRX-4 4ch amp rated @ 65x4 actual power 80x4 (TESTED)
OEM interface: Peripheral SVEN4*
Wiring: Stinger HPM
Sound Dampening: DYNAMAT EXTEREME 10435 Door kit & 10425 Speaker kit

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THIS CAR WAS ABSOLUTELY AMAZING! BOSE CANT TOUCH IT! And for those who ask me about price this system was roughly $2000 installed.


* the base model 370Z's that dont come with rear speakers arent wired for rear speakers! There are no wires coming out of the factory harness for them either! I had to add a 70-7552 & 71-7552 and create a Y-adaptor and add wires to the harness in order to maintain all the stock features. Please make sure if you DIY you look closely at the wiring before you start! ENJOY Guys!

Thanks a lot for the write up. As I see you are located about 2 hours from me maybe I'll have to stop by on my way to Forged Performance sometime.

You know you are going to force me to drive to Atlanta to have my car done with all this expert work and 370Z experience you have going!!! :tup:

John

The guys at FORGED are amazing! My buddy Phil from NJ comes all the way down to ATL to let them tune his G35.

Let me know when your ready!

Jeff, thanks for the pics, it really helps the DIY guys. Can you offer any tips on removing the kick covers and the rear speaker covers?

The kick panels are easy as pie! You need a panel removal tool to help with all the plastic clips. Remove the door sill plastic first then the kick panel is held in by 2 plastic clips and a single plastic nut of the fire wall. As for the rear speakers.........DUDE good luck! Here is how you do it:

1. Remove the door sills.
2. Remove the top of the sturt tower bar plastic in each corner.
3. The rear hatch plastic panels then the rear speaker covers can be removed!

Nice install, Jeff! I have a pair of tweeters from the Diamond HEX S600s components. Did you fabricate a custom bracket to mount the tweeter?

I'm not sure what the approach is, but I do have 1/4" thick acrylic panel that can be cut to match the original tweeter cutout.

I'm also thinking about squeezing the crossover in the kick panel area as well... if it fits. I don't plan to use factory wiring for the speakers as well.

All Hertz tweets come with a mounting ring that will fit up to a 3" hole! I love them! The passives should fit, I always try to run new wire if I can or the customer pays for it!

FYI: These guys are conveniently located across the street from FORGED Performance shop! You can visit and kill two birds!! :driving:

This is TRUE!!

Hey Jeff. I was thinking about putting two amps in the location that you put the 4 channel amp. Do you know if there is any air ventilation problems at that location?

No issues, there is plenty of room in there! Go for it!

Philthy?

OP, great job on the build. It's kinda got me interested in doing one myself. :tup:

Hey Jeff real quick, did the stock head unit have signal outputs i wouldn't think so.....

The back of the radio has pins for output to the rear but the harness doesnt have the wiring coming out of it!

Yep! Philthy is my good friend! I've know him for years! Competed with and against him for years on the IASCA SQ circuit!

Jeff, how difficult was this install of removing all the paneling and such? Looking to upgrade my head unit and speakers but I just worry about breaking or not being able to remove something properly. Once the panels and such are off, it is easy for me, but just worry about the possible damages to the car.

The radio isnt too hard start with the silver trim around the gear shifter then the leather trim under that and the rest of the panels require you to remove screws to pull them off! The doors are easy. The rocker panels & kicks are easy but the back sides for rear speakers are a pain in the a$$!

Jeff, Can you write a quick step by step on how to remove the rear panels for the rear speakers?
Thanks,
Willie

download the service manual its in there... and it helped me alot... the only thing that i would give warning to is the very back panel... if you do not used something to pop up the trim you will crack the panel.

There was one thing i could find Jeff and was hoping you could help figure out. So when i was removing my head unit the big piece of trim with the vents, starter button and air bag connection. I was able to unplug the harness for the air bag quite easily but was not able to get the one off for the starter. Do you know how this comes off. It would allow me to get the big panel completely off and much easier to put things in. Everything else was really easy to take off.

Thanks

Jeff,

Where are you running the door speaker wire to get inside the cabin to the crossover? From your pictures, I don't see anything wiring from the door to the cabin. Did you manage to get the wire into the rubber sleeve from the door to inside the cabin? Thanks.

The pictures do not show... but I am pretty sure he ran it like the first z that he did. If you go to that thread "our first 370z" or something like that there are pictures where he went through the rubber sleave. I had a little bit of problems with this but after talking to him about it, it wasn't to hard. You have drill out a hole in the harness to get the wire through. To pop off the harness there is a lever that needs to be pushed all the way down... my problem was that it was only going about 3/4 down. It helps it you close the door slightly. This allows for the lever to go down but gives you less room for your had to get back there. Hope that helps.

Jeff,

Did you just hook up the front L/R output from the head unit directly to the amp, or did you have to 'filter down' the signal (with another gizmo) before the hookup to the amp?

My understanding is that as the signal is already amplified by the factory H/U, I should buy a new h/u so I have a 'clean' unamplified signal feed from the h/u to the amp.

Thanks.



P.S.,

I just bought the Dynaudio components, a Precision Power DCX1000.4 amp but I am still waiting for the right H/U. I do not actually mind keeping the basic factory h/u.

Yes I used a line output converter from peripheral electronics called a SVEN4. Its the best LOC on the market IMO!

Jeff,

I'm not clear about how the 6.5" driver was mounted. Did it require an adapter?

Thanks!

-Phuong

Jeff that is an amazing installation. I go to Atlanta to visit family during the Christmas Holiday but I do not think I can wait till December for the first stage of audio improvements.

Do you know of any shop in the Miami or Fort Lauderdale area that does a reasonably good job? I have a base 370Z and for the first stage I would like to replace the speakers I have on the doors and the dash. Ideally I am looking for not only a better sound but also for more efficient speakers. This to see if I could get by w/o having to install an amp (save some money).

Thanks for your help.

I use to have the same amp I loved it to death. I sold it now getting the Lrx 5.1k!!!