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8" Subwoofer box WITH spare tire
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I'm upgrading my stock system with 6.5 components, amp and a subwoofer. I figure 8" is plenty for this car and my music preference. I wanted to keep the spare tire, so I looked for a sub with minimum box volume requirements. The 8" JL W6 only needs .375 cubic feet, so I fashioned a round box that fits down in the spare tire. It's 15" in diameter by 4.5" or so tall. I used a round tub I found at Lowes for a vessel to set dimensions for the fiberglass sides, the top and bottom are 5/8" MDF. I used epoxy resin with two thicknesses of mat and cloth. Epoxy resin is expensive, but it's strong and doesn't have that resin smell of the others. The carpet can go over the top, but I may cut it out and put a grill on it. Still working on the rest, hopefully it will be installed in two weeks.
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John |
Great job. this is a perfect solution for members who do not want to get rid of their spare (like me :o). We def want to see a DIY for this.(oh and also the plastic tub item no :icon17:)
Good luck with the great project! :tup: |
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John |
Yes, the top of the fiberglass circular tub/box is about 14.75" inside diameter, the MDF top circle is 20". You could run either one. Check the cubic inches recommended for the enclosure, every inch of 15" diameter is 176 cubic inches. (There's 1728 cubic inches in a cubic foot.) 15" is the largest diameter that fits down in the spare on top of the hold-down nut of the tire, you could go smaller diameter if you need to. If you needed more cubes you could go another inch or so higher without crowding your trunk. Remember to subtract the volume of the subwoofer itself.
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Hot. Good job mate. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/images.../happy0180.gif
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Nice idea. But since the JL sub is no longer being made I'd recommend either the Pioneer or Kenwood shallow 8' sub. I'd like to try this
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John |
I love the JL flat sub but there isnt enough air space for it to fit into the spare tire and sound it's best. Thats all.
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Are you going to try to incorporate the tire clamp (the large round plastic cover with the threaded bolt embedded in it to hold-down the spare)? On the Bose supplied system the bolt is simply longer and fastens down the sub and spare tire. I love the ingenuity here, and hope it makes it the DIYer section.
Ingenuity = Rep Point :tup: |
Dude That's awesome... I have the same exact sub I'm in Alaska right now but when I get home it's on
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The 10" states it can work in a .35 sealed box. John |
SoCal-- I considered using the spare threaded hold-down to fasten the box, but then I'd have to unscrew the subwoofer to get to the hold-down to remove the spare tire. I plan on hooking the box to the rear sheet metal so it doesn't come flying in an accident.
JL has other 8" subs (as do others) if you can't get the cubic space you need for a flat 10 or 12" version. I believe the flats require more power, also. |
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You could spin it, as long as you could disconnect the wiring.
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great job. Cant wait to see the final product.
Chris |
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Ok your correct that the pioneer specs say that it will wk in .35-.7 cu ft of air space but that's only after you take out for .06 for the woofers displacement inside the box. Which means you need at least .41 before you put the sub in. I sell and install these subs at work and the best box for the 10" is .66 which is what pioneer recommends. In the .35 box it's we call high bass. It makes a sound like boink (85hz) peak instead of boom (50hz peak) in a car. The older JL 8W6 is a waaaay more forgiving sub that the pioneer in smaller boxes. |
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John |
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John |
Would it be any trouble to see anymore pics of you project. I would be very interested in seeing them.
~s |
bump
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How's this project going?
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How are you keeping the spare bolted in - else, won't it rattle/slide around?
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Looks great, can't wait to see the finished product
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