Suggestions needed for Subwoofer Upgrade
 

I have a 2010 370Z roadster with Nav. I want to add more bass, mainly cause the Bose Subwoofer lacks, um, BASs! Any suggestions on a way to get a better subwoofer connected to the Nav system? Can I take the speaker level connection convert it to line level and add a powered sub?

Please search next time but this has been asked plenty of times.

Use a mtx re-q just the single not the 5 and tap that into the sub speaker outputs run power to it and install your new amp and sub, I recommend a 12 inch sub because convertibles are hard to keep bass in. Look at image dynamics 12 q or a Rockford fosgate punch stage 3. Look for a amp that will give you 800 watts RMS or even a 1000 watt amp and just turn the gain down.

I do not think the z enclosure will work in your car so that kind of hurts your ease of install.

Actually when connecting the RE-Q you need to not only pick-up the sub but also a full range speaker for the restoration process to work in the RE-Q.

I would not recommend a Zenclosure for anyone now that I have one, build a custom enclosure you will be glad you did.

Your not running a full signal for a sub and they work with just low input. I have done it before others have done it and even in the instructions it says it can be given full or bass input.

Your the only one I have heard complain about build quality of their boxes. Plus as I said they probably will not work in the convertible.

bigaudiofanat & Juleous,

You guys disagree more than you agree,I can count on reading one of your posts and scrolling down to see the other say the exact opposite.

Remember guys play nice:roflpuke2:

I understand and understand to agree to disagree but there is that and attacking someones opinion because you think it is wrong. I have no problem agreeing with some things but when the other person continues to target you rather than the conversation at hand that is a different story.

I know I think he has been a little harsh,I came in this section to refresh my skills and end up lmao.:icon17:

Actually sort of, the restoration process of the RE-Q requires full range input to accurately re-create the signal. You may not be utilizing the full range output of the Re-Q but you sure do need it to get the best performance from the Re-Q.

Not my fault Matt keeps pedaling wrong info.

I very rarely state an opinion everything I say is facts that you can verify, the only reason you don't like it cause I point out the odvious. You like to chime in on every audio thread cause you think your the expert, if you state a wrong fact then I am going to correct you.

If I have used the req in other cars and give correct info even when the instructions even say the same thing about configuring and calibration that I am saying. I am going to correct you. You and your comments like "Not my fault Matt keeps pedaling wrong info" Is attacking me as a person and is against the forums rules and you have been pointed out before. I know that the re-q works as I stated and so I am going to recommend it. I chime in on threads because I know what I am talking about,

Against forum rules.

Really? Now thats a case of the pot calling the kettle black! You're the one who chimes in on every thread. About two weeks ago I was laughing at loud at you because you were the last person to post of the 5-6 most recent threads!

Man I love this thread.:ughdance:

Well, there are a whole lot more of those threads in here lol.

I hate to say it, but the reQ will work in this case with just the sub in put, however, if you are taping into just the sub channel and adding just a sub, you can get away with out a reQ, just get a decent amp with high level in puts, or a GOOD LOC, the single is already prosesed to do what you need. If you had no sub channel then you would need to have all the in puts on the ReQ hooked up.