Planned Install Take a Look
 

And here is another what do you think about my build thread, sorry but here it goes fairly simple me thinks.

I have put some big thought into upgrading the blows system.

System will be based on a Kenwood DNX 7140, with the three scosche harness adapters, wire harness, antenna, steering wheel adptr. Kenwood CMOS 200 Camera. Plus Sirius Sat setup do I need the full kit or just a couple of pieces?

Zenclosure 2-10" with 2 Alpine SWR1043D Subs
Alpine SPX-17REF components upfront
Alpine PDX-5 Amp

I am going to do the install myself, I have done plenty in past cars and watching all the tutorials I have decided I will do it myself. Apart from the usual wire and interconnects should I change anything up or add anything.

The PDX-5 I will mount behind the drivers seat like Matt did, the Alpine looks great back there.

Matt should I bridge the 4 into 2 channels for the fronts, run the two subs at 2ohms on the mono channel? And then add some rear fill off the deck amp later if I want too?

Thanks for all your advice!

Edit: forgot about full dynamat treatment of course, looking forward to road noise reduction.

Well I can tell you everyone will disagree with the 2 x 10" subs.
I asked the same question in a thread, and the general agreement was a single 12"

Yea well I am a bit of a base head. I used to have two twelves in a RX-7 powerd by a hifonics amp if that tells you anything.

Plus you can always turn the subs down if you want, alot harder to add more when you want it.

As trooper will later tell you I had to turn his gain down on his amp because one rockford fosgate punch stage 3 was rattling his and mine ears in his z. One 12 is PLENTY for the z. Also a pdx 5 is going to struggle to push two 10's as aposed to one 12 IMO. Other than that looks like a good setup.

:iagree:

As I said, I posted the same thread asking the same thing.
I really liked the cosmetic look of 2 x 10s, but after some good advice, yes the 12 is MORE than enough.

I don't think Matt and I could sit in the car at anything near half volume LOL,
my setup is freakin loud ;)

Plus you'll save money on the 12, instead of buying 2 x 10's, and the amp required to drive them.

Did not notice the 4ohm DVC of the 1043, don't think the mono part of the amp is 1ohm stable? Looks like I will need a different sub to get the proper load on the amp. I really like the PDX-5 it fit's right where I want to put it, under the sub does not look like a good place for a highpower amp. There must be zero airflow under there.

Matt when you placed the amp behind the seat did you leave it low on purpose? The wiring would have been cleaner IMO if they came tight under the bar into the amp, the RCA's would have stuck up a little high maybe? Also what did you use to secure the amp to the plastic panel? Would you secure it differently if you did it again?

Can't say I have ever run a dual voice coil in series then in parallel with the other sub, this could work to get the 2ohm load on the amp if I used the 1023 instead but not sure if this is a bad idea never done it before. Matt?

The amp was secured using the 4 screws that is comes with and goes right threw the plastic panel I did this a year ago in California and I did it 4 weeks ago in the nismo I did no problems.

The pdx is not 1 ohm stable nor as I said that is is not really going to push two 10's hard like you are saying "bass happy". You would need something like a 800 watt amp to really push two subs of any rating as hard as you want.

all the sub wiring diagram can be found here. As long as your final load is 2 ohms or up you are fine. Just keep in mind that if a amp is putting out 400 watts and your pushing 2 subs that they are only going to get 200 watts each at full volume and full gain and probably more like 140 at normal listening volumes.

Car Alarm, Car Stereo, Mobile Video, and Cruise Control Info for Installers click on sub wiring diagrams.

Only if I run the two subs parallel together, if I parallel the two 2ohm voice coils and then series the two 1 ohm subs together then I get full power through both subs, only then the wattage gets split across each voice coil.

Remember power in a series circuit must all flow from the source through all series loads back to the source, where in a parallel circuit the individual parallel load will receive half of the total power like you said. Gots to love the DVC wiring options.

Hu either way you wire two subs you sharing the output voltage that a amp puts out. If you are running two subs you sharing the voltage even at one ohms. Not to mention the pdx 5 can't do one ohms.

Edit: not gonna play this game, thanks for your info.

Ok no problem.

I will take your advice and do a PDX F4 and a PDX M6 instead, should power the 1023's nicely. How about the airflow under the sub location? You think it would be ok to locate both of these amps under there?

Should be fine under the seats they run cool.

nice man i have had two rx7s haha but i only had one 12 in one...but yea i love base so i hav the z enclosures 2 10" upfire and i love it although i would love to get some dynomat in there

also i recommend going with the comp vr kickers if you really wanna get a lot of base because they respond really well even if you dont have the biggest amp...and they werent too pricey

:iagree:

I always find myself wanting more bass than what I have ... and correct me if I am wrong the boxes use the same space in he car so I dont know why you would just go with the one.

But that just me !

Exactly I remember when I had the two 12" in my RX-7 I was planning on two 15" until I sold the car.

If your a bass head go 2 10" you will be glad you did when you pull up next to the guy with the 1 12"

BASS WARS!:ughdance:

I also use to have earplugs so I could FEEL THE BASS

Changed the system design as suggested by Matt.

Zenclosure with 2 10" Alpine SWR 1023D
Powerd by a Alpine PDX M6
MTX RE-Q5
JL Dual Amp wire kit
Dynamat the back end

My plan is to do this system in stages, my biggest complaint about the blose is the lack of low end power. This upgrade should do the trick till I can assemble all the rest of the components HU, fronts, amp etc.

I really want the Bass now, I also want all top end components with the works so I will wait till I have them all to pull apart the doors and front end. Do the sub upgrade now so I can atleast live with the Bose crap, probably end up blowing it in the process but oh well it's blows.

I am pricing it at $1000CAD out the door for everything and a weekend should be plenty of time to get it done. This upgrade will be very easy to do for most anyone, cost effective and I will post pics of the job.

Looks good just remember that the amp is not going to put out that RMS all the time only if the gain is maxed out and your head unit is at full volume which will never happen without distortion. So after you set your gain and all your looking at more like 180 watts per sub.

You saying I should use a PDX-M12? Now isn't that getting way ridiculous? 2 10" subs is going to be huge in a little car like that as it is, push 1200watts to em would be crazy. BUT I LIKE IT!

What do think the max wattage you could put in Z before you need to upgrade the alternator?

I think you can safely run a 900 watt rms amp and a 90 x 4 amp with no trouble in the z. I still have not read what the stock alt does but should do more than what none puts out.

Just to clarify, I don't think that everyone is against dual subs in a Z. In your case with your budget of $500, I think most people agreed you would get your best value with one good amp and one good sub.

Now if your budget was a bit higher, you could get an even better amp and dual 10" or 12" (or four 8"s if you are a bit of a rocker!) and it would sound great, just depends on how you like your base.

It really comes down to what you like and what you are willing to spend.

500$ budget I never said that, I like most bang for the buck product and I strongly feel the two 10" Alpine type R subs in a Z enclosure with a Alpine PDX M-6 amp is the best bang for your buck in a Z right now. If I was working on a tight budget I would be talking Kicker level stuff not higher end Alpine.

My plan is to put in all top quality components but not break the bank in the process, so I am going to split the install up into 3 stages.